And I learned, after I posted the price of summits p/n of their 285 greatest cam and price, $118 . A few days later Summit rises the price to $178...mmm ,what's that tell you? People out there took the info and started buying them all up. Sincerely Jesse
Internally Balance Cast Crank?
- Thread starter 65 Dartman
- Start date
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James Clews
Well-Known Member
Back in the early seventies my brother had a nice Aussie VC Valiant with 273and he added a edelbrock LD4B manifold, Holley carb and headers and it ran great for a few years.
After a few years he broke a crankshaft. He then put a 1968 hi comp 318 in it with just the for mentioned add ons.
Man that thing was quick. He used to run GT Falcon 351s and regularly knock them off!
As the thing had a standard cam in it and would idle like a std car, when he would line up next to the GT Falcon 4 speed manual his std looking and sounding Valiant would get Jeers but silenced a lot of people after they saw how it ran.
Now back to the 273. That would of had a forged crank in it so it must of been highly unusual to break one of those.
After a few years he broke a crankshaft. He then put a 1968 hi comp 318 in it with just the for mentioned add ons.
Man that thing was quick. He used to run GT Falcon 351s and regularly knock them off!
As the thing had a standard cam in it and would idle like a std car, when he would line up next to the GT Falcon 4 speed manual his std looking and sounding Valiant would get Jeers but silenced a lot of people after they saw how it ran.
Now back to the 273. That would of had a forged crank in it so it must of been highly unusual to break one of those.
Strange, the above reply shut everyone up.
Strange, not getting a negtiive response on the above statement. I must of got it right
Got it AJ, but I was thinking about Scats internally balanced cast crank , there 318/340 journal size with there stroke of 3.58" . Sorry I didn't make my self clear.
Hey do yourself a big favor and get any combination balanced. I have seen your comments about this subject in other threads and the only way to do it right is to get the components balanced when ever you change anything. Got it? If you want to throw it together in your barn with what ever and however then go for it but don't waste our time with questions.
Why don't you do something constructive, like call a machine shop and talk to main machinist, ask him the width and depth of the holes he drill in the counter balancers and which ones, for an internally balanced cast crank, like Scats 340/3.58" throw and provide him with my forged piston weight icons 741 360 piston .070 over with pin wt and my 715gr H rods....and post me an honest answer.
Call a macine shop? Yes, that's exactly what you should do.
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
do you have any idea just how many veteran machinist are on this website and have responded to your questions only to have you respond thay dont know or should be more open minded???? any idea how many veteran engine builders on here??? its great to see your enthusiasm and try to think outside the box but machine work is very very exacting and highly skilled work! and short cuts that work are bout non insistent! this stuff cost to much to start with, cost alot more to redo the 2nd time! like she said, slow down, take your time, and do it right!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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It seems to me that you're trying to re-invent the wheel, but from the position of not knowing what a wheel looks like, nor having the equipment to build it..
I have seen engines that shook badly from idle to cruise-rpm, then smoothed out some at rpm . Eventually, something breaks, and not always in the engine either.
And
then there is my professionally balanced engine, that is smooth as glass, and revs effortlessly to past 7200...... so much so that I had to install a rev-limiter, cuz, as a streeter, I can't both drive and watch the tach at the same time. Mine is a 4-speed, and she whams thru gears pretty rapidly. and, this engine now has over 100,000 miles on it, and is still a strong runner.
I imagine you can build your engine any way that you want to, but when you gotta put new rod-bearings in it every winter, that should send up a redflag, like, right away.
If you don't want to balance the assy, just buy a pre-balanced kit.
Or better yet, pick up the phone and call a vendor for a drop-in with a warranty. Let the guys with the equipment make your parts play nice together.
Then, you can have the pleasure of installing the bolt-ons, knowing the engine is gonna drive for many many years; or at least has the potential to.
BTW-1
my pistons are cast hypers circa 1999, the bushed rods came out of a late 60s 318, the factory flywheel is off a 1970 340, and the harmonic balancer is off a 71 360, which also donated it's block and cast crank. Jus saying. When I sent the parts out for balancing, I never even asked beforehand, what it would cost. It had to be done, so the cost was whatever. I've never been sorry.
