Is this at Scrap I’m assuming it is

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Cythomas

Cythomas

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I figured this is garbage just asking

5A6817A8-697D-461C-82CE-3B5BCD674891.jpeg
 
Nope. You can clean that up and make it just like new. I wouldn’t trash it unless it’s already .040 under or something.
 
Is it a 360 crank? Guessing time I take it. Well if so the rod journals can be cut down .010-.040 or maybe even more if bearings are available. Or to Chevy size. The main bearings under .020 are harder to find.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Is it a 360 crank? Guessing time I take it. Well if so the rod journals can be cut down .010-.040 or maybe even more if bearings are available. Or to Chevy size. The main bearings under .020 are harder to find.
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Yeah, I forgot to add .040 under on the mains. You can find .030 under but you have to look. The rods can go clear down to SBC SJ if need be.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Then ya grind it to the 340 main.
Lol you can save 'almost' anything.
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I never got into doing that or even considered it but my last one did need .020 on the mains. I found the needed bearings on eBay at a give away price then we cut away. Oppps forgot to hit the post button.
 
assuming its not bent or cracked just about anything can be saved as said before. easy way to check for cracks for free (not fullproof and should also be verified by a machine shop) but if there are large cracks you should be able to "hear" them. Take an open ended wrench or small piece of metal and just tap on the counter balance weights up and down one at a time. The crank should sound like a tuning fork if all is well. If it doesn't have a nice consistent frequency up and down then you likely have a crack somewhere. If it passes this test then you can continue with the rest of the process of cleaning up. A friend of mine who builds engines for a living does this when people bring in their "good" cranks, taps it a few times up and down before even starting, if it has a crack he usually finds it in seconds, if it all checks out then he pulls out the real equipment to start checking everything
 
Projectile Dart said:
assuming its not bent or cracked just about anything can be saved as said before. easy way to check for cracks for free (not fullproof and should also be verified by a machine shop) but if there are large cracks you should be able to "hear" them. Take an open ended wrench or small piece of metal and just tap on the counter balance weights up and down one at a time. The crank should sound like a tuning fork if all is well. If it doesn't have a nice consistent frequency up and down then you likely have a crack somewhere. If it passes this test then you can continue with the rest of the process of cleaning up. A friend of mine who builds engines for a living does this when people bring in their "good" cranks, taps it a few times up and down before even starting, if it has a crack he usually finds it in seconds, if it all checks out then he pulls out the real equipment to start checking everything
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That trick only works if it’s a forged crank. Kim
 
I dug a 318 crank out of the shed to see if it would clean up to use in my 273. It looked as bad as the one in the original post. I filled a 5 gallon bucket with white vinegar, and suspended the crank into the bucket with a ratchet strap until it was just off the bottom of the bucket. Took it out after one day, and cleaned it up with WD40 and a plastic bristle brush. It was perfectly clean. I flipped it over and soaked the other end in the vinegar, and cleaned it up. Neutralized the vinegar by pressure washing it and wiping it with baking soda. I sprayed it down with oil, and wrapped it up in plastic. I took it to my machinist, and it is already .010-.010, and he says it needs a light polish to get the clearances in the middle of the range. Vinegar is cheap at Sams Club or Wal Mart....and the sides of the interstates are littered with 5 gallon buckets, so.......
 
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