Is this car worth 8000

-
TheCudaKid said:
put some new parts and maybe paint, then sell for profit
Click to expand...
Zero profit in that car ever.

If you want to flip an A Body you are going to have to be incredibly lucky to find one that the seller just wants to get rid of but is a clean driver, maybe needs the paint restored.

A car that has been that modified to race will take 10s of thousands to undo the damage.

If you want to race it you will most likely be in another 5 to 10 K to bring it up to snuff.

If you had a shop and could do ALL the work yourself in a top notch professional manner maybe you could make a profit. If you do not count your time as money.
 
Too many mysteries on this one for $8k. The potential is here to lose big time. I would be very skeptical and only interested if the price was more reasonable.
 
I would say you would need to really check it out..get some eyes on it. People will do some sketchy **** to cars especially, if they never plan on driving it on the street.
 
It's worth every bit of eight I would ask 12 on my end
 
The car is badass, someone will want to buy it.
If you get stuck with it, well they are not making that car anymore and they're hard to find.
I'm actually surprised it's that inexpensive
 
I am with Garrett.I wouldnt give more than $6500 because you WILL find more stuff it needs and you can bet that this guy has jacked the price up knowing you will offer less and put it back in the right range at $6500. We all ask more than we need on anything.
 
Go see the seller with 8k in your pocket, start at 6k and see what happens. I bought my Demon roller for 8k, my racing partner and I sat down and figured that if I'd started with a shell and finally got it to the point of where I bought it, i would have had well over 20k in the car. Now mind you, I was looking for a race car, not a street car.
 
Demonracer said:
Go see the seller with 8k in your pocket, start at 6k and see what happens.
Click to expand...

,,,and don't have your 8k in only one pocket! Have your starting bid in one pocket and the rest split up and distributed in the rest of your pockets, socks, shorts or wherever.
 
When I go to look at anything priced over a few dollars I'm always armed and no one will ever know just how many pieces I have at my disposal. And I ALWAYS have someone with me who is also armed. If I go into an iffy area, there is usually another vehicle with armed friends in it sitting close by but out of site.
 
Demonracer said:
When I go to look at anything priced over a few dollars I'm always armed and no one will ever know just how many pieces I have at my disposal. And I ALWAYS have someone with me who is also armed. If I go into an iffy area, there is usually another vehicle with armed friends in it sitting close by but out of site.
Click to expand...

That’s too bad. Buying a car in Canada is apparently much less violent.

If I’m concerned about safety or being robbed I’ll go with a couple hundred bucks in my pocket for an immediate deposit, then after assessing the ‘worry factor’ I’ll either go ahead with just a deposit saying I’ll be back with a trailer and the balance and a friend to ‘help’, or if it’s all good just make the deal on the spot and go to the car and retrieve the appropriate amount of cash that was just negotiated for. The cash obviously is in a hidden spot inside the car etc…
 
I drove to Michigan to look at a 1991 tube chassis Daytona that was listed for if I remember right 15,500. I was pretty much positive I was buying the car so I took a 11,500 certified check and the rest cash. Loved the car and extras so we agreed on 15,000. Well the bank wanted to put a hold of three days on the check so you know how that went. I’m 300 miles from home and the car is going to Norwalk two days later to Monster Mopar to sell. So chooses had to be made. I got a cash advance on my credit card and they handed him the cash. That cost me around 450.00 but saved me from Driving 300 miles home and 600 miles the next day. That was the last time I used a certified or cashier check. I was super glad I had a credit card with a high line of credit.
 
Last edited:
There’s one thing about tech in North Carolina. Most of the tracks are outlaw tracks and have no tech.
 
If that car is a roller with the whole drivetrain and cage yes sure why would you think you are getting racing equipment any cheaper, it isnt a slant 6 barracuda in street trim...
 
I've seen more $ asked for worse.

Pros:
Appears like a solid body
Has entire drivetrain

Cons:
Been sitting a while, and personally I would have to at least regasket the engine and trans so see what they are and make sure things are right at the min.
May need new fuel lines
Brakes lines may need replacing

If you want a race car it's decent starting point, if you want a street/strip car, going to have lots of $ making it that. Personally, I don't think ladder bar cars are that great for the street.

Notchback barracudas don't seem to bring the $ of other A bodies.

Personally, I wouldn't pay the asking price. I honestly don't see you being able to flip the car for a profit either. But if you want that year/make car it could be a decent buy if you'd figure out what those things would cost you individually if you had to say buy a /6 solid body roller and then buy the drivetrain, etc.
 
Look over the cage really well, if you're wanting to run it on the track. Make sure you fit, i.e. the hoop isn't too far forward, halo isn't too short, etc. Check the welds on the cage, look at cage requirements for the ET you want to go. Chassis work isn't cheap if you can't do it yourself, and it's tough to tell in a few internet pics how nice the cage is. The going rate around here for an 8.50 moly cage starts at $4k, and climbs pretty quick if a lot of shoddy work has to be cut out and re-done.
I bought a mid-80's charger a couple years back (there's a thread on here somewhere), drove 6 hours to look and find that the cage was too short, too far forward, rear framerails were junk, front suspension wasn't trackworthy, etc etc. Still bought the car, because I got it for half price and I enjoy the build process. Just know it can snowball quick if you want it built right, and safe.
 
Demonracer said:
When I go to look at anything priced over a few dollars I'm always armed and no one will ever know just how many pieces I have at my disposal. And I ALWAYS have someone with me who is also armed. If I go into an iffy area, there is usually another vehicle with armed friends in it sitting close by but out of site.
Click to expand...
Holy ****!
 
Just buy it check fluids drive to the nearest track and let it eat. Video and report back with results it’s only money. **** we survived the eclipse today. Not much time left.
 
67/6barracuda said:
Just buy it check fluids drive to the nearest track and let it eat. Video and report back with results it’s only money. **** we survived the eclipse today. Not much time left.
Click to expand...
if i had 10K burning a hole in my pocket and enough free time to get up to no good, then i'd totally scoop something like this.

if the body isn't total trash and you could grab it fro 6~7 and throw another 3~4 at it to go have some fun then why not. i'd go into knowing that i 100% would not make any money on the B side of things, but i probably wouldn't take a massive loss and would have heaps of fun along the way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top