K Member

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Everyone has a right to their opinion. I agree with Rick Ehrenberg completely on the subject. Look at the facts:
The factory spread out the suspension loads to the frame rails AND the torsion bar crossmember. These coil over designs concentrate ALL the stresses on the 4 mounting bolts of the frame rails. The factory pivot points of the lower control arm and strut rod are further apart than these aftermarket designs, providing in theory, MORE stability. The cantilevered tie rod connection at the wheel is also, in theory, a bad design.
Rick can be obnoxious at times, but his science is sound. I just dont see the gains in choosing an aftermarket setup. Some tout a "weight savings" over the factory setup, but read into that further. the bulk of that is from replacing the iron cased power steering chuck with a MANUAL rack. That is apples and oranges. The FRONT mounted steering rack moves weight FORWARD. I'm sure everyone knows that moving weight forward is a step BACKward. Rick's comments were also about the question of long term durability of the Heim joints compared to tie rods with grease boots.
 
Some tout a "weight savings" over the factory setup, but read into that further. the bulk of that is from replacing the iron cased power steering chuck with a MANUAL rack. That is apples and oranges.
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ummmm. there is weight savings even with a power rack. all the weight savings is from more then just the box. even going from a alumn manual box there is a weight savings. your eliminating all the other crap up there also, pitman,idler arms,4 tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves, strut rods, pretty sure the lower arms are quite a bit lighter then stock ones and yes trashing the box saves quite a bit of weight. as far as the hiem joints go, long term durability? seriously? who cares? its not like the joints are gonna go bad in 3 weeks or anything, so you replace them every 5 years instead of every 10 years if you have to. i don't know about you or anyone else but i would hope guys would go over their car every spring no matter what suspension is under there to check things out and replace worn items as needed, mine have been there for 6 years now and they are still nice and tight. have friends with stock suspension that has had a ball joint go in a few years. hows that for durability? it is what it is. parts wear out. my car is driven quite a bit over the summer months (would be driven a lot more if the damn price gas prices came down) full day road trips are not uncommon. roads are horrible around here and its held up great. no issues at all with it.


bottom line is. don't buy one if you don't like it. for me i know its a quality piece. don't know if i could go back to a stock suspension car and be happy with it again after having mine set up as it is. infact right now i'm selling things and saving for a second system to put under jamies dart. that reminds me, i better change the oil and get some pics of the YZ today so i can blow that out too.. :)
 
how many times have you heard a heim joint failing? i know i've read many times of factory "brand new" replacement suspension parts failing, or being crap right out of the box? moog is now chinese garbage, trw aint any good, all the cheap autozone, kragen, oriellys house brand stuff is complete garbage i wouldnt even put near my car.

and how is it possible to go backward by moving weight forward, if the RMS unit is nearly 100 POUNDS LIGHTER than the factory setup? do you have one? do you own one? have you driven a car with one? have you put one together or installed one on a vehicle? have you even seen one in person?
 
Personally all the "so-called kits" look backyard built. Hemi Denny plates look laser or water jet cut I will give him that, but the RMS square tube is hookey looking though I am sure strong. Round tube is better from theory though much harder to make consistent then a laser cut flange or plates.

My big issue is more about durability then weight. I am hard on my cars and tough is king in my book. I can save the weight with aluminum heads and light engine components, like small alternators and p/s pumps which could get me to the 100# savings quickly.

The inherent design flaw is not welding or heim vs. ball-joint but the lack of structural integrity. Heims are tough and will last, but the fail quick compared to a ball-joint that "generally" fail slower. Heims or Rod ends were not originally made for the pounding of the suspension, but have over the years have evolved to be a street-able option.

I look at the factory K-member as a big strap the that ties the front end together to make it one big unit and to stiffen up the chassis. The idea or principle is similar to sub-frame connectors. That being said then why should I have less material that is smaller and weak comparatively to factory. If the design and engineering is changed to include a better grade of materials i.e., D.O.M. or chrome-molly then I can see the justification for light and smaller tubing. To my knowledge (which is limited for sure) I see no mention of that in any of the products features and benefits.

I am not here to bag-on anyone person nor brand, but I am here to question the validity of the products and their corresponding characteristics.

Please prove me wrong, for I will always except the better for the worse...
 
heres a pic of mine in the air
 

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Though I am no longer a drag racer, I still hit the back roads daily and was wondering, besides changing K- frames, is there an alternate route to go using the stock K-frame with its torsion bars and using manual rack and pinion steering which for me personally would be ideal. At my age just one update to the steering would be a good thing and would allow the use of any oil pan without going overboard.

Anyone out here making such a thing?
 
HotLines said:
Though I am no longer a drag racer, I still hit the back roads daily and was wondering, besides changing K- frames, is there an alternate route to go using the stock K-frame with its torsion bars and using manual rack and pinion steering which for me personally would be ideal. At my age just one update to the steering would be a good thing and would allow the use of any oil pan without going overboard.

Anyone out here making such a thing?
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There have been a few attempts but none are great. The "unisteer" seemed like a great idea but had a poor rep. I seem to recall that the turning radius wasn't as tight as stock and that it had an issue with bumpsteer.
 
wade said:
how do i get a hold of hemi deny
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E-mail me
[email protected]

I will PM you my phone number also.....my latest version has a one piece cross member and as always, the HDK utilizes automotive tie rid ends for increased suspension travel and long lasting service.
 
