LA / Magnum blocks

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Personally I see used engines as cores. Foundations to build on and I prefer shaft rockers. The bores will be sonic checked and be straight and round with the right surface profile or it doesn’t get built. What it was originally? Meh. I would not install a used running engine in a car of mine. Everyone has different abilities, experience levels, and resources. These cars are not daily drivers to me. I’m very lucky that I’m in the position I am. I have done the “tarp over the car to make an igloo, because it is snowing a foot an hour, but you got to fix the car to get to work” thing. This is a hobby to me. If I buy a engine, I will always pull it apart and measure everything and replace worn items. I don’t mind waiting for the budget to catch up to the dreams.
 
Can't believe there is so much arguing over used engines and blocks......I learned a long long time ago to never trust a used engine and everything outside of new and dyno proven gets an overhaul......I'm not wasting my time with junk or lies.
 
Don't have to prove if they will crack, it's a known fact that magnum heads crack
Incorrect. If you said there is probably a high probability…
Then I’d agree.
Thin wall castings, machine shops know this
This answer comes with a second quoting of my post with no point of reference. Thin wall castings…. Machine shops know this…. In regards to what statement now?

Id say any machine shop that automatically says my block is a thin or thick wall casting will put me on a heels edge from walking out.

I've never heard of anyone boring a magnum block 0.060", this is due to the cylinder walls being of a thin wall casting.
So sorry I gotta break up this mess of a post
But JUST because you never heard of anybody going .060 doesn’t mean it hasn’t been done.
Machine shops don't recommend boring more than 0.030".
Of course not since a thicker cylinder wall is a stronger wall and overall a better power maker. The extra .030 adds little in the way of cubic inch and power.
It's even been in several car magazines.
Whom are often wrong and just being a parrot on something they read.
I talked to a lot of guys who build their own engines and I've talked to the machine shops as well.
Which means what? And you have done….
I don't know of anyone that owns his own sonic testing equipment or a xray machine. The magnum blocks may have some improvements over the LA block's,
Not many people do own a sonic checking machine.
You can get one on E-bay or Amazon.
but they still use the restrictive oil pump pick up tube opening in the oil pump body. Cheap cylinder head design.
Since there a passenger car designed engine, which has an absolutely fine oiling system for its intended purpose, what’s the issue? I’ve personally had a 318 spin to 6800 with h no mods to the system and live for years.
I guess you better start finding out what to look for.
I'm not trying to argue over it just stating what's known and been said about the magnum blocks. I believe that they still use a 2 piece rear main oil seal.
Your stating some rumors and hearsay.
What’s the problem with a 2 piece rear main seal?

You see hear the things is, you don’t know what you don’t know and take the words written from magazines, the internet as well as what other people parrot from years of BS feed to people. Until you take things down and inspect them yourself, your doing yourself a disservice.

As I have pointed out above in the earlier postnatal supposed good year, thick wall 340 having known to be over bored .060 and more sometimes was sonic checked to be a crap block. On the flip side, I have a good 330 that’s ready for a 4.1 bore, no problem.

(Should you have read elsewhere about another block I have, this would not be the block I’m talking about, that’s a MP race block good for a 4.22 bore.)

Oil pump flow restriction? Thought the original question was for a "simple performance upgrade"? Been in "several car magazines"? I can point out all kinds of BS that's been printed in magazines- they're only slightly more reliable than crap you read on the internet. Basic sonic testers are under $150- lotsa guys have them in their toolboxes (Amazon.com: LotFancy Digital Ultrasonic Thickness Gauge Tester Meter, Range 1.2-220mm, with Hard Storage Box : Industrial & Scientific for example, if you don't believe me), myself included. So whether anything you're saying is true or not, it appears you already have your mind made up- so why did you even bother asking the original question and wasting everybody's time in the first place?

Exactly, he don’t know **** but makes claims and points to (LMAO!) magazine’s as if it were gospel.
Nice Amazon find.
 
fish 360 thanks for doing the work with your post. when will people stop commenting on this dan the man stupid dumb *** post. what i wonder if he knows all these people and has done all this stuff why is it that he can't find a engine or car,
 
Can't believe there is so much arguing over used engines and blocks......I learned a long long time ago to never trust a used engine and everything outside of new and dyno proven gets an overhaul......I'm not wasting my time with junk or lies.
I wonder how many perfectly good engines you have taken apart for a rebuild they didn't need.
 
