I've done a ton of research- so now I'm really confused....

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Build a 360 in the next years before you retires, put it in. Keep every bolt if the old motor in case you sell it the Complete stock motor will make the car more valuable.
 
Schumacher used to. You might get lucky looking for them
 
Just re-read your first post and it makes me wonder where you get your information...........302 casting heads did not come on 360's
 
The "302" heads are a good choice for raising the compression. Do not put 360 heads on it as they have big chambers and they will lower the compression, also the bigger ports and valves will hurt your low to midrange torque and throttle response.
I rarely use the red x but 302 heads will NOT raise compression over the stock 273 heads. The compression on those engines in created by the pistons.
 
Dan the Man- the heads I have found are the 4323302 - listed as 85-86 318 LA series heads - which I'm hoping will raise my compression ration a tad - is that correct?
No they won't raise compression.
 
OP says smokes when start up....those valve seals are long gone!!????? Minor thing and has little to do with whatever. If it has good compression spark and enough fuel... it should have the power it deserves!???
Every car don't need to run the 1/4 in flat!???:poke:
 
OP says smokes when start up....those valve seals are long gone!!????? Minor thing and has little to do with whatever. If it has good compression spark and enough fuel... it should have the power it deserves!???
Every car don't need to run the 1/4 in flat!???:poke:
I'm with you, those valve seals are very well toast. They get hard and brittle and break into pieces. The guides get a little loose and there's your oil.
 
I've read - as my post said waaaayyyyy too much research - that these heads have small valves - 1.78 /1.50 which is the same as the original heads valve sizes - but have an aggressively small "Fast Burn" chamber that runs around 10cc smaller than the original stock heads - which is my "cheat" to get a higher compression ration without pulling the motor itself with the bonus of hardened exhaust valve seats so no worries about gas....but I could be totally wrong which is my concern.

The combustion chambers are the same size and your 302 heads will flow less air which means less power.
 
The combustion chambers are the same size and your 302 heads will flow less air which means less power.
Exactly. The 302's are a nice replacement head for any 273 or 318 but they are not a cure all. Even the guys that bolted them on a 340 or 360, what small gain you may get with the closed chambers you will loose with the smaller ports.
 
OK your stock 2 bbl carb runs 275 cfm, the Edelbrock 1406 4 bbl run 600 cfm.

Your stock cam and compression will pull in the added 300 cfm of the 1406 just fine. The tone of the engine will now deepen up as it is now getting the fuel that it needs.

More Fuel and cfm = more power.

Plus the 1406 will start, run, and perform better than your 50 year old, clogged up, economy 2 bbl.

Simple 2 to 4 4bbl adapter (20.00 bucks) then you keep your port matched to the heads intake manifold.

Have done this many times, wakes them right up, and they run so much nicer too.

Easy Peasy, and change your valve guide seals with the handy in the car tool.

Screenshot_20200821-090527_Gallery.jpg


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1406 Carb, has electric choke too.
Screenshot_20200807-121328_Gallery.jpg


Points Distributor is fine for your setup too, just put in a new set of points.

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This is what our car hobby is all about. Innovate cost effective solutions that we as car owners can do ourselves.

Now go and enjoy your ride.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
OK your stock 2 bbl carb runs 275 cfm, the Edelbrock 1406 4 bbl run 600 cfm.

Your stock cam and compression will pull in the added 300 cfm of the 1406 just fine. The tone of the engine will now deepen up as it is now getting the fuel that it needs.

More Fuel and cfm = more power.

Plus the 1406 will start, run, and perform better than your 50 year old, clogged up, economy 2 bbl.

Simple 2 to 4 4bbl adapter (20.00 bucks) then you keep your port matched to the heads intake manifold.

Have done this many times, wakes them right up, and they run so much nicer too.

Easy Peasy, and change your valve guide seals with the handy in the car tool.

View attachment 1715817692

View attachment 1715817693

1406 Carb, has electric choke too.
View attachment 1715817694

Points Distributor is fine for your setup too, just put in a new set of points.

