Keep my garage moisture free

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  1. Evan Dutch

    Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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    I’ve seen the foil type that comes in rolls, thinking of putting that on the roof. I’ve also seen foam boards that have a foil backing.
     
  2. Roadart

    Roadart Well-Known Member

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    Again,SEAL THE FLOOR. If you put any type of foam/rubber flooring pads etc. you will get moisture under it .
     
  3. Blind Squirrel

    Blind Squirrel Well-Known Member

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    However, if it's new construction. Wait for the required cure time before application.
     
  4. dogbreath

    dogbreath Well-Known Member

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    Check out hunter panels polyiso rigid board . Available in many different finishes and thickness and also available fire rated and easy to install , just screw them to your posts with self drilling self tapping screws and fender washers or glue them in. I used the 2 foil sided in 1¨ thickness in my metal bldg . 4x8 panels about $20 per panel
     
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    • Evan Dutch

      Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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      Do you have any pictures? How much do you think it cost you to do it?
       
    • Evan Dutch

      Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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      The concrete is cured. However I’ll have to scrub it first, as I’ve made a few oil messes
       
    • Evan Dutch

      Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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      Will sealer be a one time application? Or will it have to be re-applied over the years?
       
    • 64 Sportfury

      64 Sportfury FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I just got my metal building installed yesterday after a 4 month wait. I have been doing research for a while and have found a lot of conflicting info regarding insulating metal buildings. I moved to FL about a year ago and am still learning about the climate differences. Your climate and building material are two of the most important aspects of your insulation choice. Check out the Garage Journal forum and do a search. You will found a ton of info that will help you decide. My building is 1200sqft and I may install A/C in the future but I did install a commercial-type exhaust fan in the upper rear wall and a walk-through door near the front of the building. I insisted on a thick vapor barrier beneath the slab. I hope the exhaust fan is able to pull the majority of the heat out of the building using a screen over the walk-through door. I will be wiring for a mini split HVAC system either way. I haven't decided on insulation choice yet but I think foam is too expensive for what I expect from insulation. I still have wiring, lighting and a lift to install. I have another existing metal building (625sqft) that has foam board insulation behind OSB with a drop ceiling and no roof insulation that has no condensation issues. It also has no ventilation. If you can ask other metal building owners in your area/climate you can get real-world experiences as well. Good luck. Everyone likes photos:
      20201223_173921_HDR (1).jpg 20201223_173903 (1).jpg
       
    • 64 Sportfury

      64 Sportfury FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      As for a floor sealer, I am using Covershield U140. Not as a vapor barrier but for oil and stain resistance.
       
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      • Evan Dutch

        Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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        Your smaller building is similar to how I may do mine. Did you cut your foam boards to fit between the square tubing? The only ventilation mine has is where it isn’t air tight, I’ll be fixing that before I insulate it.
         
      • 64 Sportfury

        64 Sportfury FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        The previous owner did everything on the existing building. Other than it being really hot during the warm weather it's fine. It isn't air tight and was built in early 2000's for RV storage. I use half for my work shop and store my Sportfury in the other.
         
      • Joey4speed

        Joey4speed FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        The builder layed a vapor barrier (thick plastic sheeting) on top of the gravel and re-bar wire before the concrete was poured.
        Isnt that enough to seal?
         
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        • Joey4speed

          Joey4speed FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          No, I went with the recommended open cell on the underside of the roof and closed cell on the verticals.
           
        • 49ersrock

          49ersrock New Member

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          You mean the vapor barrier on top of the gravel, then the rebar, then the concrete right? That is how its normally done in North Florida.
           
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          • Dicer

            Dicer Diceman FABO Gold Member

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            Any time nowadays I lay plastic down before I pour concrete, cheap and effective way to stop moister wicking. What I see in the pictures does not seem to be the case, cement has a light tint to it...looks good to go. I would take a trip to an Menards, Lowes, Home Depot and choose a dehumidifier, don't cheap out here. As mentioned before, they can freeze up and the cheaper ones will...the nicer ones have a heating coil built in to prevent freeze ups...Once you get your garage dried out, this will help you determine what direction you want to head with your insulation....
            I sure hope they didn't put plastic sheeting above your re-bar...you want that re-bar about midway in your pour...
             
          • Evan Dutch

            Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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            Plastic sheeting was layed on top of the gravel. Then my slab was poured. There is no rebar in my concrete
             
          • Joey4speed

            Joey4speed FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Correct Dicer, wire rebar on top over vapor barrier.
             
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            • Dicer

              Dicer Diceman FABO Gold Member

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              you did well, just a comment on Joeys pour....
               
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              • Evan Dutch

                Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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                Oh my bad, thought you were referring to mine
                 
              • dogbreath

                dogbreath Well-Known Member

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                30x40x10 walls and ceiling was $1750 5 years ago , including screws , washers , foil tape for seams and spray can spray foam for gaps in the panels. I used the 1¨ - R-6.7 Its available in up to 3.5¨-R-22. You could use the same thickness as your uprights and stuff it between them and cover with drywall or osb or not. Check your local codes most places require exposed insulation to be covered or just fly under the radar.
                 
              • Evan Dutch

                Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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                Not too bad on the price, my building isn’t as large so it should be cheaper. You said it works good for moisture control. How well does it work to maintain temperature?
                 
              • CFD244

                CFD244 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Vapour barrier goes to the warm side......The theory is to keep the moisture laden air inside the building from possibly migrating through your insulation contacting touching the cold surface of an exterior wall. Sprayfoam does not need an extra vapour barrier since it is closed cell and seals the stud cavity totally so no moisture can get through.
                 
              • rustycowll69

                rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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                I believe that foam insulation, while great R-value, can be hazardous. It is very flammable, and when it burns gives off very toxic fumes. One example is that nightclub/live music venue fire in RI(?), where Great White were playing, and somebody had a brilliant idea for pyrotechnics special effects. It flashed over in a minute, and fully involved the entire structure in a couple more minutes. 100 people died. Google "great white fire".
                Some of the hazards can be mitigated with furring out walls and covering with sheetrock(pref. 5/8").
                I like the idea of vents, big ceiling fans for air movement, dehumidifier or A/C, sealing slab, post construction.
                Pre construction, you could have installed insulating foam panels beneath the concrete slab, and/or as some suggested simple plastic sheeting.
                 
              • Evan Dutch

                Evan Dutch Well-Known Member

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                Are you referring to spray foam insulation or foam boards? Or any kind of foam insulation in general.
                 
              • rustycowll69

                rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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                well, I think they are all flammable, but most especially the spray foam. The "skinned" foam boards may be slightly more fire resistant, but I wouldn't put too much faith in it.
                I found the real rock wool insulation to be superior for me. It's green colored. You can put a propane torch to it, and it MIGHT barely singe. It can be a bit tough to work with. I bought it in batts, and bought several cheap(disposable) electric carving knives for cutting it. Unlike fiberglass insulation, it's unaffected by moisture.
                 
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