K frame lowering blocks

Mopar General Discussions

  1. Oldmanmopar

    Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

    Messages:
    8,635
    Likes Received:
    4916
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2009
    Location:
    Danielsville Pa. 18038
    Local Time:
    4:36 AM

    How much air flow do you need on a /6. The spacers are cheap? What about all the other work and parts involved. Did you lower your K-member ? I didn't think so. You have no clue of the what would be involved on that old car. He said he was worried about modifying the hood. What about the bottom of that intake setting on the shock tower/stud . I can think of 4 things he'll have to modify or change after he puts those spacers in.

    And that little super charged Omni. It probably flowed more then a built slant. Flow was no problem at all. Still had to modify the hood. Had two different carbs 500 holley and a 750 carter . Hat on or off no flow problem at all.

    aomni12%5B1%5D[1].jpg

    1.JPG
     
  2. gregcon

    gregcon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    385
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Local Time:
    3:36 AM
    Well, as I said, I actually have used spacers. Not for a Slant Six, but I'm not a snob...I've been a Mopar guy long enough to recognize that the lowliest Valiant with the smallest Slant is every bit as righteous as the fabled Hemi Cuda.

    You see, a supercharged engine might tolerate a hat far better than a naturally aspirated engine. After all, you are forcing air, not sucking it.

    I'm very well aware of those old cars. The intake will hit the shock tower? No way. And even if it did...well, that's why it's called hot rodding. Maybe he swapped one problem for another. That's exactly what hot rodding is.

    Stuff sticking out of hoods is acceptable when you have no other choice. Otherwise, it stops being cool the day you turn 20 years old. Holes are easy. Making it fit under the hood is for grown-ups.
     
  3. brian6pac

    brian6pac Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,792
    Likes Received:
    3243
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2016
    Location:
    N.E.Ohio
    Local Time:
    4:36 AM
    I bet if you put one end of the T-bar in the crossmember with out a LCA in, you could move the T-bar up and down a good 2"
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
    • Dave_J

      Dave_J Active Member

      Messages:
      42
      Likes Received:
      37
      Joined:
      Nov 27, 2019
      Location:
      Auburn, WA
      Local Time:
      1:36 AM
      When I dropped my K-Member on my 1965 Dart GT it was due to using a real tall manifold and spacer on my 273. The tall air cleaner would not fit and the dropped base air cleaner hit the AFB. I was also using 340 A body Iron header and it was hitting before I dropped the K member.

      I used 4 large nuts (7/8 wrench head and 7/8 inch long unmodified) and ground down to 3/4" tall. I then put the K-member up in and then tack welded the nuts to the frame real good. The K-members taper for the bolts still kept the unit from moving.

      Nothing needed major modifying to fit.
      1. The Z-bar for the clutch would have worked but in stock it was miss-aligned so I slotted the bracket that bolted to the frame.
      2. The Torsion bars fit well, slid in with a slight tap with my deadblow hammer.
      3. Steering shaft fit after i just loosened up the firewall bolts and relaxed the slop in the housing.
      4. Brake struts to lower control arm were a bit tight so all I did was loosen the nut in the K-member and re tightened it. I was using Poly bushings so just a re settiling was needed, no binding.
      5. Trans fit fine as did the driveshaft angle.
      6. I did need to screw the torsion bar bolt in the LCA out a few turns to lower the front the amount of raise the body gained. Alignment shop had to adjust the Camber and toe just a bit but nothing drastic. It was still in spec but not where I wanted it.

      The only difference in handling was before this was if I hammered the brakes, the nose dropped a lot. After dropping the front did not dive as much so the car stopped shorter.

      EDIT:
      This Dart GT went from Seattle Area to Ft Devens Mass for a military school, back to Seattle and then to Augusta GA where I drove it 2 years and traded it in for my 84 Shelby. So well over 10,000 miles after I dropped the K-member with no ill effects.
       
      Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
      • Like Like x 1
      • kursplat

        kursplat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

        Messages:
        3,358
        Likes Received:
        2243
        Joined:
        Aug 24, 2010
        Location:
        so cal
        Local Time:
        1:36 AM
        some of y'all should go read her thread, and see what's she's actually building, to understand why some things are not appropriate to the build
         
      • Oldmanmopar

        Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

        Messages:
        8,635
        Likes Received:
        4916
        Joined:
        Jan 8, 2009
        Location:
        Danielsville Pa. 18038
        Local Time:
        4:36 AM
        That end of the carburetor is still the draw side. The bottom of the Supercharger is the pressure side. Your thinking pro-charger. That's not a blow through.

        I gave my opinion on lowering the K-member that is all. Thats a lot of work when a air hat is one wingnut.

        Engine clearance for a header or tunnel fitment is a different reason. Myself I would still do other changes. I just would never change suspension geometry on a street car. Track car maybe street car? No.

        Just my opinion you all can do what ever you want. I would say air hat is what I would try. Originally I had a plastic one on the omni . I got it off of a new van $5.00 at a U-Pull-It. I bought the spector for appearance because it still came through the hood. I bought the 2.2 charger fake cowl hood and it still didn't cover it.

        My Duster I originally cut the hood for that factory air cleaner ram air system that was in a old mopar action magazine. After I installed the Indy intake I had to make a breather or it would have been to tall. Same car just orange at the end of its life Started life Bahama Yellow.

        spoiler pics 641.jpg

        DSCN1683.jpg
         
        Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
      • moparmat2000

        moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

        Messages:
        16,882
        Likes Received:
        5867
        Joined:
        May 13, 2010
        Location:
        Grand Tetons
        Local Time:
        3:36 AM
        Honestly, use an air cleaner with a dropped base if you dont want a hole in the hood, and if your wanting it to sit up a little higher in the front, turn up the torsion bars a little to make the front sit a little higher. If your going for a 60s gasser look, then why not a hood scoop? Buy a second flat hood, and cut one of em up.

        Spacering the K frame though I have never heard of such a thing before now, from what others have said, was done on Hemi Darts, and Hemi Barracudas. However since their driving was 1/4 mile at a time, I would imagine whatever binding or geometry issues that may do to the suspension. was probably negligible. I mean how many miles did the typical Hemi dart travel in its lifetime? 500 miles maybe
         
        • Agree Agree x 1
        • Dave_J

          Dave_J Active Member

          Messages:
          42
          Likes Received:
          37
          Joined:
          Nov 27, 2019
          Location:
          Auburn, WA
          Local Time:
          1:36 AM
          I edited my post above to add mileage driven after this mod.
           
          • Like Like x 1
          1. This site uses cookies to help personalize content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
            By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.