is my ignition switch bad ??

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22dog22

22dog22

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today tried to start my newly rebuilt 318, primed oil, filled the holley carb, with fuel down the vent tubes, engine cranked, and would fire and as soon as I release the key it would quite running, now I already removed the resistor block because I installed a none mopar electroinic ignition , when I checked for power with a test lite on the + on the coil which showed power there as the engine started, as soon as I release the key to the run position the power went out and the engine stopped running I followed the brown wire that feeds the coil back to ignition switch with no breaks in the wire , I think the ignition switch may be the problem !!,?? any ideas ?? so close to finally get my car to run after a 4 year build !!!
 
time for the VOM. ck the volt at the coil with key in run position. hint from my old dad. "check the easiest and cheapest things first."
 
There are two wires (brown and a blue) that went to the old ballast system.
These need to be tied together to power your new ignition system.

(One is hot only in the start position, and the other only in the run position)
 
thanks Trail Beast, I see I need to recheck my wring, since I also updated to a 2 field alternator, so I changed other wires, so this blue wire then supplies power on the run position of the ignition switch ?
 
22dog22 said:
thanks Trail Beast, I see I need to recheck my wring, since I also updated to a 2 field alternator, so I changed other wires, so this blue wire then supplies power on the run position of the ignition switch ?
Click to expand...

Yes, tie the blue one in with the brown one that runs to your coil pos.
This way the coil has power to it in both start and run.

I just twisted the blue and brown together right where they came out of the harness on the firewall and ran a new wire from those to the new coil.
 
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