Dose anyone make the sleeve that could be welded in the K-frame where the lower control arm stud is bolted in? I have 2 K-frames that are broken/missing these sleeves and would like to repair them. i need a good strong one for my dirt track car. Only k-frame i found close the guy wants 250$ for it thats just to much.:wack:
K-frame LCA stud "sleeve"
- Thread starter mod5v
- Start date
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Southernman
Well-Known Member
Mod, I would suggest looking at the nearest steel supply house that specializes in the sale of 'all things metal'. We have such a place here in Raleigh, and you can buy pipe/tubing in just about any size imaginable.
Remember, pipe is quoted by ID and tubing is quoted as OD. While it's been a while since I've measured any of the k-member components, I'm willing to bet you can find material with the desired ID. From there you can select the wall thickness you want.
I hope this helps and good luck with that race car !
Southernman
340duster
Well-Known Member
Get a piece of tubing to match to the od of the LCA stud and weld it in with a big flat washer on each side. The ID will pound out over time on a dirt car anyway. If you beef it with the washers at least it won't break out. They are not tapered to my knowledge. On my A-body dirt car I spent alot of time on the kmember, I did put new sleeves in the RF. Gusset the steering box mount as well. There is a circle track section on moparchat that would be of great help to you.
Also eliminate the lower rubber bump stop as this will bottom out and cause a push. I even notched the frame to give me a little more travel. F body Spindles lower the roll center plus give more camber as the rf pushes down. Use only Poly bushings as the rubber ones disappear quickly. Replace the strut rod bushing with a heim joint or I did it with a ball joint. Those bushings allow too much foreward and backward movement while braking and hard cornering. Just some thoughts. I built and raced an abody on dirt for 6 years and won quite a few trophies.
Also eliminate the lower rubber bump stop as this will bottom out and cause a push. I even notched the frame to give me a little more travel. F body Spindles lower the roll center plus give more camber as the rf pushes down. Use only Poly bushings as the rubber ones disappear quickly. Replace the strut rod bushing with a heim joint or I did it with a ball joint. Those bushings allow too much foreward and backward movement while braking and hard cornering. Just some thoughts. I built and raced an abody on dirt for 6 years and won quite a few trophies.
Racingduster
Certified Welder
I have a damaged k member that should have the tub still in it. I could torch them out and mail them to you.? I would need to double check the k member before I make any promises tho haha
Ok so it sound as tho the "sleeves are not taperd so I will get some tub or solid round stock and make some sleeves. Thank you all for your thoughts and offers. I am a member over on the mopar chat sight. I have raced mopars on the dirt before. I started in a 73 charger in 1987 and by 91 was racing mopar powered modifieds. I haven't raced for 4 years and am building a entry level "hobby stock" to get back into it I just miss it a lot. I'll keep ya updated on the progress.
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