Is a 66 440 block any good?

[Dart Sport 360]

As a base to build a 505 stroker?

It's cheap but needs to be worked over. I was told the 74 to 78 blocks are the strongest.

A new block is another option but depends on $$

 

[Sedanman]

They used to claim the pre 72 blocks had more nickle in them and more desireable. This is a new age with new rumors

 

[1968dartman]

nope no good at all. Give me your address am I will pick it up and dispose of it!!

 

[451Cuda]

As a base to build a 505 stroker? It's cheap but needs to be worked over. I was told the 74 to 78 blocks are the strongest. A new block is another option but depends on $$

'69 and later blocks have the reinforcing ribs around the freeze plug area. In theory it should make it stronger, but whether it really does I have no idea. In my mind a 440 is a 440 is a 440. Any production block will be fine unless you're going for some max effort race piece - then you definitely want an aftermarket block.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I never will understand why people say any block is better than the other. Total stupidity. Where one year model maybe better on one area, it's weaker in another. Splittin hairs and made up mythology at its finest. Just pick one and go. Yes, the 66 440 will be fine.

If you really want the truth, the later blocks are probably a tad better because of the progress made with the casting process. As the years went by, the factories improved upon the castings as to decrease any core shift, but again, splittin hairs.

 

[Dart Sport 360]

Thanks, I pretty much thought the older the better but I was told otherwise buy Kim at 440 source. Who knows. This one looks like it's been in a lake for a while so it may be too far gone. Probably worth a look since it's in my town.

 

[whitepunkonnitro]

The 76-78 (79 for truck) blocks use the same main saddle casting as the 1970-up Hemi block. For a stroker, this is a pretty significant thing.
As for the 66, nothing wrong with using it, but check the outside of the block along the bottom of the water jacket areas for cracks...seem to be a bit more common with the 66's than the later castings.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah, but any differences in strength can be easily made up by using a main girdle.....but still splittin hair, IMO.

 

[moper]

Have it checked fo cracks if it sat out abbove the Mason Dixon Line... Then have it airless shotted to get rid of the rust, then sonic test it, then decide. IMO, the early blocks are less precisely cast but just as good. The strength will be in the bores, or it won't be. The main saddles will either last for a while, or they won't. I've got a few RB 505s making 550+ with nothing more than top quality balancing, top quality machining, and main studs.

 

[the67fish]

The water jackets are the MAIN difference, I would prefer the older blocks but with a good machine shop the difference is tiny, now if your gonna O-ring it and go blown alky or nitro then.....older for sure LOL.

 

[whitepunkonnitro]

The water jackets are the MAIN difference, I would prefer the older blocks but with a good machine shop the difference is tiny, now if your gonna O-ring it and go blown alky or nitro then.....older for sure LOL.

Nope...blown nitro is my thing, and after examining dozens of blocks, I put three 76-newer castings aside for the AA/FA I'm building. No comparison in web strength...the later ones are much more stout.

 

[the67fish]

I have been running the same 1969 block .030 over since the mid 70s, all drag strip, easily over 1,000 passes, same motor in two different cars, 5.30s to 6.60s 1/8th and 1/4, it just wont quit. I will however not build this motor back up again, too many heli coils in the head bolt holes, I have a newer spare block with the larger figure 8 shaped water passages into the head, will be a street motor so Im not worried about the block, probably under 500 HP.