Last nights score. Did we do OK?

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prorac1

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Last night I went to look at what was suppose to be an a body 8.75..............as always.........it wasn't, lol. But heres what I DID get.

An unknown 8.75 with the 741 non posi carrier and 3.55 gears complete backing plate to backing plate. 5 x 4.5 bp

And a bare 8.75 housing with axles. 5 x 4.5 bp as well.

All for $150.



Heres an inside shot of the ring gear.



So upon measuring and researching them, this is what I found.

The complete rear appears to have come from a 1965 A100, and is to wide to ever fit under an early A body.

The housing and axles came from a 68-70 B body. Its 3" wider than an A body 8.75. So heres my thought.

Can I fit the B body housing and axles under the early A body (63 valiant) with the 741 center section?

What back space wheel would I need to pull it off? Any thoughts? As always, thanks. Eric L
 
Just cut the housing(s) to fit. It's not like it's difficult. At all.
 
Just cut the housing(s) to fit. It's not like it's difficult. At all.

Agreed, but, how much am I looking at to get the axles resplined or replaced? That's my major concern. And who out there still does that? Thanks, Eric L
 
The 3.55:1 one looks like a truck or van housing?

It has shock mounts on the housing itself. The only one I could find with the same dimensions was an A100. And it appears ALL original. So according to the ring gear it should have come out of a 65 A100. Eric L
 
If the B body rear is really a 65-67 housing, it should only be an inch or so wider than an A body unit, which can be made to fit with minimal trouble! If it's 3" wider or more it must be a later 71-74 B body housing!
 
If the B body rear is really a 65-67 housing, it should only be an inch or so wider than an A body unit, which can be made to fit with minimal trouble! If it's 3" wider or more it must be a later 71-74 B body housing!


From the information I can find (on the accurate 8.75 chart, lol) it is the 68-70 b body rear.


http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html
 
Research before you jump in. I understand the pinion should wind up in a certain place to avoid drive-line vibrations, and isn't the exact center. People who used wider C-body rear-ends had to cut both sides. Some found that a Ford 8.8 rear (Explorer?) only needs one side cut, plus get another "short-side" axle and you don't need to cut axles, plus get rear disk brakes. There is a post w/ excellent photos, but don't recall if an early A or 67+.
 
Yes, you did get a good deal.
I think Moser still resplines axles if you want to go that way
They can narrow the housing for you too if you decide to go that route and you can't do it yourself.
 
$485 from moser for the 35 spline custom alloy axles with bearings and studs... I just got a set for this Dana 60 going in this 72 Duster. Local shop charged me $110 to cut the housing down move the perches and reused my old housing ends. Think mine ended up 53-3/8" housing flange to flange and its going be just a hair wider than I want it to be but the springs are in stock location... May need a rim with 1/2" more backspace to keep everything happy and not rubbing on one another. All I can say is measure 5 times before you cut anything... Then measure again!
 
Research before you jump in. I understand the pinion should wind up in a certain place to avoid drive-line vibrations, and isn't the exact center. People who used wider C-body rear-ends had to cut both sides. Some found that a Ford 8.8 rear (Explorer?) only needs one side cut, plus get another "short-side" axle and you don't need to cut axles, plus get rear disk brakes. There is a post w/ excellent photos, but don't recall if an early A or 67+.

The 8.8 was going to be the choice for this project originally. Than I found this deal, and figured weather or not I used them, it was a good enough deal to warrant picking them up. Even if I just resell them both and put the money into an 8.8 if that ends up being a better decision financially. Thanks. Eric L
 
$485 from moser for the 35 spline custom alloy axles with bearings and studs... I just got a set for this Dana 60 going in this 72 Duster. Local shop charged me $110 to cut the housing down move the perches and reused my old housing ends. Think mine ended up 53-3/8" housing flange to flange and its going be just a hair wider than I want it to be but the springs are in stock location... May need a rim with 1/2" more backspace to keep everything happy and not rubbing on one another. All I can say is measure 5 times before you cut anything... Then measure again!


I think the proper length axle shafts are what's going to be the deal killer in this swap. I'm going to try to slide it under the car this winter and see how much backspacing I would need to run the b body 8.75 full width. But I think it's just going to be to wide, and narrowing it is going to be more than it's worth once you factor in the axle shafts. Eric L
 
I figured if I spent the money on mosers I wouldn't have to ever worry about them again. This thing will never have enough power to hurt a set of 35 spline alloy axles... I have a set of 30 spline 29.5" long axles from this Dana if you need them 27" or shorter they could be resplined. The turned down section from the factory prevented me from reusing them. Would probably be the same deal for you width wise. Need someone chopping one down a few inches per side doing a spring relocation / mini tub job
 
I figured if I spent the money on mosers I wouldn't have to ever worry about them again. This thing will never have enough power to hurt a set of 35 spline alloy axles... I have a set of 30 spline 29.5" long axles from this Dana if you need them 27" or shorter they could be resplined. The turned down section from the factory prevented me from reusing them. Would probably be the same deal for you width wise. Need someone chopping one down a few inches per side doing a spring relocation / mini tub job

Normally I think the same way that you do, lol. I have a WELL built Dana 60 in my 63 Valiant. But this rear is for my 13 year old sons car. Hes building it with his own money, so Im trying to stretch his dollar as far as I can.

Its getting a "stockish" 318 and a 727 auto. I just want to get a decent rear axle in the car so that he can upgrade it in the future if the need arises. But it will have a good foundation to start with. Thanks for all the info guys. Eric L
 
Agreed, but, how much am I looking at to get the axles resplined or replaced? That's my major concern. And who out there still does that? Thanks, Eric L

If you cut the housing to the stock width, just use A body axles. duh.
 
Been collecting 8 3/4's for awhile, been paying an average of $100 for housings with axles and up to $200 for complete C-body or truck rears.

I'd say you did good getting both of those for $150 :thumbup:
 
If you cut the housing to the stock width, just use A body axles. duh.

I've found that finding axle shafts for an early A body minus the housing is a lot more difficult than it was 20 years ago. At least in my area. Eric L
 
Moser will sell them all day long for 370 a pair.
 
Moser will sell them all day long for 370 a pair.


Therefore making it cost prohibitive on this project. I've got the car up on wheel dollies, so I'll do some measuring of the track of the current axle and the B body axle and report my findings.

Thanks. Eric L
 
I will say this though. I think fitting the B body axle is definitely going to work. It's just, how will it look. The car already has 1" thick wheel adapters and 14" steelies with 235-245 tires on the rear with plenty of room. Eric L
 
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