I've had exactly the opposite experience.

ALL used engines I've bought or been given that have been described as good by a reputable source or been determined to be good by me personally- have been good and have been put into cars with very little other work necessary.

The only ones that haven't been good as is are ones that I was aware of an issue and acquired anyway for parts or later rebuild.

Rebuilding/machining costs money. Why do it if not necessary?
 
I've had exactly the opposite experience.

ALL used engines I've bought or been given that have been described as good by a reputable source or been determined to be good by me personally- have been good and have been put into cars with very little other work necessary.

The only ones that haven't been good as is are ones that I was aware of an issue and acquired anyway for parts or later rebuild.

Rebuilding/machining costs money. Why do it if not necessary?
I'm not talking about stock magnum engines or even a stock LA engine.
 
OP-

"Simple performance upgrade".
 
On the topic of roller lifter vs solid lifter, on a LA, I’d run the solid lifter. Cheaper and powerful.
On a Magnum, you could stay with the Hyd lifter but know this, some solid cams can out lift and out perform Hyd & solid lifters. You have to look into what your getting closely and that would be the ramps.

While ultimate power belongs to a solid roller, they have to be stout and designed for the strip before the solid flat tappet gets left behind.

Going backwards on a camshaft style on a Magnum is just as expensive as just getting the roller cam, or close in expense once you start adding everything up. IF you already have everything, then it’s your call. Just remember oiling lifters are a must and are the norm in kits these days but there is new oil through pushrods you have to get.
 
OK… true on that… what is “Much Better?”
IDK off hand.
 
A lot of heads develop cracks. At least MOPAR heads don't fail catastrophically and dump antifreeze in your cylinder. No facts, just thinking out loud, but I think the factors for cracking are casting core shift, thermal cycling, frozen shut heat valve in the exhaust manifold, induction hardened valve seats, thin sections. You started to see cracked heads about 1973, I used to buy 2 sets since it seemed every other head would be cracked. The in the 90's I tried to get a good set of "308" heads, but finally gave up since I never found one that was not cracked. "302" heads were hard to find good heads, pulled and scrapped quite a few after paying to have them cleaned and maged. I finally ended up with 3 good sets, only to decide the "920" 273 heads flowed better with what I could do. I do believe once I mill the good heads, They will be fine for what I use them for, a quick A Body, usually 4 speed, with free flowing exhaust and 3 row radiator.
My understanding is that magnum heads mostly have very small cracks between the valve seats, not affecting performance.
 
Can't believe there is so much arguing over used engines and blocks......I learned a long long time ago to never trust a used engine and everything outside of new and dyno proven gets an overhaul......I'm not wasting my time with junk or lies.


I don't understand your arguing, it's good that you start with a fully built engine and you prefer LA to build nothing wrong with that. But lots don't have the funds too do so, since it's easier find running magnum and they start off with more hp and respond well to basic cam intake and headers, why can't you accept for some this way to go for them and it maybe a gamble that's life.
 
Especially when there are many running (although likely with transmission problems) 5.2 and 5.9 trucks that can be had for under a grand, and you can likely get part of that back selling other parts.
 
I've never heard of anyone boring a magnum block 0.060", this is due to the cylinder walls being of a thin wall casting.

I just had my magnum block bored 60 over by a machine shop that has been building race motors for 50 years. It sonic checked fine. It's not the first he's done.
 
My understanding is that magnum heads mostly have very small cracks between the valve seats, not affecting performance.

Same as 73 up 360 heads. How do you seal up small cracks when your operating fluid is hot gas at high temperature and pressure? If I'm going to put my time in a pair of heads, I will only start with crack free heads. I feel between the natural selection, the cracked ones are taken out of service, thermal cycling, milling them flat again, using premium parts, premium machining, and keeping good coolant temperatures they will live forever. So far it has worked very well.
 
Especially when there are many running (although likely with transmission problems) 5.2 and 5.9 trucks that can be had for under a grand, and you can likely get part of that back selling other parts.
Or perfectly operating...but rotted. Or hit.
 
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