Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

75slant6

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Good luck picking a color! There’s no bad option from the three that you’re debating, they all look great! I’ll definitely be watching how the whole process goes; might just have to dip my daily driver for that price!
 

JohnFM3

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Good luck picking a color! There’s no bad option from the three that you’re debating, they all look great! I’ll definitely be watching how the whole process goes; might just have to dip my daily driver for that price!

I wish I would have dipped my daily driver with a Matte Clear when I bought it. I would not be faced with the rock chip damage I am dealing with now if I had. I couldnt get pass the wife for approval.
 

JohnFM3

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I need some ideas on protecting bare metal from the rain for a short while.

On my heavy cast iron wood working tools, I use Johnson & Johnson paste wax to keep the cast iron from rusting. Those tools dont sit outside. My car has about 6 weeks of rain to deal with. I really did hit the body work early :-( But it felt so good to see it finally making headway. Now I just have a mess to stay on top of until I plasti dip it.

My other thought is to just hit the bare metal with rattle can rust converter and paint. Which would be small spots here and there.
 

75slant6

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I need some ideas on protecting bare metal from the rain for a short while.

On my heavy cast iron wood working tools, I use Johnson & Johnson paste wax to keep the cast iron from rusting. Those tools dont sit outside. My car has about 6 weeks of rain to deal with. I really did hit the body work early :-( But it felt so good to see it finally making headway. Now I just have a mess to stay on top of until I plasti dip it.

My other thought is to just hit the bare metal with rattle can rust converter and paint. Which would be small spots here and there.
Maybe buy a harbor freight paint gun and a gallon of epoxy primer and just strip a section of the car at a time, wipe it down with a tack cloth and get epoxy primer on that section. I think that’s what I would do in your situation anyway.
 

JohnFM3

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Maybe buy a harbor freight paint gun and a gallon of epoxy primer and just strip a section of the car at a time, wipe it down with a tack cloth and get epoxy primer on that section. I think that’s what I would do in your situation anyway.

Yeah, I am in damage control as pictures above show me already pulling the bad paint off. I need to take it off to make for a smooth surface for the plasti dip to bond too. I really want that to look decent while I work on the rest of the car. I am ending up with small 1 in bare metal spots thru out the car. My thought is the car will be in plasti dip for 2 yrs while I work on other aspects of the car to get it running as well as get some floor work done by a shop.

I have a nice paint gun, that just seems like way more effort for my needs unless I just want to start the body work now and spray primer/sealer as I move thru the car. My thought up till now has been to get it sealed in plasti dip then continue working on the road worthy parts of the car.
 

75slant6

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Yeah, I am in damage control as pictures above show me already pulling the bad paint off. I need to take it off to make for a smooth surface for the plasti dip to bond too. I really want that to look decent while I work on the rest of the car. I am ending up with small 1 in bare metal spots thru out the car. My thought is the car will be in plasti dip for 2 yrs while I work on other aspects of the car to get it running as well as get some floor work done by a shop.

I have a nice paint gun, that just seems like way more effort for my needs unless I just want to start the body work now and spray primer/sealer as I move thru the car. My thought up till now has been to get it sealed in plasti dip then continue working on the road worthy parts of the car.
My thinking is, in order to make the plasti dip really look good, you’re going to want to get the panels smooth. And in order to do that, I’d strip a section at a time down to bare metal as much as possible, spray it in epoxy to seal it and give you a base, then do your filler work over that. Once your filler work is done and the car is smooth like you want it, plasti dip it. Otherwise, I’d just leave the paint that’s on there as is until you’re ready to dig into it.
 

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Still waiting on fuel management harness and ECU. The last part of my exhaust showed up today. I now have the hi flow half cat converter. i received my single in / dual out muffler last friday. As well as my exhaust V Band straps over the weekend.

Remaining parts out for delivery today is the Flaming River steering U-Joint.

Then a quick purchase of a engine gasket set, a TJ Flywheel and clutch (probably YJ clutch as it comes with internal slave cyl), and the needs to make the steering linkage work around the oil pan.

More to come.
 

JohnFM3

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Does anyone have a recommendation for a auto-body stud welder? Used with slide hammer to pull dents out of panels. ~ John
 

JohnFM3

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I really feel STUPID, now I need guidance as to how to clean up a auto body mess. I would watch my old neighbor sand old cars down in their entirety showing alot of metal and start working on them even thru the winter months. And i never saw alot of rust showing up on bare metal. As such, I got excited when the car came home and decided to dig into prep'n the body at a time when I know it rains a bunch where I live. :-(

I live in Washington where we dont tan, we rust.

