LD340 Can’t Get The Carb Base To Seal

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I'll add to be careful with using carb cleaner for leak detection. I've read about possible explosions. Water in a spray bottle or a small hose attached to propane bottle(unlit of course)
Good luck, post your results back.
 
Don’t worry about the pcv. I will... I mean against my better judgement I will offer to buy it. Why mess with it. $40-50 bucks, huge vacuum leak like that. Yea! Just let me put it on my wall- I’m doing you a favor....
Lol!:rofl:
 
@Syleng1
Don’t worry about the pcv. I will... I mean against my better judgement I will offer to buy it. Why mess with it. $40-50 bucks, huge vacuum leak like that. Yea! Just let me put it on my wall- I’m doing you a favor....
Lol!:rofl:
I need you to explain that to me cuz it sounds like sarcasm, and me and sarcasm have never been friends.
 
@Syleng1

I need you to explain that to me cuz it sounds like sarcasm, and me and sarcasm have never been friends.

I was being funny- if all it was is a pcv wrong connection and early replacement of the intake - I would buy the intake to help you out, doing you a favor. Sorry if I was not helpful. Just playing around.
 
Thanks for the replies. It is an old gasket, it’s just what I had, I’ll check the carb base for flatness, I checked the intake but not the carb. I’ll also get a new gasket. The symptoms are, fast, rough idle, dies when idled down, using a vacuum hose as a nozzle and carb and choke cleaner spray, I have the leak isolated to the sides of the carb base, seems ok along the front and back.


I've used this gasket with the LD340 with success, it comes with the studs:

https://www.manciniracing.com/hein4sqboe.html
 
i've been using a stacked up gasket then thin alum plate , and repeat a few times . this keeps the heat off the carb and seals well . View attachment 1715592098


I tried that approach in the past where you sandwich thin aluminum plates with thin gaskets...

I ended up cracking one of the bolt holes off the base.... Too much play when you stack them and it allows the base to deform until it breaks....
 
I tried that approach in the past where you sandwich thin aluminum plates with thin gaskets...

I ended up cracking one of the bolt holes off the base.... Too much play when you stack them and it allows the base to deform until it breaks....

That's about what I've found as well, really easy to break a corner off your carb ! Only ever use bakerlite like spacers now.
 
I'm developing an unhealthy fascination with this thread....it has all the elements of a ****** party in a burned out apartment building. The simple problem followed by layers upon layers of misguided advice and misinformation....it's like peeling an onion of automotive misery!

It's really this simple when it comes to carb bases - if the two surfaces are relatively flat and continuous and the carb is properly tightened - it'll seal. The type of fasteners, the PCV vacuum tap location, the exact type of gasket, and all the rest have nothing to do with it.
 
@Syleng1

I need you to explain that to me cuz it sounds like sarcasm, and me and sarcasm have never been friends.




PS_0114_SARCASM_t.jpg
 
block off the brake booster line it could be leaking thru
 
View attachment 1715592167

I’ve got the PVC hooked up to a fitting on the back of the manifold.
Why is your PCV port capped? per post #1,pic#1
This leads to the engine not getting enough idle-air bypass.
In compensation you have to increase the air going past the throttles. This puts them too far up the transfer slots, making it run both too fast and too rich. In compensation you close the mixture screws, and retard the timing.
Did you mean to do that?
Oops. That's for power brakes. The PCV hooks to the large port on the front of the carb.
I was being funny- if all it was is a pcv wrong connection and early replacement of the intake - I would buy the intake to help you out, doing you a favor. Sorry if I was not helpful. Just playing around.
Ok I get it now, I think.lol

To the OP
Ok so, to clarify; When you run the pcv to one runner like that, it wreaks havoc on the AFR in the cylinder that you have plumbed it to. At idle, it will probably misfire and leave you with a dead cylinder. That PCV HAS to be plumbed to the front port which exits under the primary throttle valves. Here it mixes with the transfer/pilot fuel, and you can twiddle the mixture screws to compensate for it.
Furthermore, at idle, the engine needs a certain amount of fuel, that has to be supplied by BOTH the transfer slots AND the mixture screws together.
If your transfers are not supplying enough fuel, then,the mixture screws will have to make up the difference. This is fine at idle. But then when you barely touch the gas pedal, the throttles open up and because the mixture screws are dialed rich, the engine goes rich; and while not ideal for cruising, at least you don't get a tip-in sag.
If your transfers are supplying too much fuel, the the mixture screws will have to be adjusted lean in compensation. This too is fine at idle.But then when you barely step on the gas,the throttles open up, and because the mixture screws are lean, the engine gets a lil sag, a flat spot, or an outright hesitation. Plus, at cruising speed she will be a lil lean, and if the entire circuit is lean, it can overheat your plugs and cause other driveability issues.