BTW-2
The missed-shift event that precipitated the buying/installing of a rev limiter, was when I saw the tach needle crossing the 8000 line, coming down. That was some 18/20 years ago, and the engine never missed a beat. Somewhat ironically, I rebuilt the shifter and have never missed another shift with that shifter.
I have seen engines that shook badly from idle to cruise-rpm, then smoothed out some at rpm . Eventually, something breaks, and not always in the engine either.
And
then there is my professionally balanced engine, that is smooth as glass, and revs effortlessly to past 7200...... so much so that I had to install a rev-limiter, cuz, as a streeter, I can't both drive and watch the tach at the same time. Mine is a 4-speed, and she whams thru gears pretty rapidly. and, this engine now has over 100,000 miles on it, and is still a strong runner.
I imagine you can build your engine any way that you want to, but when you gotta put new rod-bearings in it every winter, that should send up a redflag, like, right away.
If you don't want to balance the assy, just buy a pre-balanced kit.
Or better yet, pick up the phone and call a vendor for a drop-in with a warranty. Let the guys with the equipment make your parts play nice together.
Then, you can have the pleasure of installing the bolt-ons, knowing the engine is gonna drive for many many years; or at least has the potential to.
BTW-1
my pistons are cast hypers circa 1999, the bushed rods came out of a late 60s 318, the factory flywheel is off a 1970 340, and the harmonic balancer is off a 71 360, which also donated it's block and cast crank. Jus saying. When I sent the parts out for balancing, I never even asked beforehand, what it would cost. It had to be done, so the cost was whatever. I've never been sorry.
BTW-2
The missed-shift event that precipitated the buying/installing of a rev limiter, was when I saw the tach needle crossing the 8000 line, coming down. That was some 18/20 years ago, and the engine never missed a beat. Somewhat ironically, I rebuilt the shifter and have never missed another shift with that shifter.
Ironracer
Gearhead
The 73 340 Block, in my 74 Duster, has a forged Crank. Doubt it left the Factory that way, but it DEFINITELY has A Forged Unit. I picked up the short block, ready to roll, from a Mopar Man with a 10 second street dart. Ex Army Helo Mech. When I called him and mentioned I pulled the Solid Cam out, he Screamed " What the Hell did you do to my motor? It's a Small Block Dammit!" He had his own shop as a Business also...
mygasser
Well-Known Member
guess they're all fed up giving you the same answers that you won't listen to. keep asking, that won't change
mygasser
Well-Known Member
Ok I will do the balance . Will I need need much removed from a 4" forged crank in a 360 if I use heavy old trw L2405f pistons? Will these old pistons clear the crank?
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
whats the compression height? 4 inch crank gonna want something like 1.45ish where a 3.58 wants a 1.65ish or youll have a positive deck height, witch is ok long as rings stay in block and useing open chamber heads....
Just as a side note, I asked a machinist about the scat 9000 series cast crank and he said, those crank always require heavy metal added.
Thx dirty WB I got a set of 302 castings with open chambers and 2.02" valves added. I will keep an I on the compression height.
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
302s are closed chamber 318 heads, lotta love, lotta hate for them, then theres 308 360 heads thats real hood heads thats open chambers!
I rarely post anything on this site, but for anyone looking for the cutoff date for 340 forged vs cast crankshaft, it is in this TSB. Most of the 1972 model year had forged crankshafts as described in this bulletin up to April 11,1972. The engines from April 11 thru probably July 1972 had cast cranks. I didnt work for Chrysler but did for GM. That’s typically the time frame in those years for model changeover.
I have a 1972 built in March 72 and it has a forged crank.
I have a 1972 built in March 72 and it has a forged crank.
Alright, I will double check the casting # when I get home....I remember they are 30 ...something with good flowing exhausts. Pss. Someone needs to fix the post reply button on this software.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
it works for everyone else, it must be you 
Could be this piece of s...t phone of mineit works for everyone else, it must be you
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