LA roller 360 block with solid roller lifters

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jake17201

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New to the forum. Do you guys/gals see any issue running solid roller lifters in a late model la roller block? I have already done the grinding requried for clearance. I was just wondering about the oiling requirements and or modications needed? Thanks!
 
If you're using an LA roller block you're in better shape than most people going roller. I know this because I stuck a retro fit roller in my 340.
 
The block came with factory hydraulic roller lifters and retaining tray but i have a set of new comp roller lifters just staring at me on the work bench. I cant resist. Just hoping i dont run into any oiling issues.
 
I had to mill down (shorten) the lifter bore bosses on my LA roller block. I was using custom made Crower lifters, the link bar sat on the tops of the bores. Not sure if non-roller blocks were shorter ? Oiling can be hit or miss in the LA depending on the lifter. Used to be that you had to tube or bush the block due to the roller wheel cut uncovering the lifter oil galley at high lobe lift. Seems like most of the lifters don't have this issue anymore.
 
If it was me i would convert the standard rollers to solid that way u can use the standard spider and retainer and know that u have a far lighter lifter without the added weight of a link bar etc. And standard rollers have proven to be reliable for hundreds of thousands of of miles without failure, unlike aftermarket solid rollers. I think the v10 viper guys have more info on how to do it cos they use the same hyd roller
 
I'm using a Crane solid roller cam and lifters in my LA with .456 lobe lift and after looking at it I don't need to tube the oil galley or bush the lifters. If you put the cam in then one set of lifters at a time you can look down the galleys from the front and rear (plugs removed of course) and see how far the lifter has to come out before it uncovers the galley. My block and cam/lifter combo has at least .100" before it uncovers the galley.

The smaller .420 lobe lift roller I had only had about .035" before it would uncover the galley because the smaller lift cams usually have a larger base circle so you have to check.
 
These drop right in, no grinding, no tubing and are designed and made to LAST!

MRLPERFORMANCE.com
 

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Guitar Jones said:
I'm using a Crane solid roller cam and lifters in my LA with .456 lobe lift and after looking at it I don't need to tube the oil galley or bush the lifters. If you put the cam in then one set of lifters at a time you can look down the galleys from the front and rear (plugs removed of course) and see how far the lifter has to come out before it uncovers the galley. My block and cam/lifter combo has at least .100" before it uncovers the galley.

The smaller .420 lobe lift roller I had only had about .035" before it would uncover the galley because the smaller lift cams usually have a larger base circle so you have to check.
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are you talking about the oil band coming out of the block? or the slot where the wheel is mounted going up into the galley? i have morels that i am getting ready to install and need to check this.
 
bones427 said:
are you talking about the oil band coming out of the block? or the slot where the wheel is mounted going up into the galley? i have morels that i am getting ready to install and need to check this.
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Where the roller is mounted. I have yet to see the oil band come out of the lifter bore.
 
Guitar Jones said:
Where the roller is mounted. I have yet to see the oil band come out of the lifter bore.
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i checked last nite wheel area is fine, band is like .050 from coming out of top on a couple holes, more on others.
 
One thing to add - the bushings also prevent loss of oil pressure should a valvetrain failure occur and the lifter pop out of the bore. That (and correcting the angle and placement of the lifters is why I do it. I won't run an unbushed solid roller.
 
Hi all.
I have a set of Retro fit roller lifters for a Chrysler LA engine 360ci. The part no. is 69532-16. My question is what would be the recommended push rod size for this for the installation. Also the geometry of the lifter to pushrod has changed. The angle between the lifter which meets the pushrod has increased due to the taller lifter. Is this a potential problem? Please let me know.
Regards
Billy D...
 
i had some idiot mopar imposter put together a rev package for me for my la 408 stroker he sourced brodix b1-ba heads and a crane hydrolic roller. come dummy fit time I realised none of it works he dont want take the goods back its becoming a legal problem all he managed to do was supply me a bunch of parts that dont work together rite down to the wrong studs it looks like im stuck with the heads i have to lower the pushrod seat height to get a good pushrod angle after a machine the pushrod slots or get offset rockers and lifters for the intakes absalute nightmare im in aus not much mopar stuff available here I got screwed lessen to be learned beware of them b1-ba heads they need allot of work and good parts matching all I wanted was a tough street 2 tone classic boat i dont even think the heads will be suitable for this application thats my sook for the day
 
graszhopper said:
i had some idiot mopar imposter put together a rev package for me for my la 408 stroker he sourced brodix b1-ba heads and a crane hydrolic roller. come dummy fit time I realised none of it works he dont want take the goods back its becoming a legal problem all he managed to do was supply me a bunch of parts that dont work together rite down to the wrong studs it looks like im stuck with the heads i have to lower the pushrod seat height to get a good pushrod angle after a machine the pushrod slots or get offset rockers and lifters for the intakes absalute nightmare im in aus not much mopar stuff available here I got screwed lessen to be learned beware of them b1-ba heads they need allot of work and good parts matching all I wanted was a tough street 2 tone classic boat i dont even think the heads will be suitable for this application thats my sook for the day
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Did you have to grind the block for pushrod clearance?

Those Brodix heads are great but are not a bolt on especially when you are using them on a street engine. They make special rocker stand mounts that allow you to use the stock rocker shaft. Harlan Sharp (and others) make offset rockers if you still need 'em.

I'm planning on using their WISSOTA spec head on an oval track 360 next season but I have to be prepared for some milling machine time I think.
 
Solid lifters are a bit noisy for every day driving. I know I wouldnt want em in something I drive a lot.There are better choices in my opinion.
But for track duty, they offer advantages.
 
The heads nead major work for pushrods I ground the block for the hydrolic roller lifters also had the lifter slots sleeved all for nothing at this stage
 
Krooser said:
Did you have to grind the block for pushrod clearance?

Those Brodix heads are great but are not a bolt on especially when you are using them on a street engine. They make special rocker stand mounts that allow you to use the stock rocker shaft. Harlan Sharp (and others) make offset rockers if you still need 'em.

I'm planning on using their WISSOTA spec head on an oval track 360 next season but I have to be prepared for some milling machine time I think.
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No grinding the block, I did go with special stands and HS rockers. So far I found The brodix heads have provisions for 3/8 fixings tapped into the head no helicoils on the stnd shaft mount the stands and rocker shaft have 7/16 holes, to much play for my likings.
I tapped 7/16 course thread in the end two and middle and machined down the middle stud inline with the shaft centre to allow oil flow through the shaft. the remaining two holes are between the intakes and cant be tapped any wider and one of these is tapped into the oil feed with a number of threads notched for oil to run up the stud into the shaft but there is some fine jaggedy edges to clean up in the threads. I just spoke to Scott at koffels place and hydraulic roller cams don't work with these heads due to the higher pushrod seat.
 
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