If you want to see what I mean,
do this; Put the throttle upon the fast idle cam at around 1600 to 1800 rpm, and let it settle down for a bit. Now, shut off the mixture fuel, by screwing in the the screws all the way. Notice how the rpm took a hit. now, screw the mixture screws out, until the rpm rises to a peak, then close them 1/4 turn. At whatever rpm the engine is turning, it now has the correct amount of fuel for Neutral/Park. No load running. This will also be very close to ideal in second gear at that running rpm.
Ok now flip the throttle off the fast-idle cam, and see if it will still idle at this mixture-screw to transfer-slot ratio. Do not change the mixture screw setting! If the engine doesn't like this setting, change the transfer fuel instead, by cranking around on the curb-idle screw. If the idle-rpm is unsatisfactory, change it with more or less timing. Voila.
You now have the low-speed circuit tuned for best lean torque at whatever rpm it settled in at.And you also have the idle mixture tuned pretty close. And check out your idle tip-in, It too should be sag-free.
If you changed your Idle-timing, then you will have to re-visit your Power-Timing, and limit it to 34/36*.. END.
As to the brake booster line; I don't like running it to just one intake runner. Every time you step on the brake, the engine will make a little shudder, as the diaphragm readjusts inside the booster. Instead, if the carb has a spigot on the back for that, I use it., If no spigot, I drill and tap the plenum on the secondary side, and install a spigot there.
The port in the intake that you used, to plumb the PCV, is better saved for plumbing to other devices, like a vacuum amplifier , HVAC controls, or emissions devices.
As to air leaks around the throttle shafts; On a V8, the only time I would pay attention to it, is if the throttles do not sit the same on the transfers. Otherwise, it is just a part of the Idle-Air bypass.

Whoever it was that said to check your choke; he is of course referring to the fast idle cam. I neatly avoided that scenario by advising to be sure ALL four throttle valves were closed. I'd credit him, but I cannot find the post?
 
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Thanks for the replies, I’ve checked the carb base with a flat file and did remove a little material at the carb corners, not much but they were a little high. I’ve ordered a thicker insulating type gasket and studs and am waiting for it to come from Amazon. I will also move the PCV to the port on the carb, the car doesn’t have power brakes, that’s why I used that port on the intake, didn’t know that it mattered. I’ll report back when the gasket gets here and I get it back together. Thanks for the help.
 
Ok I get it now, I think.lol

To the OP
Ok so, to clarify; When you run the pcv to one runner like that, it wreaks havoc on the AFR in the cylinder that you have plumbed it to. At idle, it will probably misfire and leave you with a dead cylinder. That PCV HAS to be plumbed to the front port which exits under the primary throttle valves. Here it mixes with the transfer/pilot fuel, and you can twiddle the mixture screws to compensate for it.
Furthermore, at idle, the engine needs a certain amount of fuel, that has to be supplied by BOTH the transfer slots AND the mixture screws together.
If your transfers are not supplying enough fuel, then,the mixture screws will have to make up the difference. This is fine at idle. But then when you barely touch the gas pedal, the throttles open up and because the mixture screws are dialed rich, the engine goes rich; and while not ideal for cruising, at least you don't get a tip-in sag.
If your transfers are supplying too much fuel, the the mixture screws will have to be adjusted lean in compensation. This too is fine at idle.But then when you barely step on the gas,the throttles open up, and because the mixture screws are lean, the engine gets a lil sag, a flat spot, or an outright hesitation. Plus, at cruising speed she will be a lil lean, and if the entire circuit is lean, it can overheat your plugs and cause other driveability issues.

