LA series spool motor mounts

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Kern Dog

Kern Dog

Build your car to handle.
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I have a 73-76 K member in my 67 Dart. I did this because I like the spool
Mounts and because the 1 year only 1967 idler arm is a crappy design that costs too much.
Years ago I swapped in a 360 using “seasoned” mounts that surely only got worse over time. It has been 20+ years since I put this engine in, but the way.
In the next couple weeks I’m pulling that engine to put in a fresh one so I figured I’d get new mounts. I saw an ad on this forum for used mounts and new inserts.
I’m just now taking a second look…

IMG_3513.jpeg


While grungy, they don’t look too bad. They could probably be cleaned and used as is. In the past, I’ve filled the voids with RTV or windshield urethane.

IMG_3514.jpeg


Note how the bolt fits the hole nicely.

IMG_3515.jpeg


The inserts must press in? I’ve never done this but I figured I’d give it a try.
IMG_3516.jpeg


Look at the hole. Dim lighting in here didn’t allow me to see immediately that these have a steel insert much bigger than the bolt….

IMG_3517.jpeg


They filled the gap with molten rubber? Really?

IMG_3518.jpeg


IMG_3520.jpeg


Sure, the bolt can be jammed in there….

IMG_3522.jpeg


But what about wear? Won’t the rubber fail eventually?

IMG_3523.jpeg


What about removing all the rubber from the hole and pressing in a sleeve? There would still be rubber between the steel center and the whole bracket anyway.
Made in India…GREAT.
Are all the new inserts made this way? I have not dealt with replacing these before.
This OEM oven shows what happens when the insulating rubber breaks apart.

IMG_3519.jpeg


Maybe these made in India inserts would be okay as is ?
I might just use these old mounts after cleaning them up.
 
Last edited:

Kern Dog said:
I have a 73-76 K member in my 67 Dart. I did this because I like the spool
Mounts and because the 1 year only 1967 idler arm is a crappy design that costs too much.
Years ago I swapped in a 360 using “seasoned” mounts that surely only got worse over time. It has been 20+ years since I put this engine in, but the way.
In the next couple weeks I’m pulling that engine to put in a fresh one so I figured I’d get new mounts. I saw an ad on this forum for used mounts and new inserts.
I’m just now taking a second look…

View attachment 1716496705

While grungy, they don’t look too bad. They could probably be cleaned and used as is. In the past, I’ve filled the voids with RTV or windshield urethane.

View attachment 1716496706

Note how the bolt fits the hole nicely.

View attachment 1716496707

The inserts must press in? I’ve never done this but I figured I’d give it a try. View attachment 1716496708

Look at the hole. Dim lighting in here didn’t allow me to see immediately that these have a steel insert much bigger than the bolt….

View attachment 1716496709

They filled the gap with molten rubber? Really?

View attachment 1716496711

View attachment 1716496712

Sure, the bolt can be jammed in there….

View attachment 1716496713

But what about wear? Won’t the rubber fail eventually?

View attachment 1716496714

What about removing all the rubber from the hole and pressing in a sleeve? There would still be rubber between the steel center and the whole bracket anyway.
Made in India…GREAT.
Are all the new inserts made this way? I have not dealt with replacing these before.
This OEM oven shows what happens when the insulating rubber breaks apart.

View attachment 1716496715

Maybe these made in India inserts would be okay as is ?
I might just use these old mounts after cleaning them up.
Click to expand...
you can get the whole thing brand new from Rock Auto for about 14 bucks. they have left and right
More Information for WESTAR EM2325
 
My experience:
I put on new mounts/brackets on my 360 this spring. I was under some time limitations and didn't want to bother pressing in/out new insulators, so...
First off, I noticed the part numbers in the listings (I checked several sources) is now the same between 318s and 360s. We all know that's not correct, but I was in a hurry and figured "Fine, I'll just shim the driver's bracket", as usual.
Then I got the mounts, and ended up spending more time making them right than I would have by just replacing the insulators.
First off, the metal is thinner on the replacement brackets. The spacing on the mounting "ears" is off. And the bends where the bracket is formed are incorrect, requiring multiple spacers of varying sizes just to get the brackets on both sides to bolt up correctly.
1767836979680.png

The differences are much worse than the picture makes it look.
My takeaway? Reuse your old brackets and press in new insulators, The new brackets are garbage besides being incorrect for a 360. Clean the brackets up and inspect the insulators' edge, IIRC they may have a slight lip on the edge, which means they're directional when you try to press them out- I honestly don't recall exactly, but that sticks in my mind.
As for the insulators themselves- the center hole, as you noted, was excessively large compared to the size bolt that is used. My replacements had no rubber inside the hole, unlike yours. My fix? By sheer luck, a piece of 1/2" EMT electrical conduit slid snugly into the hole (I may even have needed to lightly tap it in with a hammer), and the internal diameter was just right for the bolt. Easy enough.
That's the route I'd take.
One thing to note if you still have the 2 factory bolts is that just under the heads are 2 slight tabs on the shank- I assume these register into the lemon-shaped inner diameter of the insulator and help keep the bolt from turning when tightening up the nut. You can leave your sleeve a little short on that end so the bolt will still draw up tight.
One thing I'd also do (old timer's trick) is to get a tube of urethane sealant and fill the voids of the insulator- this firms them up considerably.
Lesson learned: reuse the originals if at all possible; and be prepared to massage the parts you need to replace, because like everything else now the QC isn't there.
 
Last edited:
That is pretty good. I may go with that!
Just for the heck of it though…

IMG_3527.jpeg


The center just pushed right out of this old mount that I had.
I bent the flanges over a bit….

IMG_3524.jpeg


Tapped on it some.

IMG_3528.jpeg


IMG_3529.jpeg


IMG_3530.jpeg


The “new” one is a loose fit….

IMG_3531.jpeg


IMG_3532.jpeg


The old sleeve…

IMG_3533.jpeg


Much closer tolerance here.

IMG_3534.jpeg


IMG_3535.jpeg


Maybe those new ones are 273/318? These are supposed to be 340/360 but from what I recall, to use the 273-318 ones you just need a spacer to tighten up a gap between the ear of the block and the bracket.
 
You can buy poly “fabricator” style bushings in lots of different sizes. I use them for trans crossmembers and engine mounts on anything that’s not stock. I bet you could buy a bushing in a shell that fits the stock bracket. Look on Kartek.com
 
I believe someone may have gotten slant 6 replacement mount inserts. I think they are smaller like those appear to be. They're certainly not right for the brackets you have.
 
The diameter is about 1/8" too small. I see no part number to do a check.
Regarding the slant six mounts, I thought those were at least 1/2" narrower than the V8 ones. If so, the centers would not interchange even if they were the same diameter.
********************************************************
I just checked...Rock Auto shows different part numbers for the inserts...slant six and 318 use different ones. The slanty is shorter/narrower.
 
Don't worry about the rubber in the hole wearing out. When the bolt is tightened, the ears 'grip' the insert and the rubber next to the bolt is just along for the ride at that point.

I ran into this years ago, with the inserts not fitting the brackets. 100k mile used parts are better than new, these days.
 
428rr said:
Do you like those?
Click to expand...
I do but you feel "every" vibration from the engine. My cam is on a 106 lsa. Oil and fluids won't deteriorate them like the rubber ones is the reason I chose them. As a matter of fact, "all" the bushings in my car are polyurethane
 
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