IS this worth fixing.

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Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
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This is an 360 oil pan i have been saving for another 360 build,as you can see it has a hole worth fixing,my fear is another 1 will pop and leak the pan is not to rusty,has anyone had worse and fix it.

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If you have an emotional attachement to it, I would clean/strip it, repair the hole with JB Weld, then coat the inside with fuel tank sealer..
 
Less than five minutes with a mig welder and it will be fixed forever.
 
In the picture it appears as though there are a number of other deep rust pits. Your concern about another hole popping up is understandable. I'd swap it out for a different pan if you've got another one.
 
1967 'cuda said:
In the picture it appears as though there are a number of other deep rust pits. Your concern about another hole popping up is understandable. I'd swap it out for a different pan if you've got another one.
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No I dont have another 1 going to price an aftermarket 1 soon.
 
If a lot of rust pitting is there, it would be a shame to lose oil and a motor on a long drive where you might not notice a new leak very quickly.
 
it looks like a puncture wound, not a rust spot
but that could be the water

if it is a puncture, the welder will fix that good as new
otherwise a new pan is about 50 bucks
 
Yeah a new total piece of chinkesium pan that may or may not fit.
 
I dunno, i bought a $50 taiwanese scummit pan, in nice cad plated steel. Seems to fit pretty well. It was on sale for $39
 
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Snake, in looking at that bubbling elsewhere, I'd bet that pan will be a minefield of pitting under your paint. If you put one hand inside and the other outside and run your fingers over the same areas and the metal feels thin, it may be too rusted to weld well. It could blow five holes around the one you're trying to fix.

Once you get it stripped, washed and dried, you could also skim the whole bottom in JB Weld. Just apply it thinly and let it set up for awhile between layers. Try not to introduce a lot of air when you mix the compounds or you can get tiny pinholes in it (which will collect moisture and road debris later and start the problem all over again).
 
it looks like it is pretty laced with corrosion and very thin in other spots. I didn't suggest welding, because it doesn't look like it could handle it. Thats also why I suggested using the fuel tank liner. It will prevent another leak.
 
CudaChick1968 said:
Snake, in looking at that bubbling elsewhere, I'd bet that pan will be a minefield of pitting under your paint. If you put one hand inside and the other outside and run your fingers over the same areas and the metal feels thin, it may be too rusted to weld well. It could blow five holes around the one you're trying to fix.

Once you get it stripped, washed and dried, you could also skim the whole bottom in JB Weld. Just apply it thinly and let it set up for awhile between layers. Try not to introduce a lot of air when you mix the compounds or you can get tiny pinholes in it (which will collect moisture and road debris later and start the problem all over again).
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Well said, I trust your knowledge on metal for sure.
 
Kill two birds with one stone;
I would junk that pan,in favor of a pan that is slightly deeper and wider with more capacity.Getting the oil off the crank and keeping it off is probably worth close to one cam size, at peak power.
 
I paid about 50 for mine for the 5.9 from Summit also and it looked and felt exactly like a factory pan.
Not thinner, solid steel and all and fit perfect just like it was the original.

I have to agree on it very possibly being rotted out, but if it is only a puncture and not a rust through I have to agree with the mig weld.
Bzzzt, done. :D
I welded up a 1/2 hole in the trans pan, checked it for leaks with gas, then polished the weld down inside and out with a sanding disc on my four inch grinder, then gas checked it again before it got paint and went on.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ummit-racing&gclid=CJvOrOexoc4CFUiTfgodZBgIZw

pan.jpg
 
Ok you all got me thinking so much info.However its an org piece from Ma Mopar VS a repop, one may have to take a chance.
 
It's not a #s matching piece their buddy , it's an oil pan for christs sake , walk through the vendors area at Moparfest and you'll find a dozen of em , go sunday afternoon and offer 20 bucks .
 
cannucky said:
It's not a #s matching piece their buddy , it's an oil pan for christs sake , walk through the vendors area at Moparfest and you'll find a dozen of em , go sunday afternoon and offer 20 bucks .
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I here ya,i plan on a new 1.I had a repop on my last 360 fit was perfect,a chance i will take.
 
A side note,will any SB oil pump pick up work,I dont have that,i need to know.I know the truck motors are different.
 
No. Truck pickups are different than car. Also motorhome pickups are different yet still. It has to be for a center sump car pan. Truck pans are rear sump, motorhome pans are front sump, so all three have different style pickups.
 
Snake said:
I here ya,i plan on a new 1.I had a repop on my last 360 fit was perfect,a chance i will take.
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Was just makin sure you understand you ARE taking a chance. I have seen chinkesium pans that did not fit well at all.
 
i got a new one from NAPA, shipped from ontario to bc for 113 before taxes, looks good and feels solid
 
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