Jeep Cherokee 8 1/4 to an A body ?

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my68barracuda

my68barracuda

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saw the topic in the brake section of this forum on fitting Jeep Cherokee rear disks to a 8.25 rear, as I plan to replace the stock 7.25 on this 68 Barracuda with an 8.25, that looks to be the way to go. Found two Cherokee candidates in the local pull a part,, I don't have the 8.25 rear so,, instead of just the disk brake package, should I get the complete rear axel and diff? Did not think of this at the time, so I did not measure the Cherokee flange to flange, does anyone know how it compares to the 7.25 width. Certainly I'll have to fix the spring perches,, would this work?,, anyone know what ratios were used in the Jeep Cherokees?

thanks
 
Im not sure on the specs of the jeep rear, but some ratios are 3.55(most commo) and 3.73s, another option i hate to say it is a phord 8.8 yuck.. I have the same issue with my 68 dart it has the 7.25 rear, i also have a phord 8.8 from an exp. I can meassure it for you, and they come with drum or disc 5x4.5 and traction loc LS w/3.55s 0r 3.73s

I would go all mopar, but if you cant find one, and your a cheap azz like me a phord 8.8 may work, they are cheap as well..

post what you find out cuz i wanna do this swap to as well.

thanks

Don
 
The Ford 8.8 is slightly narrower than the D35, measuring 59.75" WMS-WMS vs 61.25" for the D35-eqipped XJ (WMS is wheel-mounting surface). This means each side is going to be 3/4" narrower. While the narrower rear can mean tighter turns on trails, it also means the tires may make contact with the inner fenderwells unless you use spacers or rims with less backspacing
 
7 ¼
Junk…read no more. Introduced in 1960; it was a low performance axle for /6 and small V8 cars. Before you swap this unit out put some slicks on your car..rev up the engine good and launch real hard a few dozen times. Or street race your car for a night or two, or objective here is to blow it up.
The rear end will eventually go KABOOM. Lots of fun for all….bring a tow strap so you can get home. Casting numbers # 2070051, 3507881, 3723675
Info: 1 3/8" Pinion stem, 9 bolt cover, 55.6" width (flange to flange) / 53.2" housing flange to flange / 43.02" spring seat center to center.
SPECIAL NOTE: The 7 ¼ housing axle tubes are smaller in diameter than other units so the u-bolts and spring plates are useless if converting to a larger axle (i.e. 7 1/4 to 8 1/4, 8 3/4 or bigger).
8 ¼
Introduced in 1969. This rear end will be found in all Darts / Valients from 73 - 76 and also can be found in 340 Dusters and other A bodies. There is a sure -grip available beginning in 1973. This axle while not a real high performance piece is certainly good enough for a mild street car. So if you go for a disk brake swap and are pulling out those spindles etc. out of your 73-76 donor car just grab the rear and you will have a nice 4.5" wheel pattern all around and way better brakes to boot. Sure-grip units are commonly found in Diplomat cop cars throughout the 80's but that rear end is a bit harder to install than the 73 -76 due to the strange leaf spring mounting pads. These pads can be cut off the axle and replaced with more conventional ones if you wish. If your short on cash and you can't afford to get a 8 ¾ or find the time to locate the long 8 ¾ axles for re-splining the 8 1/4 is a real nice alternative for a while and CHEAP in the yards ($50.00 non sure-grip and $125.00 sure-grip here in Texas). You may never blow up the 8 1/4 with a mild small block street car.
Castings: 2852905, 3723598, 3723599
Info: 1 5/8 pinion, 57.6" wide, 10 bolt cover, 55.6" width (flange to flange) / 51.4 housing flange to flange / 43.02 spring seat center to center.
 
thanks, great info
I like to one stop shop, if I can get rear disks and and axle( with a 3.55 or lower) in one pull, thats a good day, Vehicle will be a warmed up slant six, so a 8.25 will handle the job, from what I have read here I'll end up trimming the axles, housing as I want options concerning wheels / fit to the body.
 
Dakota_Don said:
The Ford 8.8 is slightly narrower than the D35, measuring 59.75" WMS-WMS vs 61.25" for the D35-eqipped XJ (WMS is wheel-mounting surface). This means each side is going to be 3/4" narrower. While the narrower rear can mean tighter turns on trails, it also means the tires may make contact with the inner fenderwells unless you use spacers or rims with less backspacing
Click to expand...

Don,
When you measure the 8.8 rear are you including the rotors? If so that only makes it .50" wider than a B-body rear (59.20"). I have put a B-body rear in a 71 duster, and I doubt the extra .25" would make any difference with stock wheels and tires. Will the 8.8 rear work with stock mopar rallyes, will they clear the rear calipers and is the center hole in the rim the right size? Sounds like an interesting--and cheap swap.
 
