K-member delima

-

65PlumCrzy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2014
Messages
200
Reaction score
16
Location
Gaston, SC
I've been debating on a tubular k member for my 65 Valiant. I'm not concern about weight, for some reason I really don't feel 10lbs is really gonna kill me on a motor that pushes 550+ with torque to match in a 2800 lb car. I know I want rack and pinion and remove the torsion bars, my issue with stock is clearance. The motor sits below the hood and the inner fenders haven't been mutilated. The motor is a 361bb, built as a mountain motor, high compression, high rpm, all motor, not bottle fed. Exhaust are factory 69 440 magnum manifolds. Steering box is causing a clearance issue, so it was removed, attempted a front steeering retro, and the Ackerman is all messed up. What units have the members used and found to be the best in their opinions. I've looked at HeMI Denny, Alterkation and Magnumforce. Please help.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2014-11-13-23-11-15.jpg
    29 KB · Views: 287
  • 20141109_190553.jpg
    29.3 KB · Views: 288
Where is the steering gear an issue? I've seen manifolds in early cars without a rack. Some guys angle mill the manifolds for better fit.
 
The block sits on the gear box. Between the manifold, gear box, and torsion bars, makes starter and changing plugs an all day task. The 440 manifolds exit close to the torsion bars, the drag link cause clearance issues with the center sump oil pan as well. The only thing that doesn't fit under the hood was the radiator cap. I'd raise the motor only to allow clearance for a rear mount rack, but it isn't availble. The motor was centered and set to the height I was looking for and the k-frame was modified to match it. The remote oil filters was a must do to the stock location, was allowing the oil filter to sit on the k-frame. Also the lower motor location, allowed for better bell house's clearance from the 727. Yes for the ones that may question, its a 727 not the old heavy cast iron tranny. Crank was swapped for an early forged 383 crank, to allow the torque convert/tranny conversion easy. Motor has been moved a little forward to sit center on the engine compartment, wait transfer isnt a concern, due to additional weight added to the rear, behind the axle, roughly 400lbs. Also allowed for better clearance of the master cylinder.
 
I need to get better views of the engine compartment
 

Attachments

  • 20141109_190609.jpg
    27.5 KB · Views: 336
  • 20141109_190602.jpg
    32 KB · Views: 279
  • Screenshot_2014-11-07-23-11-53.jpg
    29.6 KB · Views: 252
Mopar engines do not sit in the center of the engine bay...They are all offset to the passenger side.
 
Dyno runs to 6500rpm, produced no vibrations, after looking more at it today from under the car, centerline of rear end to transmission, and comparison to a 65 Barracuda with a 273, it is actually almost in the same position aside from the motor sits about an inch futher forward on the k-member. Also, the right exhaust manifold sits a little closer to the motor than the left allowing for the engine to sit a little more to the right. At any rate, the after market k-member should locate the motor correctly if need be. The original thread was for info on the various aftermarket k-members out there, but all info is appreciated. I really don't this motor breakin loose and definitely don't want any grenades under the hood caused by little things like miss aligned drive train.��
 
I dumped my stock steering in order to move my BB back in the car and went with a rear steer rack to make it drivable and cheap.
Issues with that arrangement: Oil pan issues and unit support.
My application is different but I think if you notched the k member a tad and ran an oil pan with the sump in the forward location it can be done with out issue. The trick is to mount it in the same location as the original steering links and low enough to clear the pan. You will have to make the mounts from the K member very ridged because the rack will want to move side to side in the car and if you try to brace it to the frame rail you can run into issue with the headers.
The best way to add rack steering is change the K and spindle mounts and go front steer.
 
For what this is worth HEMIDENNY has the 2g HEMI in his A-body in a non-factory spot with no vibrations
 
-
Back
Top