I am currently in process of taking the 6.4 hemi in and out of my duster a thousand times due to trying to make everything fit. I am going in and out via the k frame. I have noticed that there is quite a bit of play in the k frame around the 4 bolts. When bolts are not tight you can manipulate the K frame around. Is this correct or should the bolts pull the k frame into a fixed position?
K frame alignment
- Thread starter Ozyduster
- Start date
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340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Are you using original bolts with the shoulder/collar on them?
Yes original bolts with shoulders on them. But when you look at the k frame holes they are bigger than the shoulders on the bolts. How snug should the bolts be in the k frame holes
The original bolts have a tapered shoulder that centers the k-member holes to the threads in the rail
Yes mine are she soulders style bolts but the bolts definetly sloppy in the individual holes. Once you have 4 in and pulled up on to the shoulders there is play in the k frame..... very minimal however.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
The K Frame in my '69 the tapered shouldered bolts don't allow any movement.
A56
Street Survivor
I would frown at any movement of the K-member once tightened.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I think he saying the holes in k frame are bigger then tapered shoulders on bolts so bolts don't locate k frame prior to tightening. So as he removes replaces k frame the k frame is not located consistently. K frame in my car it does not move once the bolt's tapered shoulders are through k frame holes.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I noticed this play while reinstalling the K-members on my E & A Bodies too. I began to measure the K-member's relative position on the frame rails prior to torquing the 4 shouldered, factory bolts down.
Ever since I switch from installing engines & transmissions from the bottom instead of dropping it in from the top, I began drilling small holes to insert a drill bit end to more easily align the K-Member before torquing it down upon re-installation.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I just get 'em close to snug, hook a ratchet strap at the center rear somewhere, and pull it to the rear before I tighten 'em down. If the holes in the subframes are crooked, I ain't gonna unfudge that, no matter what.
Then it can't shift if I hit the brakes hard.
Then it can't shift if I hit the brakes hard.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I've seen posts where people use spacers between the K-member and the frame rails to gain more air cleaner clearance, so even more room for change at the K-member. I was considering doing that with 1/4" plates, but I can still close my hood without hitting the 4 inch air hat on the throttle body.
I wonder how much you can add before alignment issues in that direction?
I wonder how much you can add before alignment issues in that direction?
Thats a great idea the slop is a only a bees dick. But enough that if i remove engine etc after alignments etc would need redoing i like your idea as keeps consistency.
correct once its on the shoulders there is a small amount of movement. Obviously once tightened there is nothing. That would be worrying lol. Just means lack of consistency if taking in and out
Like has already been stated .
The bolts have a taper,,,not a shoulder .
The taper is what locates the K frame .
Of course after 50-60 years,,,,I guess the K frame holes could be oversized by now .
Does anyone have any pics of correct bolts,,,as a reference ?
Tommy
The bolts have a taper,,,not a shoulder .
The taper is what locates the K frame .
Of course after 50-60 years,,,,I guess the K frame holes could be oversized by now .
Does anyone have any pics of correct bolts,,,as a reference ?
Tommy
That’s Them !!!
I guess to be fair they are a shoulder bolt .
They begin as a taper and then graduate into a shoulder .
Tommy
I guess to be fair they are a shoulder bolt .
They begin as a taper and then graduate into a shoulder .
Tommy
rklein383
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I have to admit, I have never checked the k frame for orientation, threw them in and bolted them, never gave it any thought. Could be wrong for not checking I guess.
Yea thats the same bolts as mine, shoulder/tapper same thing lol. But yep potentially worn the holes. Just wanted to make sure i wasn't missing anything. I probably over thinking it to be honest but spent a lot of coin on all the suspension so want to get it as good as i can
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Look at the k-frame, three of the four holes are slotted, only one is round. The round one should be the same size as the shoulder, the slotted ones should be the same width as the shoulder. The is to make up for manufacturing tolerances.
Alan
Alan
So is the torque the same for all the bolts?
yes
That's a good point.. That will be noted for when I reinstall mine..
AbodyBB
Well-Known Member
Just a suggestion but weld some locating tabs to the frame rails. Then it won’t matter what the bolts do…
Yep i like this idea as i will always remove motor out of the k frame would mean dont have to realign suspension etc
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