The existing black paint on my car was flaking off all over the place. For the plasti dip to take bond and protect the body the way I need it too, I had to remove the old paint and get down to as much of the original paint as possible. Other wise condensation would build up between the plasti dip and the body and I would have other issues. The high spots shown by bare metal exposed to the air and rain are rusting now. So far I can remove it with just water and my hand. I would consider it minor, but I have to resolve this before it becomes a huge issue.

When I had to clean my cast iron wood tools from rust, I used a scotch bright pad and WD-40 to clean the metal then follow up with Johnsons and Johnsons paste wax to protect the metal. And those tools sit in a non insulated wood shop and when I care for them with proper waxing, they stay in great shape.

Anyone believe that cleaning the metal with steel wool followed by Rattle Can Rust Converter and rattle can paint would be a good solution to protect the car in prep for plasti dip?

For a cleaning solution, I can use Mild Detergent, Mineral Spirits, WD-40, or any combination.

I bought a Vevor stud welding kit for pulling dents out of my body. I was going to do some of that during this process to make use of this time to clean up the body more. In the end I suspect the car will be going to a body shop for final work. I am just trying to do as much as I can, mainly for pride reasons, to say I did a majority of this I could.

Can anyone offer any DIY options which I should consider? I may be stuck cleaning this up and spraying etching primer/sealer now. And my car is not in a garage, so this would be done outside... :-(

Thanks,
John
 

Killer6

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I really feel STUPID, now I need guidance as to how to clean up a auto body mess. I would watch my old neighbor sand old cars down in their entirety showing alot of metal and start working on them even thru the winter months. And i never saw alot of rust showing up on bare metal. As such, I got excited when the car came home and decided to dig into prep'n the body at a time when I know it rains a bunch where I live. :-(

I live in Washington where we dont tan, we rust.

The existing black paint on my car was flaking off all over the place. For the plasti dip to take bond and protect the body the way I need it too, I had to remove the old paint and get down to as much of the original paint as possible. Other wise condensation would build up between the plasti dip and the body and I would have other issues. The high spots shown by bare metal exposed to the air and rain are rusting now. So far I can remove it with just water and my hand. I would consider it minor, but I have to resolve this before it becomes a huge issue.

When I had to clean my cast iron wood tools from rust, I used a scotch bright pad and WD-40 to clean the metal then follow up with Johnsons and Johnsons paste wax to protect the metal. And those tools sit in a non insulated wood shop and when I care for them with proper waxing, they stay in great shape.

Anyone believe that cleaning the metal with steel wool followed by Rattle Can Rust Converter and rattle can paint would be a good solution to protect the car in prep for plasti dip?

For a cleaning solution, I can use Mild Detergent, Mineral Spirits, WD-40, or any combination.

I bought a Vevor stud welding kit for pulling dents out of my body. I was going to do some of that during this process to make use of this time to clean up the body more. In the end I suspect the car will be going to a body shop for final work. I am just trying to do as much as I can, mainly for pride reasons, to say I did a majority of this I could.

Can anyone offer any DIY options which I should consider? I may be stuck cleaning this up and spraying etching primer/sealer now. And my car is not in a garage, so this would be done outside... :-(

Thanks,
John
Evaporust, follow the instructions, then prime...used to be about $22 a gal., now who knows. I'm down to the last couple, guess I'll find out soon.
 

JohnFM3

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Evaporust, follow the instructions, then prime...used to be about $22 a gal., now who knows. I'm down to the last couple, guess I'll find out soon.

The Evaporust I use is a liquid which I let parts soak in a bin with. Is there a version which is like Naval Jelly? ~ John
 

Killer6

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The Evaporust I use is a liquid which I let parts soak in a bin with. Is there a version which is like Naval Jelly? ~ John
No, the instructions are to soak a towel(s) to cover the area. I would tape plastic sheet around the area first, then put the towel in like a pocket & saturate it, then use magnets to close the top of the plastic.
 

JohnFM3

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No, the instructions are to soak a towel(s) to cover the area. I would tape plastic sheet around the area first, then put the towel in like a pocket & saturate it, then use magnets to close the top of the plastic.

Good to know. Thanks.
 

JohnFM3

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Ok, the Jeep shop building my ODB2 wiring harness made a recommendation regarding my brakes which I am bringing to the forum.

While calling Summit Racing about steel braided lines for my barracuda brakes, they recommended a "Right Stuff" brake kit including the following...
Brake Booster
74 era Mopar Disk Brake Master Cyl
Proportioning Valve
Metal Brake Lines

My Jeep source is recommending a Hydro boost system with a Corvette Master Cyl and a Wilwood Proportioning Valve. And some form of brake lines.

