Just thinking about race oil filters...

[Krooser]

I have had good luck with WIX oil fiters over the years...race and stock stuff.

The oil filter flow specs is an important thing to know.

Did a little checking...the std. Wix 5151 flows 7-9 gallons oer minute... the 51515R flows 28 gallons per minute. Same media.

I'd like to see how much smaller parts can get fiotered out in the 5151... not that I would use it in a race motor.

 

[jbc426]

I have had good luck with WIX oil fiters over the years...race and stock stuff.

The oil filter flow specs is an important thing to know.

Did a little checking...the std. Wix 5151 flows 7-9 gallons oer minute... the 51515R flows 28 gallons per minute. Same media.

I'd like to see how much smaller parts can get fiotered out in the 5151... not that I would use it in a race motor.

I only run Jomar 100% No-Bypass filters on my "Race/hot street" motors. It saved my bottom end when I had all the needle bearings get blown out of my exhaust rocker arms due to bad valve train harmonics.

Professional Filter Test Results

 

[Mattax]

Have you looked gone through the oil filter thread on YB ?
I don't recall if they got filtration info from Wix, but the info from Baldwin provides a solid baseline to from.
The Anatomy of an Oil Filter: Part 1 .........

 

[ChargedDart75]

If I'm not mistaken, the micron rating is far different as well. I think the standard Wix is 21 micron while the Racing version is 61, so I'd imagine that has to effect the flow ratings. I'm just surprised that the Racing version is so high in the micron rating.

 

[flyfish]

If I'm not mistaken, the micron rating is far different as well. I think the standard Wix is 21 micron while the Racing version is 61, so I'd imagine that has to effect the flow ratings. I'm just surprised that the Racing version is so high in the micron rating.

I was just going to say the same thing, race version is 60 micron while the standard is 20 micron.

I run the standard on my low 10 second car....no problems at all.

 

[65wgn440]

I just installed the Wix race filter and am going to remove it very soon. Carrying a little too much oil pressure now. The race filter is pretty much advertised by Wix as a, one race then done, type filter. I got it cheap and installed it before really knowing much about it. With my change in oil pressure, guessing that filter is not filtering much, as proven by the specs on it.

 

[jbc426]

To me, it doesn't really matter what the micron rating of the oil filter is if the majority of the oil is bypassing the filter through the bypass valves in those filters most of the time. Even if it only bypasses the filter for a fraction of the time, it's still not filtering the oil 100% of the time.

Not sure why anyone would use anything but a no bypass filter on virtually anything but a pure stock street car. I understand they are not a good for every application as you potentially would have reduced oil flow at all after a long oil change interval with no ability to bypass.

If it's ok, why not bypass your fuel filter some % of the time? You can get away from issues for a while, but it will come back to bite you.

 

[Demonx2]

A properly designed oil filter will only bypass under a cold start condition when oil pressure is high due to cold and thick oil. Once warmed up, if the bypass valve is set properly, and there is no blockage, and the filter is designed to flow the amount you're trying to flow, the bypass will remain closed. Think of the filter media as providing a pressure drop that increases with flow. So long as the filter is designed to flow the volume your engine flows, and that flow volume has a filter pressure drop below the bypass setting, the bypass will remain closed. The risk with a no bypass filter is potentially starving oil flow when you can't push enough oil through the media. You can also balloon or even burst the filter can.
The problem we all have is getting the specs on the filters and knowing what our engines actually flow. So we guess the flow and go from there.

 

[4spdragtop]

I've no experience in this, but from what I've read and know(water treatment /filtration), it looks like it's a "balancing" act between good oil psi(higher micron rating) vs "clean" oil(smaller microns, thus "clogging" up sooner)

 

[65wgn440]

A properly designed oil filter will only bypass under a cold start condition when oil pressure is high due to cold and thick oil. Once warmed up, if the bypass valve is set properly, and there is no blockage, and the filter is designed to flow the amount you're trying to flow, the bypass will remain closed. Think of the filter media as providing a pressure drop that increases with flow. So long as the filter is designed to flow the volume your engine flows, and that flow volume has a filter pressure drop below the bypass setting, the bypass will remain closed. The risk with a no bypass filter is potentially starving oil flow when you can't push enough oil through the media. You can also balloon or even burst the filter can.
The problem we all have is getting the specs on the filters and knowing what our engines actually flow. So we guess the flow and go from there.

Yes, the cold start/no bypass feature of the Wix race filter is what drew me to that filter in the first place. I run a no choke/ no thermostat, HV pump, solid
lifter set-up, so cold start filtration is an issue for me

 

[jbc426]

Yes, the cold start/no bypass feature of the Wix race filter is what drew me to that filter in the first place. I run a no choke/ no thermostat, HV pump, solid
lifter set-up, so cold start filtration is an issue for me

Agreed. I wondered about the cold start function when using a no-bypass filter, but the Jomars build oil pressure as quickly as a standard design filter on start up.

I considered running two of them in parallel on a remote mounted filter manifold for even more flow but never bothered, because they flow such a high volume of oil by themselves. They also have a very thick housing/casing for anti-burst duty. As a result, it takes significantly an effort to cut them open.