Not if it under non operational
Is there anything special to look out for when inspecting a 1970 Dart Swinger?
- Thread starter kevink5516
- Start date
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Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
I don't like his reference on the paint, "Sprayed". It looks like a basic Dart that was put together with whatever he had laying around. If it has an 8 3/4 rear, not a lot of Bondo (he said there was some) and the car drove, maybe for that price of $15,000. Also, I never cared for an aftermarket instrument panel, unless it was for racing and all those gauges are needed.
LST46
Active Member
Too many red flags for me at that price. Adjusting the shifter is extremely easy as long as all of the correct parts are there. Same goes for the kick down. If he can’t get those 2 very simple things working right he doesn’t impress me much as a mechanic or he’s using that as an excuse to cover for a junk transmission. The only way I’d consider that car is to put it up on a rack and do a thorough inspection. I’d bet that 95% complete job is more likely 25%. IMO that’s a $7500 car at most. I’m 61 and have seen a bunch of cobbled together cars that were supposed to be 95% done but in reality need a full restoration. If you really like the car offer about $7000 and stick to your guns. Remember, if it’s a Bondo buggy and you can’t fix it a proper paint job starts at about $10,000 these days
A lot of red flags to me. But the heart wants what the heart wants just know that there is a lot of work that goes along with that one. I would much rather have a clean 6 cylinder or stock318 car as a canvas to work with. For every problem you see there's five or 10 you'll find. I would walk away.
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
I'm not a Californian, and claim no expertise in this, so I'll just point out that the seller, who is clearly experienced, judging by that garage, posted, "out of DMV system, " and not "DMV listed as non-operational."
– Eric
what rear end it have 71/4? THAT HAS TO GO , BRAKES trunk frame rails crossmember all need to be looked at closely , new dash how was the wiring done , kickdown not adjusted properly can melt a transmission . Pass and keep the El Camino at least you know the history of that car
Also did not see a wiring box on the firewall , not heater core or controls to much wrong with this car and that is only what we can see , imagine the crap we can't see
Also did not see a wiring box on the firewall , not heater core or controls to much wrong with this car and that is only what we can see , imagine the crap we can't see
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if it was PNO, you'd be paying the "tags" every year and it'd still be in the system.
frequently people go PNO, then thinking that because it's non operational they don't have to pay the $5 or whatever it is every year. that's when the fees start stacking up. they sell it to somebody else as: clean title, non op! no fees! then that person get the surprise when they go to transfer title.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
You have to renew a planned non-op annually? I've always just paid it once and renewed the registration when the vehicle was operational again - however many years later. Have they changed the rules?
Wow cali sux
My vette and s4 haven't been registered in 20 years ....
The kid wants to put the vette back on the road this year
My vette and s4 haven't been registered in 20 years ....
The kid wants to put the vette back on the road this year
oh, you know what. you're right. it's a one time fee. i always get that confused because they send out the "option to renew" every year. derp.
but do note, a PNO doesn't erase or wash fees if they already existed.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Thanks man. You had me worried for a minute! I'm just about to renew the registration on my '66 Dart that's been PNO'd for almost 20 years. I'm so relieved now.
MILO
Well-Known Member
i bought a dart that the rear torsion bar cross frame mount was twisted out and had to replace the crossframe that is welded in
Ded Sirius
Active Member
It's a flipper. I bought one a bit better than that but very similar a couple years ago. While I am, overall, happy with my car still, I have learned a lot from the experience and would be more picky the next time around. I have fun in it and all but wiring hacks are a pain to fix, shortcuts flippers use to make it good for pictures are much harder to repair than the stuff they were originally trying to cover up for. I lucked out with a NV desert solid, rust free chassis and straight body with good floors,though the black paint they sprayed all over made me scrutinize it closely. Yhat eas important here in rust belt. Minimal bondo in the drivers rear quarter and no rust about the windows. The trim and weather seals all need replacing and it is not water proof. The stroker drivetrain and 727 trans were well sorted and manual disc setup on all four corners is sort of safe. I spent about what your ad is asking. The fact that he immediately dropped his price in conversation shows he thinks the market is weak for what he offers. If you still like it, offer him less than you will ultimately go and don't settle for 15. Just my 1.5 cents. Good luck.
In FL, you do a non-op registration once, just to get the vehicle in your name.
Also in FL you have 10 days to complete a title transfer, or you pay a penalty.
Once it's in your name, you don't pay again until it's registered and insured as operational, and they send you stickers and/or plates.
Also in FL you have 10 days to complete a title transfer, or you pay a penalty.
Once it's in your name, you don't pay again until it's registered and insured as operational, and they send you stickers and/or plates.
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