For those unaware of Hydro Boost, its used on very large trucks (over 1 ton) and built up off road jeeps. It uses the power steering pump connected to the hydro boost brake booster. This booster is much smaller than a factory vacuum booster. He has done this on one of his Ford Muscle Cars, as well as a couple of his clients.

I will be honest, I am kind of interested in considering a hydro boost setup. Though since I would be having this custom built, going with the factory mopar era brake cyl. The shop which sells this setup, has a tried and true combination with the corvette master cyl which they stand by, they build the adapter between the booster and my firewall.

Thoughts?

Thanks, John
 

Cruisingram

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I think this guy may be a 4wheel guy pretty hardcore! I don't know about the cost of what he is suggesting, but you can get a nice kit bbp from Dr diff for under a thou.
 

my68barracuda

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I have 4 wheel disk brakes on my 68 Barracuda. 73 and up disks on the front, Dr Diff disk kit on the back. Built slant six, used on the street, drag strip and autocross. No power brakes. Have never felt that I did not have enough stopping power.
 

Cruisingram

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I have 4 wheel disk brakes on my 68 Barracuda. 73 and up disks on the front, Dr Diff disk kit on the back. Built slant six, used on the street, drag strip and autocross. No power brakes. Have never felt that I did not have enough stopping power.
Yeah I am staying with manual Dr diff as well.
 

JohnFM3

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I had a 72 ply duster with a built up slant six and manual brakes (F Disk/R Drum). After building the engine and updating the gear ratio from 2.73 to 3.23 in the axle, I instantly didnt like the brake feel and updated to Vacuum operated Power Brakes. Especially on Western Washington mountain roads.

I will not run manual brakes again.

I am planning on keeping the front disk / rear drum configuration only this time instead of OEM rear drums, I am running larger 1992 Ford 8.8 rear drums from a Ranger.
 

memike

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Have you ever heard Vixen's slant 6? Single, 2.5" TTI exhaust. Stock exhaust manifold ported and opened up to a 2.5" outlet.


How have I missed this, she sounds VERY healthy and set up great, outstanding Sound and so smoot at the same time.
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

Cruisingram

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I had a 72 ply duster with a built up slant six and manual brakes (F Disk/R Drum). After building the engine and updating the gear ratio from 2.73 to 3.23 in the axle, I instantly didnt like the brake feel and updated to Vacuum operated Power Brakes. Especially on Western Washington mountain roads.

I will not run manual brakes again.

I am planning on keeping the front disk / rear drum configuration only this time instead of OEM rear drums, I am running larger 1992 Ford 8.8 rear drums from a Ranger.

For manual brakes, you still have to upgrade to the bigger diameter MC , or you get this problem. With the bigger MC, I never noticed the difference honestly. Well, not quite, the vacuum brakes have a touchier feel to them.

Also- my biggest thing is not having that huge brake booster in the engine compartment LOL.
 

JohnFM3

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In my
For manual brakes, you still have to upgrade to the bigger diameter MC , or you get this problem. With the bigger MC, I never noticed the difference honestly. Well, not quite, the vacuum brakes have a touchier feel to them.

Also- my biggest thing is not having that huge brake booster in the engine compartment LOL.

In my 72, I was running all 74 era single piston front brake components including the MC and Power booster.

I believe in my prior experience I gave every chance possible to keep Manual brakes as I had built a slant six and was worried about vacuum pressure. Even kept manual steering. In the end, the brakes were re done as Power Brakes and ended up working better than wanted. I wont look back. Power Brakes is a must in my opinion.

John
 

my68barracuda

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In my


In my 72, I was running all 74 era single piston front brake components including the MC and Power booster.

I believe in my prior experience I gave every chance possible to keep Manual brakes as I had built a slant six and was worried about vacuum pressure. Even kept manual steering. In the end, the brakes were re done as Power Brakes and ended up working better than wanted. I wont look back. Power Brakes is a must in my opinion.

John
It’s your car,,,,
 

Cruisingram

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In my


In my 72, I was running all 74 era single piston front brake components including the MC and Power booster.

I believe in my prior experience I gave every chance possible to keep Manual brakes as I had built a slant six and was worried about vacuum pressure. Even kept manual steering. In the end, the brakes were re done as Power Brakes and ended up working better than wanted. I wont look back. Power Brakes is a must in my opinion.

John

Totally get it- you like what you like etc. I have to say- side by side on my two A bodies, with the MC that Dr Diff has, vs power booster, my wife, who is not a car person, says the only difference is that the power brake system is "touchier"
 
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