View attachment 1715817696

This is what our car hobby is all about. Innovate cost effective solutions that we as car owners can do ourselves.

Now go and enjoy your ride.

☆☆☆☆☆
The truth! Contact Halifaxhops here for quality ignition parts for your tune up. He also recurves distributors which makes a big difference in performance.
 
Really you can have two or three misadjusted valves and it would run like crap.. and if they're the original adjusters they have a tendency to back off..
I've yet to see a 273 or a slant 6 that didn't wake right up from a valve adjustment...
 
My first upgrade would be a dual master cylinder for the brakes....safety first! (67 4 drum spec) Then valve seals and a 4bbl performer intake would be my first upgrade engine wise and a Carter/edelbock 600. I think these have more low end than a Holley. Your year 273 has the common bolt holes. Save the heads..the 360 sized '302's are actually 308's and youll dump the compression with those. If your gonna cam it up, call a cam hotline and tell them your static compression, weight and rear. They can recommend a cam around your lower compression. I put a Herbert 'stage 2' on a low comp 318 and it really was an upgrade without any low end loss. Love the color! Is that silver or light blue?
 
Who makes headers with 1/1/2 inch primary tube diameter for an Early "A"???
TTI and Doug's headers should have them. I agree 100% that it's a nice car but the lack of parts for pre 68 and 73 and later A bodies is the reason why I afford them. The back window is pretty much impossible to find.
 
TTI and Doug's headers should have them. I agree 100% that it's a nice car but the lack of parts for pre 68 and 73 and later A bodies is the reason why I afford them. The back window is pretty much impossible to find.
I have seen back windows given away before. Not that hard to find. Pretty much impossible to ship though.
 
Best bang for the buck;
>For take-off; a hi-stall TC.
>For bottom end power; cylinder pressure.
>For everything else; bigger rear gears.
All the other things talked about require rpm to get the power; so if you're stuck with 2.73s and an 1800 stall, they are worthless until the rpm gets up. With 2.73s, 3500 is about 37 mph. I rest my case.
With a 3500 torque peak, your power peak will come in around 5000..... or 53mph.
With 2.73 gears your 4 bbl might start to open at 2500/26mph, but so what, the 2bbl was good to that at least, and it starts out at 1hp not 50.
Your 380hp engine will need a TC and gears anyway, so you might as well start there. The fastest way to blow an old tired engine is to start bolting go-fast stuff onto it; and so, is, IMO, a waste of time.
 
I passed on getting a clean 1967 barracuda simply because of the lack of replacement sheet metal, quarter panels, fenders and the grille for them is outta sight too
Can get sheet metal for every part of 67 -69 barracudas. Just restored a 67 had no problem with rear quarter right front and door skin.
 
Good evening All,

I've just purchased a very clean 66 cuda that while being in pretty good shape also runs terribly. It's a 273 2 bbl car- automatic all original to the car but until I can pull this combination and replace with a mildly built 360 /380 that I already own I was wondering how to make this car a decent driver until I get around to doing the engine swap. My thoughts were as follows: electronic ignition to start- simple Mopar swap out unit - orange box. I've tested the compression - and it runs from 125 to 135 across the board but smokes some when it starts. I've read as much as i could about swapping over to a 4 bbl carb and simple intake to get a better running car - but the initial low compression of the 2 bbl motor makes me think that if i can find a set of "302" 360 heads I can up the compression, get a better fit to the 4 bbl manifold , change to an Isky e4 cam in there and top it off with a small 4 BBl - probably an AFB or similar and still not have to pull the engine itself and get a reasonably decent driver.

Thoughts, anyone?

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Edelbrock 2176 and 1406 carb will work just fine, with a electric ignition you will be great!!!!! Good luck.
 
The 273 will run good when tuned up. do a compression check etc. Determine if the engine really needs to come out. It may need a timing chain etc. I'm lazy why pull an engine if you don't have to ...:lol:
 
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