I've done a ton of research- so now I'm really confused....

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I think that with winter coming on, If this was me I would just do the engine swap and forget all B.S. but that just my opinion
Joe
 
Me too, along with door skins, please list mfg for fenders, correct trunk pans.
Someone is blowing smoke up yer arse about EVERY piece. Unless you have a graveyard full of them rust free.
boblonben said:
Can get sheet metal for every part of 67 -69 barracudas. Just restored a 67 had no problem with rear quarter right front and door skin.
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barbee6043 said:
Door skins from where I 'm curious!!
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I'd start by taking the valve covers off and remove the rocker assy. Then rotate each piston down about 3/8 inch and use the method of a shoestring crammed in the spark plug hole, then rotate the piston back up. Remove each Valve stem keeper and spring the replace all the old valvestem seals. Reinstall the springs and keepers. Adjust the valve lash to the cold spec and button up the valve covers. Run slowly till warm and pull the valve covers and readjust lash hot.

I'd bet this fixes the smoke on start and the engine runs better after you replace the points, cap, rotor, sparkplugs and wires....

Don't dink with a cam or headers now. Save the $$$ for the 360/380/410 build.
 
Get the stock engine running smoothly and clean up the engine compartment. It looks like a really nice car, and such "A" bodies are rare. You can get into enough trouble street driving with the stock 180 hp. Unless you really want a track star keep it stock so you can use it. Let the "E" body owners build the dragsters.
 
That looks like a really nice car. Get the engine running and clean up the engine compartment. Such nice "A"-bodies are rare. If you cut it up you will be sorry later. Leave the dragsters to the "E"-body owners, and those who have the "rat-rod" bodied versions. After a show, few will remember another "hot-rod", but everyone will remember the Barracuda that looked just like the one a friend had.
 
George Jets said:
OK your stock 2 bbl carb runs 275 cfm, the Edelbrock 1406 4 bbl run 600 cfm.

Your stock cam and compression will pull in the added 300 cfm of the 1406 just fine. The tone of the engine will now deepen up as it is now getting the fuel that it needs.

More Fuel and cfm = more power.

Plus the 1406 will start, run, and perform better than your 50 year old, clogged up, economy 2 bbl.

Simple 2 to 4 4bbl adapter (20.00 bucks) then you keep your port matched to the heads intake manifold.

Have done this many times, wakes them right up, and they run so much nicer too.

Easy Peasy, and change your valve guide seals with the handy in the car tool.

View attachment 1715817692

View attachment 1715817693

1406 Carb, has electric choke too.
View attachment 1715817694

Points Distributor is fine for your setup too, just put in a new set of points.

View attachment 1715817696

This is what our car hobby is all about. Innovate cost effective solutions that we as car owners can do ourselves.

Now go and enjoy your ride.

☆☆☆☆☆
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George Jets -

Very informative, thanks for sharing. As a Mopar rookie I have a couple of question about this 4b conversion. We have a '64 Dart GT Convertible with a 273 and 3-speed push-button automatic. First question, are there any special considerations/requirements for the throttle and transmission linkage? Is it a direct hookup, or will modification be required? Second, how will this affect hood clearance?

Also, do you know the cold valve adjustment setting? I've always had good luck with pre-setting the valves when cold, then following up warm.

Thanks in advance!
 
hudskit said:
Good evening All,

I've just purchased a very clean 66 cuda that while being in pretty good shape also runs terribly. It's a 273 2 bbl car- automatic all original to the car but until I can pull this combination and replace with a mildly built 360 /380 that I already own I was wondering how to make this car a decent driver until I get around to doing the engine swap. My thoughts were as follows: electronic ignition to start- simple Mopar swap out unit - orange box. I've tested the compression - and it runs from 125 to 135 across the board but smokes some when it starts. I've read as much as i could about swapping over to a 4 bbl carb and simple intake to get a better running car - but the initial low compression of the 2 bbl motor makes me think that if i can find a set of "302" 360 heads I can up the compression, get a better fit to the 4 bbl manifold , change to an Isky e4 cam in there and top it off with a small 4 BBl - probably an AFB or similar and still not have to pull the engine itself and get a reasonably decent driver.

Thoughts, anyone?

View attachment 1715817422

View attachment 1715817423

View attachment 1715817425
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Since you asked here is my two cents. If you are going to swap the motor anyway, I would not swap the heads and especially not the cam. Inviting trouble with the cam.

Electronic ignition might help if there is a problem with the points distributor. Not a bad idea to swap for long term since it will work with the new engine as well.

If you can find a cheap 4bbl intake to work with your 273 then do the swap 2bbl carb you have needs work.

Most of the changes you outlined sound like a lot of work and money for something that will only get stuck in the corner of the shop at some point and collect dust.
 
Dart5150 said:
George Jets -

Very informative, thanks for sharing. As a Mopar rookie I have a couple of question about this 4b conversion. We have a '64 Dart GT Convertible with a 273 and 3-speed push-button automatic. First question, are there any special considerations/requirements for the throttle and transmission linkage? Is it a direct hookup, or will modification be required? Second, how will this affect hood clearance?

Also, do you know the cold valve adjustment setting? I've always had good luck with pre-setting the valves when cold, then following up warm.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
If you have a 64 that hasn't been messed with (cylinder heads changed to 66 and newer) You will need a 65 4 barrel manifold or an adapter like George Posted above. 64 and 65 273's had different cylinder heads where the intake bolts on. The bolts were smaller and at a different angle than the 66 and newer small blocks. As with any modification, you will have to modify the throttle linkage and possibly brackets and if you have an automatic transmission, the kickdown linkage as well. It isn't a plug and play deal.
 
toolmanmike said:
If you have a 64 that hasn't been messed with (cylinder heads changed to 66 and newer) You will need a 65 4 barrel manifold or an adapter like George Posted above. 64 and 65 273's had different cylinder heads where the intake bolts on. The bolts were smaller and at a different angle than the 66 and newer small blocks. As with any modification, you will have to modify the throttle linkage and possibly brackets and if you have an automatic transmission, the kickdown linkage as well. It isn't a plug and play deal.
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Good info, thanks.
 
mgoblue9798 said:
Since you asked here is my two cents. If you are going to swap the motor anyway, I would not swap the heads and especially not the cam. Inviting trouble with the cam.

Electronic ignition might help if there is a problem with the points distributor. Not a bad idea to swap for long term since it will work with the new engine as well.

If you can find a cheap 4bbl intake to work with your 273 then do the swap 2bbl carb you have needs work.

Most of the changes you outlined sound like a lot of work and money for something that will only get stuck in the corner of the shop at some point and collect dust.
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FYI, this is a 3 1/2 year old thread. I wonder what the original poster has done to his Barracuda by now? I see he hasn't been on this site since June of last year.
 
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