Is it normal for a 225 to...

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70DartSedan

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make a noise like a playing car stuck in the spokes of a kid's bike? It does not make it at idle or when moving when the accelerator is not pressed (at idle, in gear) does it in forward and reverse. It kinda worries me because it wasn't there before, but I drove a '68 Charger that made the same noise so at the same time I'm not concerned about it too much. I replaced the condensor in the distributor and I cleaned the coil's exterior of caked on grease. The engine accessories were removed and the starter. After some paint it all went back EXACTLY like it came off and when I got it running again I drove it up and down the block and it made that clicking noise. :-k Strange.
 
70DartSedan said:
It does not make it at idle or when moving when the accelerator is not pressed (at idle, in gear) does it in forward and reverse.
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So it only makes it when power is being put to the wheels? Could it be driveline related? How positive are you that it's coming from the engine?

What happens when pressing the accelerator while in neutral? If nothing, then perhaps take a look at driveline. U-joint?
 
SD_R/T said:
So it only makes it when power is being put to the wheels? Could it be driveline related? How positive are you that it's coming from the engine?

What happens when pressing the accelerator while in neutral? If nothing, then perhaps take a look at driveline. U-joint?
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I think U-joint is a very good suggestion and most likely the issue. Have you checked the rearend grease and made sure it is full?
 
I hear ya. It is highly suspect when one alters one, or more, things and a strange result happens. It has happened to me as well. On a 70 Lemans Sport, I replaced a cracked torque converter cover and the same type of noise was heard instantly. that was the only differance which was done to the car. I put on the old one, the noise was gone. Turned out the cover was not a good casting. Point is...if you have changed something and a noise has started, it is a good chance that you did NOT put it back together exactly as it was previously. When u-joints USUALLY go out, one puts a vehicle into reverse, we here a clink as the slop slaps the drive shaft to a quick stop. Now saying it's not a possibility. We all, from time to time, don't assemble things properly and have to redo. Today, for instance, I replaced a ball screw on a waterjet. I forgot to put the dampener in on the end, a 10 minute mistake. No big whoop. I would go through and double check all I had done to be doubley sure.
 
They can also make a cheep cheep cheep cheep kind of squeak at slower speeds if they are dry and worn.
 
Ujoints can make a popping sound and not have any slop in them if they are dry.
 
Hey if you don't know the age of your u joints, replace them. I'm a BIG believer that if one doesn't know how old something is replace it
 
Exhaust manifold leak? Is it louder when cold and quiets down some when the motor gets hot?
 
I'll try 2 guesses. What is the prize?

1. Sheet-metal tranny inspection plate is hitting torque converter. Happened to me in 1986 after hitting a rock on a gravel road in my 69 Dart 225 w/ 904. A few miles before, I ran across a Scout Master removing the inspection plate on his Valiant 225 which had hit a rock with the same result. Been driving near Wrightwood, CA lately?

2. Noise is actually coming from your radio speakers from ignition pickup, due to a failing coil capacitor.

I doubt the U-joint since in my Dart I think it was bad for 10 years. I assumed the big clunk from P to R was normal. Finally got so bad it caused a vibration at 55 mph. Took it out and found no needle bearings and lots of rust.
 
AHamilton said:
I hear ya. It is highly suspect when one alters one, or more, things and a strange result happens. It has happened to me as well. On a 70 Lemans Sport, I replaced a cracked torque converter cover and the same type of noise was heard instantly. that was the only differance which was done to the car. I put on the old one, the noise was gone. Turned out the cover was not a good casting. Point is...if you have changed something and a noise has started, it is a good chance that you did NOT put it back together exactly as it was previously. When u-joints USUALLY go out, one puts a vehicle into reverse, we here a clink as the slop slaps the drive shaft to a quick stop. Now saying it's not a possibility. We all, from time to time, don't assemble things properly and have to redo. Today, for instance, I replaced a ball screw on a waterjet. I forgot to put the dampener in on the end, a 10 minute mistake. No big whoop. I would go through and double check all I had done to be doubley sure.
Click to expand...

You may be right, I ordered a service manual and I will go through my engine with a fine tooth comb when the FSM gets here.

AHamilton said:
Hey if you don't know the age of your u joints, replace them. I'm a BIG believer that if one doesn't know how old something is replace it
Click to expand...

No slop in u-joints not them.

dartman1974 said:
Exhaust manifold leak? Is it louder when cold and quiets down some when the motor gets hot?
Click to expand...

Nope, it is a clicking noise that increases with engine speed.

