Is this enough space on my rear wheels? 18” wheels

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J.B.

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I have a 1971 Demon 8-3/4” rear with rear disc’s. The wheels are vision legends 5’s and in the rear they are 18”x9.5” 5.72”BS/+12 offset on Nitto G2 275/40R18. Are these too tight to the leaf spring? I dont see tires side flexing that much to hit the springs but wanted to know other opinions. They are pinky spaced or 1/2” from spring. Do i need a spacer or they are fine? The fronts are perfect at Front 18”x8.5” - 5.55”BS/+20 offset Nitto G2 245/40R18
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the pictures are deceiving,they almost appear to only have a few hairs of clearance but in general I would say that 1/2inch is enough if that is what you see
I would suggest to take it slow, maybe drive around the neighborhood and hit a few speed bumps and dips and take it straight home and inspect again for any signs of rubbing, then continue to step it up to freeway speeds doing the same process
 
Pictures can be pretty deceptive when looking at that amount of gap. It doesn’t look like you’ve got a 1/2” there.

That said, if you do in fact have a 1/2” to the spring, that’s enough clearance. When I was running drum brakes still in the back I only had about 3/8” between my springs and the 275/35/18’s I was running and never had any issues there.

The shorter sidewalls you get with 18” rims don’t move around as much as what you usually get with a 15” rim, but also remember that the springs themselves flex and those leafs slide around on each other and can shift around a little.
 
Again, pictures can be deceiving but this is the gap I was running before I added the rear disk kit that widened the track width a bit more
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I used the rear disc kit Rear 1973 Dart discs kit DBK834LX, motor isnt in havent drive. It yet it free roles perfectly pushing in and out if driveway but im just concerned cause it is really really close 3/8-1/2”
 
Corners will be the true test. Tires flex and “twist”. Typically 1/2” is tight but okay.
Syleng1
 
On the street, I've run down to a quarter inch, with 325/50-15 BFG DRs on 10" wheels @24psi, with offset springs that are de-arched to nearly flat.
But; when cornering, the entire body shifts sideways on the rear shackles, and the tires rub on the inner wells, which have a static 3/8ths inch....... but amazingly not on the springs. So, on the street, I slow down, lol.
They are fine for dragracing, even down to 12 psi.
 
I have a 1971 Demon 8-3/4” rear with rear disc’s. The wheels are vision legends 5’s and in the rear they are 18”x9.5” 5.72”BS/+12 offset on Nitto G2 275/40R18. Are these too tight to the leaf spring? I dont see tires side flexing that much to hit the springs but wanted to know other opinions. They are pinky spaced or 1/2” from spring. Do i need a spacer or they are fine? The fronts are perfect at Front 18”x8.5” - 5.55”BS/+20 offset Nitto G2 245/40R18
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I have 1/2 an inch with 40’s on 18 inch rims with no issues.
It’s my daily driver, so it’s been tested well.
Like mentioned above the short sidewall doesn’t move much.

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Something to be heads up about :
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
** Must use E-Brake Cable for self adjusting mechanism to work properly.

NOTE: If you are using these rear calipers there are some important things you should know. One of the biggest advantages of a disc brake system is the fool proof self adjuster. Not so with this rear GM system. The rear calipers adjust off the parking brake. The parking brake is incorporated into the caliper. You must set the parking brake every time you park the car.The rear caliper pitons utilize a one way clutch inside the caliper piston. When the parking brake is applied the clutch senses when there is .030" or more clearance between the friction material and the rotor on the inboard side. When there is more than .030" the clutch turns inside the piston adjusting it out keeping the rear brakes adjusted. If you do not set your parking brake every time you will start to lose brake pedal (low and spongy) and the adjuster mechanism will not work any longer.

Kit Link
 
Just to confirm what the others have said, I have approx. 0.25" from the tire bulge to the spring with a 45 series tire and no issues.

If these were 70 up series tires and hitting the corners pretty hard I'd be worried
 
Those rubber band tores won’t flex much. Amd the springs are clamp so,they aren’t moving 1/2”

The tire can hit the top of the wheelwell when the rear axle goes up or down on one side it tilts the tire then rubs. Won’t hit the spring doing that.
 
I mounted up the 18x10 +6 last night. T his is on a stock spring location 8.25 w/drum brakes and a 3/8” spacer on each side. This equals 52.25 spacer to spacer. An A-body 8.75 is 52.625”. I’ll still need the spacer or cut my B-body housing to a 53 - 53.25” flange to flange.
The back lip touches the spring so I would still need spacers on an A-body 8.75.

Does the rear Dr. Diff 11.7” brake kit move the WMS out?

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I mounted up the 18x10 +6 last night. T his is on a stock spring location 8.25 w/drum brakes and a 3/8” spacer on each side. This equals 52.25 spacer to spacer. An A-body 8.75 is 52.625”. I’ll still need the spacer or cut my B-body housing to a 53 - 53.25” flange to flange.
The back lip touches the spring so I would still need spacers on an A-body 8.75.

Does the rear Dr. Diff 11.7” brake kit move the WMS out?

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Any rear disk kit will act like a 1/4" spacer or so, due to the slip on rotor.
 
Any rear disk kit will act like a 1/4" spacer or so, due to the slip on rotor.
Just talked to Forgeline and since I will be changing both halves they can send me the two sealed replacement shells. It's as simple as unbolting the face and making sure it's cleaned of the old sealant and prepped with alcohol, mating the three pieces, and torquing the hardware in sequence.
 
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I mounted up the 18x10 +6 last night. T his is on a stock spring location 8.25 w/drum brakes and a 3/8” spacer on each side. This equals 52.25 spacer to spacer. An A-body 8.75 is 52.625”. I’ll still need the spacer or cut my B-body housing to a 53 - 53.25” flange to flange.
The back lip touches the spring so I would still need spacers on an A-body 8.75.

Does the rear Dr. Diff 11.7” brake kit move the WMS out?

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So typically with an A-body 8 3/4 with stock spring locations a +12 offset is pretty close to where you need to be. The 8.25” is narrower by about a 1/2” per side. The 52 5/8” measurement you’re using is the housing width, not the WMS-WMS measurement. An A-body 8 3/4 with BBP axles is ~57 13/16 wide WMS to WMS. The SBP version is more like 57 1/8”.

With the stock spring locations and BBP axles in an A-body 8 3/4 with drums you typically get about 6” from WMS to spring. With a 1/2” offset you should be a bit better than 6.5” from WMS to spring. As Dion pointed out the disk kit will add another 1/4” or so, now you’re at 6 3/4”. Figure about 1/2” of tire clearance and a 1/2” of tire overhang, and I think that 5.75” backspace is about perfect.
 
I mounted up the 18x10 +6 last night. T his is on a stock spring location 8.25 w/drum brakes and a 3/8” spacer on each side. This equals 52.25 spacer to spacer. An A-body 8.75 is 52.625”. I’ll still need the spacer or cut my B-body housing to a 53 - 53.25” flange to flange.
The back lip touches the spring so I would still need spacers on an A-body 8.75.

Does the rear Dr. Diff 11.7” brake kit move the WMS out?

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May I just say those wheels are going to look killer on that car! Great color combo.
 
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