Karting??..

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I think WF is pull start?.. mine starts first pull every time. :thumbsup:..
I think it's the tag you talking about the one speed two stroke that has the battery powered electric start. I think it's the shifter karts that have the push start..
But of course I'm just starting to learn. I do want to step up to the world formula...
Nice ting about WF :thumbsup: TAG, touch and go, electric start :D.
Also it used nothing for fuel..
 
Took the kart out yesterday and finally got a baseline..
IMG_20201015_174225.jpg
 
I never had a MYCHRON on the 4 stroke, but on the KT100s we shot for 350ish° on the cylinder head temp.
Looks like you're right in the hunt there jetting wise.
 
I never had a MYCHRON on the 4 stroke, but on the KT100s we shot for 350ish° on the cylinder head temp.
Looks like you're right in the hunt there jetting wise.
If the kart didn't come with a mychron 4 it would be a while before I could afford one.. I had to buy a $50 beecon to make it work.. I guess in 2017 the mychron 5 came out and it has a GPS. ( More$$$$)
Thank you, I didn't think about engine temp for carburetor tuning.. I'm told the base setting is 1 1/2 turns out and I have it at 1 1/4...
Right now I'm still gathering proper safety equipment.. still need a neck brace and rib protector...
Tomorrow I'm gonna head to McMinnville (about an hour away) to see what a club race looks like...
 
How long is your track? Do you know the length of the straights? I'm not sure what the peak hp rpm is for those engines, but I would think gear it to hit peak at the end of the longest straight and then play with it from there to see where the fastest lap is.
 
If the kart didn't come with a mychron 4 it would be a while before I could afford one.. I had to buy a $50 beecon to make it work.. I guess in 2017 the mychron 5 came out and it has a GPS. ( More$$$$)
Thank you, I didn't think about engine temp for carburetor tuning.. I'm told the base setting is 1 1/2 turns out and I have it at 1 1/4...
Right now I'm still gathering proper safety equipment.. still need a neck brace and rib protector...
Tomorrow I'm gonna head to McMinnville (about an hour away) to see what a club race looks like...

Our vintage mychrons had 2 functions only RPM and cylinder head temp. The tach was useful for gear selection. My motor good for 15K rpm, so that's where I want it half way through the long chute. If not, change gear to get it on it's power. The main jet on the KT had a little extended T-handle on it. If you could find it through the racing gloves at 70sum mph down the front chute it could be tweaked to get that temp right where you wanted it. There were flex cables available to get the adjustment closer to the steering wheel and easier to find :lol:
 
How long is your track? Do you know the length of the straights? I'm not sure what the peak hp rpm is for those engines, but I would think gear it to hit peak at the end of the longest straight and then play with it from there to see where the fastest lap is.
There's a long straight away and a couple short straightaways.. that was my same thinking to get it to Max RPM (6100 rev limiter) at the end of the longest straight away. BUT.. the longest straight away is only a small portion of the track. It's made of seven corners... Exiting those corners it's probably where time is picked up... So I'm almost thinking I would want to be banging off my rev limiter sometime before the end of the straight away as to give me more RPMs exiting corners? My current theory I'm cooking up LOL.. I have a 16 front sprocket and I had a 59 and was doing about 5,500 RPMs at the end of the straight away. That was before I had the beacon to tell my lap times... so with that small bit of information I put a 62 sprocket on the back and was up to 58-59 hundred RPMs as you can see on the mychron. And finally got a lap time as a benchmark.
All I have to fall back on at the moment is my drag racing and I do remember a 5800 RPM shift point yielded the same as a 6800 RPM shift point. So there's something to be said about torque as well... And where its maximum is with these motors. Who knows I might be going back down to the 59 to see what it does... I do like the possibility of getting a taller sprocket and trying that. But what I really have to do is get seat time to get more consistent with the kart. The good part is I have a lot to learn and that will keep me interested...
 