Beware of offset differentials. Overall width isn't the only factor. Axle tube lengths vary. Hope this helps.
 
as red fish mentioned watch for diff offsets, i have the phord 8.8 for my dakota, so im not sure of the dart width, but 8.8s come in small vans, exps, rangers ect..

the 8.8 from the exp is a little narrower then the dak, witch will give me 5 on 4.5 and a different wheel backspacing.. not sure if any of this info helps, if the 8.8 rear from the exp has a different offset then your dart, you can always cut and respline one axels shaft and housing..

maybe someone here has done this
 
The jeeps have an overdrive transmission so most of the jeeps have 3.55 or numerically higher gear ratios. Really check your local salvage yard good for a rear end. I went to my local salvage yard and asked if they had an 8 1/4 out of an Abody and they said no we havent had one for years, as a kid i remembered old darts, mopars, etc... there so i went to there rear end pile way out in the corner of the field and underneath two truck dana 60s i saw it and knew exactly what it was. I measered it out and sure enough it was an A body 8 1/4.

My 8 1/4 is a 27 spline axle 2.71 non suregrip, the beauty of the 8 1/4 is that you can make it as strong as an 8 3/4 but it will be lighter weight through the use of the rear cover to support the main caps, rear end brace which bolts on to the rear cover and upgrade to a 29 spline suregrip from a dakota or jeep and have custom 29 spline axles made. Also you can upgrade to rear discs. And all this is all mopar and mostly stock

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looks good
time wise I am a year away from doing this rear end change, but I am looking around for parts and asking questions so I can have it lined out when ready.

walking through the salvage yard I stumbled across a 8 3/4 rear end, just the housing, no center section or axels,, have not measured it, but its too wide for an A body,, I want to go the 8 1/4 route, but I picked up the 8 3/4 housing anyway,, I'm a easy mark for a cheap price,,



thanks again
 
correct me if im wrong, but i beleive you can cut down the 8.75 rear and use the 8.250 axels ect..

oh the 8.8 rear i messured has drum brakes not disc.. but rear disc would be kool on a dart.. I picked up my 8.8 for 75 bucks, with tru lock and 3.73 gears and 57k miles.. still not sure if i wanna use in my dak or not..
 
Dakota_Don said:
correct me if im wrong, but i beleive you can cut down the 8.75 rear and use the 8.250 axels ect..

oh the 8.8 rear i messured has drum brakes not disc.. but rear disc would be kool on a dart.. I picked up my 8.8 for 75 bucks, with tru lock and 3.73 gears and 57k miles.. still not sure if i wanna use in my dak or not..
Click to expand...

Don,
Is that 8.8 rear end offset?
 
RPMmachine, nice interchange.... but I think someone threw up in your trunk, so be careful opening it up :angry7:
 
Yeah the explorer 8.8 is offset, another option is a Ranger 8.8, the diff is centered and is the same width as an A body rear but they have 28 spline axles and trac loks are not as common.

I wanted an 8.25 for my Dart but after 2 years I ended up going with the explorer disc brake rear, I had the Dr side narrowed and run 2 pass side short axles, by doing that it centers the diff and makes it about 1/2" narrower overall than an A body rear. I have about $225 in the whole thing and used a friends jig to line up the tubes.
 
That is a great idea! I never thought of just shortening one side and adding a 2nd stock short axle to that side. Then you get disc brakes easy as well right? I think my search for a cheap 95 up explorer limited slip has just begun. Looks like complete 8.8 setup is about $300, another axle about $50. Narrow it, move the spring pads, get a u-joint converter for the front, and then get the driveshaft narrowed. Seems like about $600 total for a low ratio, strong gear, posi setup with disc brakes!
 
MoparJoe20 said:
Yeah the explorer 8.8 is offset, another option is a Ranger 8.8, the diff is centered and is the same width as an A body rear but they have 28 spline axles and trac loks are not as common.

I wanted an 8.25 for my Dart but after 2 years I ended up going with the explorer disc brake rear, I had the Dr side narrowed and run 2 pass side short axles, by doing that it centers the diff and makes it about 1/2" narrower overall than an A body rear. I have about $225 in the whole thing and used a friends jig to line up the tubes.
Click to expand...

Moparjoe,
Will the disc brake setup from explorer 8.8's bolt on to the ranger rear in place of the drums? If it will, a disc brake rear with no narrowing needed would be really easy.
 
Yeah the brakes swap, my Dad's 98 Ranger has an 8.8 and uses 97 explorer discs, he had to change the E brake cables but they have to be changed anyways on an A body.
 
I know it’s an old thread but I’m looking right now at rear end choices.
Really great thread!
I love how innovative and informative the members on here are!!!
Thanks for the info!
 
Is there a chart somewhere that shows the 8.8 and 8.25 widths?

I have a 73 B body 318 and don't really need an 8 3/4.

A 3.55 SG 8.25 sounds like a good choice but a 73 B is wide.
 
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