txstang84
Well-Known Member
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaand I'm done
LA 318 w/ roller lifters&cam - Waste Of Time?
- Thread starter cudaracer
- Start date
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txstang84
Well-Known Member
HUGE difference between your parent vehicle and his.
OK, now I'm done...with this thread anyway
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
Like he's lighter
elevensies
Well-Known Member
How about just finding a 340 motor, and running it stock until you can afford to put new intake and carb on.
340 make around 275hp even tired ones, which is a lot more than your 318 with basic modifications can do.
Taking a 318 out even to 60tho over, with flat top forged pistons and a bigger cam won't see a stock 340 figure.
Over here though 340's are rare rare rare, don't know how easy they are in the states.
360's pahhh....all noise.
Oh and remember, if you do go 60 over, if it goes tits up, you got no more in their so keep a spare block.
340 make around 275hp even tired ones, which is a lot more than your 318 with basic modifications can do.
Taking a 318 out even to 60tho over, with flat top forged pistons and a bigger cam won't see a stock 340 figure.
Over here though 340's are rare rare rare, don't know how easy they are in the states.
360's pahhh....all noise.
Oh and remember, if you do go 60 over, if it goes tits up, you got no more in their so keep a spare block.
elevensies
Well-Known Member
Or just change your gearing to 5:1
ELEVENSIES, If your comparing the 318 to 340 by cubes, then how can you say Pahh... all noise about a 360? It has the most cubes.... ?? And the most stroke which most are trying to do with the 318/340's... And who wants 5.10 gears behind a 904 in a street car that will seldom see the track..????
cudaracer
Well-Known Member
For me part of the payoff on a 318 with comp roller cam and retrofit roller set, is the mild mannered engine manners and of course fuel efficiency. Having the extra power capability and free revving nature, is of course a bonus, as is the easier break in period and lack of pricey zinc filled oils that have to again be flushed. Total cost seems to be about 660. So yeah, if you are only weighing the power advantage, you are missing the many benefits, which really add up.
elevensies
Well-Known Member
I'm not comparing 318 to 340 with just cube size, the 340 engine has bigger valves higher compression, and is the best small block, it will make more power with tuning, even more than the 360.
It will work, and the heads and cam will certainly wake that 318 up!! I've played plenty with 318's and through much tuning I've taken down much better built 340's. My favorite combo on top was the thermoquad and cast intake. It could be had at my local junk yard for 40 bucks (20 for carb, 20 for intake). Great gas mileage with the extreme spread bore, and that cast intake is so hard to beat. I've did intake swaps and let the E.T. slip be the judge, and that cast intake performs. Many roads lead to the same destination....
cudaracer
Well-Known Member
340 blocks are great. But, not enough better to justify the added cost of having to find one and buy it, all for what is effectively a tiny bore size difference over the 318. I think I would rather have the 348 with more torque anyways. Not gonna rev it much anyways.
elevensies
Well-Known Member
Fair point, I just didnt know how hard they are to find.
In he uk they are like rockin Horse **** to find,
A stroked 318 will need a better top end though, unless we are talking early 318's.
Which 340? 72 and 73 340's have 360 heads... and are you sure the 340 heads are better for the street than the "308" 360 heads?? You do need to install hardened seats in those 340 heads, which the 308's already have. And these heads are easily obtained, and bolt right on the 318. Infact, all those "hot" 340 parts bolt right to that 318. Heads, cam, intake, rods, crank, and that leaves us with ONE thing, the bore.... which.... equals... 22 cubic inches...
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
No it won't.
How did you come to the conclusion the 340 will make more power than the 360.
Both using the same heads, cam and comp you're gonna be so disappointed
X2 ^
X's3! ^
My UK freind, 340's are hard to find and triple the expense to simply obtain. You can not simply "just go out and get a 340" because you can't! But you can get a 318/360-5.2/5.9 really easy. Decide that morning you want it and by noon it is in the driveway. NOT happening with a 340!
In the past, I have taken mid & late 70's & 80's 318 with bolt on's and a cam from high 14's down to high 12's with stock slugs. Bolting on the proper parts is key. To make a statement that the 318 can not perform or make the power of a 340 with bolt on's and a cam change either tells me you never tried or you know nothing of for which you speak of. Or is it both?
My UK freind, 340's are hard to find and triple the expense to simply obtain. You can not simply "just go out and get a 340" because you can't! But you can get a 318/360-5.2/5.9 really easy. Decide that morning you want it and by noon it is in the driveway. NOT happening with a 340!