There's a long straight away and a couple short straightaways.. that was my same thinking to get it to Max RPM (6100 rev limiter) at the end of the longest straight away. BUT.. the longest straight away is only a small portion of the track. It's made of seven corners... Exiting those corners it's probably where time is picked up... So I'm almost thinking I would want to be banging off my rev limiter sometime before the end of the straight away as to give me more RPMs exiting corners? My current theory I'm cooking up LOL.. I have a 16 front sprocket and I had a 59 and was doing about 5,500 RPMs at the end of the straight away. That was before I had the beacon to tell my lap times... so with that small bit of information I put a 62 sprocket on the back and was up to 58-59 hundred RPMs as you can see on the mychron. And finally got a lap time as a benchmark.
All I have to fall back on at the moment is my drag racing and I do remember a 5800 RPM shift point yielded the same as a 6800 RPM shift point. So there's something to be said about torque as well... And where its maximum is with these motors. Who knows I might be going back down to the 59 to see what it does... I do like the possibility of getting a taller sprocket and trying that. But what I really have to do is get seat time to get more consistent with the kart. The good part is I have a lot to learn and that will keep me interested...
The thing is, if you're reaching max RPM at the end of the longest straight, you have a lower gear to help the kart out of the corners and onto the straight. I wouldn't want to bang it off the limiter, even if it is just for a moment since it is a box stock engine. Torque may be more in play for your engine now, my bench mark is an honest 9k rpm 5 horse Briggs engine we used to race, so we tried to keep it up near the hp peak. Most of them even lived a season, although people would swear to pull them after 13 races and freshen them. We never lost any time so Dad said that's not happening.
 
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Well several gophers gave their homes up to my enjoyment today... the track seemed a bit slippery as I think it's just cold and it had been raining the day before. I could tell right away that the track was a bit more slippery then the last time... on my first round towards the end after I got my tires heated up I had made it around the second to the last turn wide open throttle. So I figured from that point I don't need to hit the brakes just hold her open and hold on...
Welllll.... I took a few laps on my second round to get the tires good and warm and figured it was time to hold that corner wide open again... This time things didn't go quite like the first round and I ended up flying through the grass clipping a couple gopher holes and completely covered myself and my cart in dirt... Then it wasn't but a couple of laps later I spun out in the number to hairpin corner when I jammed on the brakes a little too hard a little too early..
I just kind of laughed myself because I figured I got to get some of this out of the way if I'm ever to get any experience and that's what I was there for... Although I didn't know I was going to get that much..lol...
I was observed bye another guy and pretty much professional kart setup guy and both were saying that I wasn't carrying enough RPM... I think if my back sprocket gets any bigger I'll be riding on that instead of my back tires LOL... I need to look into a smaller front sprocket if that's possible...
 
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They should be 11" tall just the same depending on wheel width and air pressure. That drive sprocket is probly a clutch specific part. If I remember right the 10 toof drive sprockets were prone to a lot of attempted chain escapes due to the smaller diameter.
 
Ok so I inherited a 16t on the front and a 59t on the back... Bought a 61t and a 62t and put on the 62t... Still not finding the rev limiter at the end of the straight away... Also I'm thinking like someone at the track said yesterday I should probably be hitting the limiter a good 40-50 feet before the end of the longest straight...
This particular track is very technical with 5 sharp corners, 2 sweeping corners, 2 short straights, and 1 long straight away...
I'm interested in experimenting with taller gears...
So, I bought a 14t front sprocket and a 58t rear..
My average 49 second laps turned into 50 second laps this last time.. the track was colder and felt more slippery..
 
Ok so I inherited a 16t on the front and a 59t on the back... Bought a 61t and a 62t and put on the 62t... Still not finding the rev limiter at the end of the straight away... Also I'm thinking like someone at the track said yesterday I should probably be hitting the limiter a good 40-50 feet before the end of the longest straight...
This particular track is very technical with 5 sharp corners, 2 sweeping corners, 2 short straights, and 1 long straight away...
I'm interested in experimenting with taller gears...
So, I bought a 14t front sprocket and a 58t rear..
My average 49 second laps turned into 50 second laps this last time.. the track was colder and felt more slippery..

