Is this a good donor car?

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Find out the history of the engine. See if he has receipts for the build. Best would be to hear it run, but he says it's not running. I would want to know why since it looks awfully darn close... Also find out if the car was an original V8 car, or if he swapped a /6 for the V8. You will most likely want the V8 torsion bars and K member from the 4 door.
 
My advice would be to learn how to tell the difference between a 904 and 727, and the different Mopar rears, then go look at it yourself armed with that info. I wouldn't trust what the seller says it is, they may not know, or may tell you incorrect info. You just never know.

It may be close to being worth that to you if it has a good transmission, and has had an 8.75 rear swapped into it, but that's probably unlikely.

Rebuilt 318's are usually pretty cheap. Especially if they have no documentation, because then you are taking their word on what is in it (if they have any idea), and you don't know how well it was put together or planned. Could be a ticking time bomb if whoever put it together didn't know what they were doing.

So, for it to be worth even close to $1500 for your intended use seems a bit of a stretch, but it depends on what other parts you can use are on it. That's just my opinion. Go look at this just to rule it out or maybe get it real cheap if the real info and situation is better than what we can tell with that simple ad, but otherwise, I would personally look for a good deal on a rebuilt small block preferably with documentation by a reputable builder, then find the rear end and trans you want separately.

EDIT: Good point above about the other V8 parts (torsion bars, K). If there isn't a V8 K in there, then maybe they used the Schumacher /6 to 318 mounts, which is fine too. Keep in mind everything you will need for your conversion. In addition to all of the above, new driveshaft, radiator, possible brake upgrades. (Looks like the car in the ad has NOT been upgraded to front disks). It's not a cheap conversion usually. So, the more you can get cheaply in one deal, the better. If this car has a lot of that already, and you can get it cheap, then maybe it wouldn't be so bad.
 
Price is a bit unless he can supply you with recent receipts from a complete rebuild with bore job, pistons, cam and such!!!

The car in general won't have much to offer you for parts, unless someone put in an 8 3/4 rear end, cause I doubt it had one from the factory. Ask if it's negotiable on price, 727 or 904 transmission. Might ask if it had discs. on the front, but doubtfull.
 
I'd do some research and see what parts from the car are worth to see if you can justify spending that much on it. For example, the grill, taillights, rear trim, and front fenders appear to be in decent shape. Maybe those can be sold to get your overall price down to what the engine is worth.

I bought a 72 Duster drag car I ended up getting paid to take after I sold the parts I didn't want. I did a similar deal on a 71 Duster drag car and a 75 Dart Sport as well. It all comes down to how much work your willing to do and whether you have the room to store parts till they sell.

Good luck with your build.
 
Thanks all good points. I will see if its still there after the holidays. I can tell a 8 3/4 from a 7 1/4 and 904 vs 727. How does a v8 k member differ from /6.
 
That would be a great parts car if you were doing a '68 Dart.
In my opinion, you should find a '73 and up a-body V8 car complete, running, and driving and use that instead. Something a little rusty and dented up with a thrashed interior would be perfect.
Then you'll have the good big bolt pattern disc brakes, the good spool mount k member, and bbp rear diff, electronic ignition wiring harness, etc. All of this stuff is a direct bolt on for your car.
 
That would be a great parts car if you were doing a '68 Dart.
In my opinion, you should find a '73 and up a-body V8 car complete, running, and driving and use that instead. Something a little rusty and dented up with a thrashed interior would be perfect.
Then you'll have the good big bolt pattern disc brakes, the good spool mount k member, and bbp rear diff, electronic ignition wiring harness, etc. All of this stuff is a direct bolt on for your car.

This is a great bit of advice. I know it sounds strange but I intend to keep the SBP axles even if I swap to 8 3/4. My car already has power disc fronts and I like the looks of the original hub caps. The rest of it would be great ,love the direct bolt in stuff!!
 
With a warmed over 318 an 8 1/4 rear will be plenty strong enough... IMO
 
Yeah, an 8.25 would definitely be plenty strong enough, but this '68 doesn't have that, he doesn't have that now, and if he wants to keep small bolt pattern, an 8.25 won't give him that.
 
Thanks all good points. I will see if its still there after the holidays. I can tell a 8 3/4 from a 7 1/4 and 904 vs 727. How does a v8 k member differ from /6.

Here is a couple of identification charts for the transmission and rear end.
 

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