HotLines said:
Though I am no longer a drag racer, I still hit the back roads daily and was wondering, besides changing K- frames, is there an alternate route to go using the stock K-frame with its torsion bars and using manual rack and pinion steering which for me personally would be ideal. At my age just one update to the steering would be a good thing and would allow the use of any oil pan without going overboard.

Anyone out here making such a thing?
Click to expand...

Yes....The HDK does just that. The conversion (HDK) does require changing out to Mustang II spindles and brakes (total investment is about $3200 for everything). Famous Bob (I believe) makes a set-up that utilizes the factory spindles / brakes. Funny....he is only about 25 miles from me and we have never meet.

if interested.....please send me an e-mail and I will forward pictures and options

[email protected]
 
I think 100% of the bashers here do not have a set up like these nor have ever driven a car with one of these suspensions in it. I guarantee you that if you did you would not be bashing them. Unless you hate cars that handle like they are on rails, have a smoother ride and have room under the hood for working on **** and decent header clearance.

I have the RMS and couldn't be happier with it. Performs like an upgrade part should and is as solid as a part can be made. That jerk off Dick Eisendouche at MA is just pissed because he didn't think of it first and his main beef is with the cantilevered tie rod ends and hiem joints. I have thrashed my car on some seriously shitty roads and even blew out a ride tech shock on a major pot hole and this thing is bullet proof.

My $.02
 
I would stay away from control freak, I know a few people that have them and have had nothing but trouble, geometry all wrong and cobbled together like a kid glued a pile of pick up sticks together. The welds are horrible and just plain scary looking! I went with the HDK and will never look back. High quality correctly engineered piece and Denny really knows his stuff...
 
Michaeluser said:
Personally all the "so-called kits" look backyard built. Hemi Denny plates look laser or water jet cut I will give him that, but the RMS square tube is hookey looking though I am sure strong. Round tube is better from theory though much harder to make consistent then a laser cut flange or plates.

My big issue is more about durability then weight. I am hard on my cars and tough is king in my book. I can save the weight with aluminum heads and light engine components, like small alternators and p/s pumps which could get me to the 100# savings quickly.

The inherent design flaw is not welding or heim vs. ball-joint but the lack of structural integrity. Heims are tough and will last, but the fail quick compared to a ball-joint that "generally" fail slower. Heims or Rod ends were not originally made for the pounding of the suspension, but have over the years have evolved to be a street-able option.

I look at the factory K-member as a big strap the that ties the front end together to make it one big unit and to stiffen up the chassis. The idea or principle is similar to sub-frame connectors. That being said then why should I have less material that is smaller and weak comparatively to factory. If the design and engineering is changed to include a better grade of materials i.e., D.O.M. or chrome-molly then I can see the justification for light and smaller tubing. To my knowledge (which is limited for sure) I see no mention of that in any of the products features and benefits.

I am not here to bag-on anyone person nor brand, but I am here to question the validity of the products and their corresponding characteristics.

Please prove me wrong, for I will always except the better for the worse...
Click to expand...

Look backyard built????...really??? . ...talk about a kick in the nuts!....but to be fair, by your standards maybe it is. But I have never had the pleasure of seeing your contributions to our Mopar hobby to compare it to.

The HDK is fully tig welded in a jig for precise fitment and is a thing of beauty.....even if I say so myself. Just for giggles....measure the id of the 4 factory K frame attaching holes....then measure the od of the shoulder of the bolt. That's 1970's precision.

Let me add I have seen the spot welds ripped out of the factory K....and one last fun fact, the factory K's were built by A.O. Smith, the water heater guys......no wonder they needed 1/4" of slop. To me, THAT is backyard.

Maybe you did not notice or were not aware of it, but the HDK does utilize automotive tie rod ends and NOT heims, more of an issue of greater suspension travel and lubrication than strength.

Please take a close up look at a HDK sometime....you might be surprised.

Mopar to ya'
Denny
 
Denny K frame is a very nice design. His service to me during our corresponding was OUTSTANDING !! Tech support and follow up was first class and I am in Australia ;)

A very good friend of mine has had the same service from Denny.

Our registration system requires major mods like these to be engineered by Automotive Engineers for design, strength, weld quality and use. My engineer declared this is the best piece he had ever see - by far.

Go with Denny, you cant go wrong ;)

Denny, if you're reading this I'll be in touch soon with some project update pics !

Frankie
 
wow...talk about bring up a dead thread....
 
momoparman said:
I think 100% of the bashers here do not have a set up like these nor have ever driven a car with one of these suspensions in it. I guarantee you that if you did you would not be bashing them. Unless you hate cars that handle like they are on rails, have a smoother ride and have room under the hood for working on **** and decent header clearance.

I have the RMS and couldn't be happier with it. Performs like an upgrade part should and is as solid as a part can be made. That jerk off Dick Eisendouche at MA is just pissed because he didn't think of it first and his main beef is with the cantilevered tie rod ends and hiem joints. I have thrashed my car on some seriously shitty roads and even blew out a ride tech shock on a major pot hole and this thing is bullet proof.

My $.02
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This about sums it up.


I have the RMS.

I've never used the others. The only one I KNOW has issues is the magnumforce.

I can tell you this, I'd never build another car without an alterKation.

And to boot Bill knows and supports his products and customers beyond anything you can imagine.
 
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