K Frame question and steering

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scrag

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I have a 70 Duster that I am currently trying to swap a 360 in - eventually. I have a 71 Dart Swinger for a parts car and my plan is to swap the K frames from the 318 V8 powered Dart with the 225 /6 powered Duster. Should I swap the steering pieces as well between the 2 or can I swap just the K frames and have it all work. I know that I need to use a bigger Torsion Bar and was going to use the Dart's after I check to see if there is a size difference - going with the heavier duty piece for the Duster.
Thanks
 
it should work fine. i swapped the /6 k frame from my 70 dart with a k frame from a 70 340 duster and everything bolts in perfect, nothing had to change. i did change my torsion bars to a larger size, but none of my steering had to change.
 
Thanks - good info - now my next question is whether to simply unbolt the K frame (with the steeering attached) and swap them outright. It would be a bit simpler (disconnect the hoses) vice having to disconnect the steerring pieces (my opinion based on looking at it). Opinions?
 
scrag said:
Thanks - good info - now my next question is whether to simply unbolt the K frame (with the steeering attached) and swap them outright. It would be a bit simpler (disconnect the hoses) vice having to disconnect the steerring pieces (my opinion based on looking at it). Opinions?
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well, i used the idler arm from the 340 car, but kept the original pitman arm. i switched idler arms cause my original one was rusty and somehow bent.. but everything bolted in fine to the steering linkage. i did however find it easier to get the steering box back in, having it bolted to the k frame, and then while bolting the k frame in, move it around a bit to get the steering shaft to go in the steering box.. if that made any sense.
 
bthieson said:
I don't understand the torsion bar swap. Don't a lot of drag guys put /6 torsion bars in?
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...but if you want to drive on the street, mix it up with traffic, and actually turn a corner once in a while, you will want to go one or two sizes bigger than stock.

The idea of soft t-bars for drag racing is for weight transfer -- the front end comes up quickly. On the street, that translates into dive on braking, scraping your exhaust on speed bumps, body roll, and big-time understeer.
 
mvh said:
...but if you want to drive on the street, mix it up with traffic, and actually turn a corner once in a while, you will want to go one or two sizes bigger than stock.

The idea of soft t-bars for drag racing is for weight transfer -- the front end comes up quickly. On the street, that translates into dive on braking, scraping your exhaust on speed bumps, body roll, and big-time understeer.
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Sorry didn't catch where you live, but out here on the 405 parking lot, /6 bars will be more fun than a thrill ride at Magic Mountain. They are great on the track, but the first time that self important jerk in the AMG sport coupe with the cell phone in his ear, coffee in his mouth and hand on his crotch, cuts in front of you and dynamites his brakes when he realizes nobody else is doing a hundred, you'll wish for more T-bar. (And a skid plate on the K-frame.) Hmmm, think I lived that scene before.

Rev.
 
Revhendo said:
Sorry didn't catch where you live, but out here on the 405 parking lot, /6 bars will be more fun than a thrill ride at Magic Mountain. They are great on the track, but the first time that self important jerk in the AMG sport coupe with the cell phone in his ear, coffee in his mouth and hand on his crotch, cuts in front of you and dynamites his brakes when he realizes nobody else is doing a hundred, you'll wish for more T-bar. (And a skid plate on the K-frame.) Hmmm, think I lived that scene before.

Rev.
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Did that guy in the AMG have a Microsoft badge? :love5:
 
Since it's already bolted together, I'd recommend swapping the K-frames with the engines & transmissions on them. To do this, you'll need a cradle to roll units in and out from under the car and a stout engine hoist. Disconnect transmission crossmember, oil pressure & water temp leads, Any A/C hoses & wires to body, K-frame to lower radiator link, engine to body & battery leads, front brake hoses, top shock mounts, & upper control arms. Remove A/T dipstick, steering column assembly, & radiator. Do this before unbolting the k-frame. Once prepped, the actual swap will only take about a half hour.
 
72 Demon said:
Since it's already bolted together, I'd recommend swapping the K-frames with the engines & transmissions on them. To do this, you'll need a cradle to roll units in and out from under the car and a stout engine hoist. Disconnect transmission crossmember, oil pressure & water temp leads, Any A/C hoses & wires to body, K-frame to lower radiator link, engine to body & battery leads, front brake hoses, top shock mounts, & upper control arms. Remove A/T dipstick, steering column assembly, & radiator. Do this before unbolting the k-frame. Once prepped, the actual swap will only take about a half hour.
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ah, yes, but he is wanting to put a 360 in his car, the dart with V8 k frame has a 318. or were you talking about removing the /6 with k frame?
 
K Fame is out of both cars I steam cleaned the one from the V8 Dart and I am going to prep and paint it then install it. Torsion Bars are a pain in the a55 to the uninitiated - a lot ot little lessons learned that I wont forget. Who supplise the bigger bars (AYSO/Just Suspensions?) This is my kids car so and while it is a disk drum set up it is also does not have power brakes. To answer one question I am installing a 360 vice a 318 (which was toast). BTW Thanks for the input and feedback - I am not proud and welcome ANY tips and reommendations from you the group. I want this to be a fun car for him (he really like this car and I can see that he is hooked lol).
Scott
 
try Firm Feel for T-bars very good price & qwik delivery.I got mine at my door in 2-days which is amazing for something that had to cross the border.
 
70DartMike said:
ah, yes, but he is wanting to put a 360 in his car, the dart with V8 k frame has a 318. or were you talking about removing the /6 with k frame?
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Put the 360 & tranny on the V-8 K-frame, and drop the /6 & tranny on its K-frame. Then load the 360 setup into the car. He could put the /6 in the V-8 donor if he wanted. I put the V-8 in the Demon from down under and will never go over the top again if I can help it. It's easy, and I did it without any help.

One thing to consider is that steering columns have to be swapped if one is power and the other is a manual steered car.
 
There really isn't much weight difference between a 225 & 318. If you put an aluminum intake and headers on the 318, the V-8 will weigh less.
The intent of the suspension on my Demon was to make it fun to drive on the street, particularly twisty back roads. To that end, I have kept the springs soft, and installed some very heavy duty (Monroe) gas shocks all around. There are also anti-sway bars fore and aft. Finally, because of the soft springs and big rubber (235/60-15), I fabricated a lateral Watts link to keep the axle from twisting the rear springs laterally and keep the axle from shifting.

The natural tendency of the A-body is to understeer. If you go with stiffer torsion bars, it will back off of that tendency to a certain extent. Conversely, if the rear leaves are stiffened, more understeer. Both statements assume that there are no changes made at the other end of the car.

Good handling, from a suspension view point is a matter of balance. Others have answered the issue of going with light torsion bars on the front. Is it possible to go to far the other way? Yes. When the front end is too stiff, it will "skip" in the turns and the transition from stuck down to slide will occur with less warning.
 
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