Have you done any blasts on an open road to see if you can even get to the limiter? Maybe your bigger seat added more weight and now lacks power to reach the top end? :poke:
 
Have you done any blasts on an open road to see if you can even get to the limiter? Maybe your bigger seat added more weight and now lacks power to reach the top end? :poke:
Actually I believe that's what's totally going on. Before I had it a kid had it. I talked to some people and they say 16-59 should just be perfect for that track. Unlikely that would be true for someone in the hundred and seventy-two 180 pound range. But not 230 plus gear..
I only tried it on an open road basically around my neighborhood one time... I just got the new seat in the new (to me) kart at the time and had a neighbor lady after a few blocks shaking their fists and yelling at me LOL... I figured I better just keep it on the track... But I reckon that some certain gear I'll find the rev limiter...
The bigger seat is probably actually lighter it's a much better quality and manufacturer. It's my fat *** LOL...
 
Actually I believe that's what's totally going on. Before I had it a kid had it. I talked to some people and they say 16-59 should just be perfect for that track. Unlikely that would be true for someone in the hundred and seventy-two 180 pound range. But not 230 plus gear..
I only tried it on an open road basically around my neighborhood one time... I just got the new seat in the new (to me) kart at the time and had a neighbor lady after a few blocks shaking their fists and yelling at me LOL... I figured I better just keep it on the track... But I reckon that some certain gear I'll find the rev limiter...
The bigger seat is probably actually lighter it's a much better quality and manufacturer. It's my fat *** LOL...
Time to put the nitrous kit on her :poke:
But in all seriousness, you play around with the gearing and you'll make it happy, then you'll be happy. That is until you need more horsepower.
 
And another rabbit hole starts, remember when I told you my buddy runs billet blocks for his kids Jr. Dragsters.
 
Time to put the nitrous kit on her :poke:
But in all seriousness, you play around with the gearing and you'll make it happy, then you'll be happy. That is until you need more horsepower.
Well I already am thinking world formula..
($1600) (about 15-18hp)... More hp yes.. but what I'm after is being able to get into a race class that accommodates my goal weight of 220lbs... + 170lbs.. (kart) WF class minimum is 390lbs..
I'm fine with the lo206 (about 9.5 go or so?).. but the class minimum is 360lbs. And I wouldn't be happy at that weight or happy getting to it...
 
If you don't already, keep a diary of the changes. Was the kart losing grip in right and left turns? Front or back or both having the grip issue?
 
Plan A:
Loose 10 lbs. By January 1st.. if not by end of February..
Practice as much as possible with what I have..
Save for a WF engine and try to follow the back of the pack next summer..
Progress over the preceding years...
 
Plan A:
Loose 10 lbs. By January 1st.. if not by end of February..
Practice as much as possible with what I have..
Save for a WF engine and try to follow the back of the pack next summer..
Progress over the preceding years...
Loose 10 lbs by Jan 1st, that is going to be hard after the holidays.
I lost 20 lbs this year by not trying, I was 180 before this covid crap hit, and started working from home.
20 lbs disappeared because I quit eating out everyday for lunch.
 
Loose 10 lbs by Jan 1st, that is going to be hard after the holidays.
I lost 20 lbs this year by not trying, I was 180 before this covid crap hit, and started working from home.
20 lbs disappeared because I quit eating out everyday for lunch.
I was 215 in January and the doctor said lose 10 more pounds. Covid hit and I sat around the house eating as much as possible along with my wife's homemade chocolate chip cookies and such. I gained 20... This last week I cut out junk food and soda (a two liter of squirt per day with a mountain dew) I've lost five pounds already this week... Also I just drink my coffee in the morning have my sandwich in the afternoon and have a reasonable portioned dinner instead of seconds and thirds...
 
Right now I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to align the front end on the kart...
Of course I joined the karting forum and it looks like either super old school and measuring or buy my own tools which would be two thousand new or a thousand used which ain't happening or probably having to take it to a shop which I never like that. It's not really the money so much it's more that I like doing stuff myself...
 
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