BillGrissom said:
I'll try 2 guesses. What is the prize?

1. Sheet-metal tranny inspection plate is hitting torque converter. Happened to me in 1986 after hitting a rock on a gravel road in my 69 Dart 225 w/ 904. A few miles before, I ran across a Scout Master removing the inspection plate on his Valiant 225 which had hit a rock with the same result. Been driving near Wrightwood, CA lately?

2. Noise is actually coming from your radio speakers from ignition pickup, due to a failing coil capacitor.

I doubt the U-joint since in my Dart I think it was bad for 10 years. I assumed the big clunk from P to R was normal. Finally got so bad it caused a vibration at 55 mph. Took it out and found no needle bearings and lots of rust.
Click to expand...

1. No, can't say, I checked that and it is straight. I live about 2400 miles from CA and have no plans to be in that state as long as it is the way it is now.

2. Radio is off when this noise happens, and the car is a 55,000 mile car, practically new.
 
use a long screwdriver or dowel as a stethoscope and see if you can determine where it is coming from
 
Nope. I don't notice anything, infact I think it idles better than after it came back "tuned to perfection"
 
70DartSedan said:
Nope. I don't notice anything, infact I think it idles better than after it came back "tuned to perfection"
Click to expand...

Not idling....but give it gas while in Neutral and get the rpms up.

If you can rev up the engine in Neutral without the noise and the noise is only made while the car is in gear, it seems to me it's not coming from the engine itself but rather somewhere rear of the engine.
 
Sounds like converter bolts on the flex plate. Doubt it would be end play in the crank.

My brother used to have a VW that had so much end play in the crank it would jam into the bell housing and kill the engine!
 
Well I don't no much,but this has happened to me.How much clearence is ther between all the fan blades and the radiator?When I had the 6 in my dart, if I came down on the brakes real hard or reved it up a little one of the blades would hit the rad due to what I'm thinking was worn motor mounts and a bent fan blade.
 
70DartSedan said:
make a noise like a playing car stuck in the spokes of a kid's bike? It does not make it at idle or when moving when the accelerator is not pressed (at idle, in gear) does it in forward and reverse. It kinda worries me because it wasn't there before, but I drove a '68 Charger that made the same noise so at the same time I'm not concerned about it too much. I replaced the condensor in the distributor and I cleaned the coil's exterior of caked on grease. The engine accessories were removed and the starter. After some paint it all went back EXACTLY like it came off and when I got it running again I drove it up and down the block and it made that clicking noise. :-k Strange.
Click to expand...

70DartSedan said:
You may be right, I ordered a service manual and I will go through my engine with a fine tooth comb when the FSM gets here.



No slop in u-joints not them.



Nope, it is a clicking noise that increases with engine speed.



1. No, can't say, I checked that and it is straight. I live about 2400 miles from CA and have no plans to be in that state as long as it is the way it is now.

2. Radio is off when this noise happens, and the car is a 55,000 mile car, practically new.
Click to expand...

SD_R/T said:
Not idling....but give it gas while in Neutral and get the rpms up.

If you can rev up the engine in Neutral without the noise and the noise is only made while the car is in gear, it seems to me it's not coming from the engine itself but rather somewhere rear of the engine.[/quote]

Xs2 on bold. The torque convertor and flex plate will be moving when the engine is running even in idle.

Post the answer when you find out what the problem was.
Click to expand...
 
You said you replaced the condensor in the distributor could it be the cap maybe setting lopsided and rotor is hitting the contacts on the cap. When you rev the motor the distributor shaft moves up a bit. Just a thought
 
valentino automotive said:
You said you replaced the condensor in the distributor could it be the cap maybe setting lopsided and rotor is hitting the contacts on the cap. When you rev the motor the distributor shaft moves up a bit. Just a thought
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great idea, I'll check that.:D
 
Since guessing has not been prohibited, I'm going to guess that it may be a broken motor mount/isolator that allows the fan to hit a fan shroud or the radiator when the engine moves while it is under load. Good luck with finding the problem and applying a fix.
 
Did you check to see if someone put a playing card in your spokes without you knowing it?
Just kidding!
I actually think it's the fan hitting something that shifts when you drive it and it contacts the fan. Look for wear marks on the fan blade tips.
I'll bet your motor mounts are toast.
Get someone to power brake it until it makes the noise while you listen from under the hood.
My second guess would be torque converter bolts hitting the tin cover either on the bottom or the starter shim has come loose. Check to see if the starter is loose and the tin shim is behind it and in it's proper place.
 
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