In the past, I have taken mid & late 70's & 80's 318 with bolt on's and a cam from high 14's down to high 12's with stock slugs. Bolting on the proper parts is key. To make a statement that the 318 can not perform or make the power of a 340 with bolt on's and a cam change either tells me you never tried or you know nothing of for which you speak of. Or is it both?
Cudaracer; if you want to do an inexpensive 318 and I'll include / assume the engine needs a rebuild and include pistons. So to start ...
Flat top KB Hypers
A Hyd. Cam with a intake duration of 212-218
600 CFM carb on top of a Edelbrock Performer or LD4B
Add your headers w/a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe
Leave the heads stock and enjoy
With 3.23 gears, a well jetted and tuned set up will have you in the 14's. Mileage should be high teens. No problem. In my last Duster, my cam was a Crane split @ 216/228-.454-.480-112. It was a '79 engine that was a bit worn out. A 904 trans (stock, no tweaks) and a 3.21 sure grip Equiped rear ran low 15's OOTB on a cold Nov. day with a ill tune. It still spun the tires on the track. So grab some wider tires cause the stock one will just cost you time.
A similar build I did at 18 had 360 heads and a 4spd & 4.10's. This car ran mid 13's all Danm day long with 13.2 as the best it did. Again traction limited.
You can keep the stock stall converter and not need a shift kit.
Flat top KB Hypers
A Hyd. Cam with a intake duration of 212-218
600 CFM carb on top of a Edelbrock Performer or LD4B
Add your headers w/a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe
Leave the heads stock and enjoy
With 3.23 gears, a well jetted and tuned set up will have you in the 14's. Mileage should be high teens. No problem. In my last Duster, my cam was a Crane split @ 216/228-.454-.480-112. It was a '79 engine that was a bit worn out. A 904 trans (stock, no tweaks) and a 3.21 sure grip Equiped rear ran low 15's OOTB on a cold Nov. day with a ill tune. It still spun the tires on the track. So grab some wider tires cause the stock one will just cost you time.
A similar build I did at 18 had 360 heads and a 4spd & 4.10's. This car ran mid 13's all Danm day long with 13.2 as the best it did. Again traction limited.
You can keep the stock stall converter and not need a shift kit.
cudaracer
Well-Known Member
Thanks, but only need short block work. Have the rest, as mentioned.
Already have the 308 cast heads with 3 angle, mild port work and gasket match and decked 0.015".
Already have the Weiand DP with mild porting/matching.
Already have the 600 eddie.
Already have the Dakota exhaust manifolds with 2.125" collector ID's that I opened up further, ported and gasket matches as best I could too.
All that is left, once again, is the short block work as it is stock with 85K. New piston & freshened rod is a given. I am leaning toward the roller cam upgrade option from my hydraulic comp cam. As I mentioned, Mike from MRL spoke highly of the one I suggested. Also too, roller rockers. I should be around 380hp with what I listed and just over 400 torque.
I would say that is a healthy 318 and good enough for my stout cruiser.
One more final question.
Is it worth it to balance my crank assy with new KB167 pistons added?
RPM range on cam is up to 5600.
85k?? Man, your 318 isn't even broke in!! lol I know guys that take a motor like that in stock elimination and would turn it 7000 rpm...
cudaracer
Well-Known Member
^
And yet I hear others say I should never rev it past 5K
And yet I hear others say I should never rev it past 5K
6500 max RPM. All day everyday no problem. Been there done that still doing it.
Who ever told you that is probably only thinking of valve spring limitations with the broom stick cam. And on that note, re read the above line again!
cudaracer
Well-Known Member
Here is a thought, what if I leave my short block alone and just put the right cam in it that does not deplete my pressures, like the comp cam currently does? Hughes makes their whiplash cam for the 318, which works with 8 to 1 original. What kind of power would that give me, based on my hardware.
I'm out....... Good night......
We've (my brother and I) have turned 318's at 6000 rpm's for years and them same motors ran like new when we sold 'em. One is still in ownership of a friend of mine, and that motor is now about 14 years since built and still going strong. I have an acquaintance that turns 7200 rpm's with a stock 318 (stock crank, rods, pistons) in stock eliminator in a dodge truck. He ran one motor 11 years before loosing a main. The bottom end of the 318 is 100 percent as strong as a 340. People put cams and headers on 340's and turn them 6000 rpm's all the time.
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