If you want to see what I mean,
do this; Put the throttle upon the fast idle cam at around 1600 to 1800 rpm, and let it settle down for a bit. Now, shut off the mixture fuel, by screwing in the the screws all the way. Notice how the rpm took a hit. now, screw the mixture screws out, until the rpm rises to a peak, then close them 1/4 turn. At whatever rpm the engine is turning, it now has the correct amount of fuel for Neutral/Park. No load running. This will also be very close to ideal in second gear at that running rpm.
Ok now flip the throttle off the fast-idle cam, and see if it will still idle at this mixture-screw to transfer-slot ratio. Do not change the mixture screw setting! If the engine doesn't like this setting, change the transfer fuel instead, by cranking around on the curb-idle screw. If the idle-rpm is unsatisfactory, change it with more or less timing. Voila.
You now have the low-speed circuit tuned for best lean torque at whatever rpm it settled in at.And you also have the idle mixture tuned pretty close. And check out your idle tip-in, It too should be sag-free.
If you changed your Idle-timing, then you will have to re-visit your Power-Timing, and limit it to 34/36*.. END.
As to the brake booster line; I don't like running it to just one intake runner. Every time you step on the brake, the engine will make a little shudder, as the diaphragm readjusts inside the booster. Instead, if the carb has a spigot on the back for that, I use it., If no spigot, I drill and tap the plenum on the secondary side, and install a spigot there.
The port in the intake that you used, to plumb the PCV, is better saved for plumbing to other devices, like a vacuum amplifier , HVAC controls, or emissions devices.
As to air leaks around the throttle shafts; On a V8, the only time I would pay attention to it, is if the throttles do not sit the same on the transfers. Otherwise, it is just a part of the Idle-Air bypass.

Whoever it was that said to check your choke; he is of course referring to the fast idle cam. I neatly avoided that scenario by advising to be sure ALL four throttle valves were closed. I'd credit him, but I cannot find the post?

Thanks for the info, this helps.
 
never had that issue of breaking the carb base or busting off carb mounting fasteners , those are 5/16 threads , takes a lot to break them off , way more then should be applied to card hold down fasteners .
 
never had that issue of breaking the carb base or busting off carb mounting fasteners , those are 5/16 threads , takes a lot to break them off , way more then should be applied to card hold down fasteners .

Are you referring to my post about replacing those bolts with studs and nuts?
If so I am referring to the fact that he's running the bolts in and out of that Aluminum Intake over and over and over and over and over again well guess what? Eventually he would strip the threads out. But if you're not referring to me disregard what I said although that is my reasoning behind me telling him he should get studs and nuts.

As for broken base plates I have bought carburetors with the corner broken off at the base plate. I personally have never broken one. Most of it comes from the guy tightening down two or three of the bolts without the carburetor sitting flush. Next thing you know he's got a broken ear on the corner.
 
nope , another post about twisting the bolts off . i use studs if it works , just got a 6 pack with barry grant mech carbs , and there is no room for hex nuts in some places , so it will be studs and bolts in this case . but as you can see in post #13 my carb has studs .
 
nope , another post about twisting the bolts off . i use studs if it works , just got a 6 pack with barry grant mech carbs , and there is no room for hex nuts in some places , so it will be studs and bolts in this case . but as you can see in post #13 my carb has studs .

Show me yours and I'll show you mine. 6 pac that is.
 
you have a barry grant 6 shooter setup ? mine is for a b motor , i still need to shot some pics of it yet . but my 340 6 pck has not been worked over yet , still cares the old owners fasteners .
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DC 500 cfm carbs. Plan is to try it out on my 340 straight gas first then later the nos just for fun. Then on a 360 going in a LRE.

I did not build this setup. But I love the attention to detail that the guy did that did build it. Notice the acorn nuts on the end carburetor studs and things like that.
 
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Are you referring to my post about replacing those bolts with studs and nuts?
If so I am referring to the fact that he's running the bolts in and out of that Aluminum Intake over and over and over and over and over again well guess what? Eventually he would strip the threads out. But if you're not referring to me disregard what I said although that is my reasoning behind me telling him he should get studs and nuts.

As for broken base plates I have bought carburetors with the corner broken off at the base plate. I personally have never broken one. Most of it comes from the guy tightening down two or three of the bolts without the carburetor sitting flush. Next thing you know he's got a broken ear on the corner.

Same. 302 ford donor motor for a 58 ranchero, Holley avenger broken ear. People think if the nut keeps going...then it mustn't be tight enough...lol i run them snug and then a 1/4 turn, maybe.. Oh well, people learn the hard way sometimes.
Sad thing is the carb was tossed outside on a wood pile for winter. I came back in the spring and seen it. Shook my head, could have just bought a throttle plate for 80.00
 
Had a friend who got the throttle return spring under the carb* ear as he tightened it down. Snapped the ear off. He reattached it with JB Weld. God Bless his heart.

*This was a new Holley 850DP back when they were rather pricey
 
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Ok, I’ve installed a new thick carb gasket and studs, re-routed the PCV plumbing to the carb base and replaced the plastic fuel filter with a metal one, I can say that it runs MUCH better, it still isn’t quite right yet, but it is better.
After putting these parts on, I tried to dial the timing in and discovered that I’m getting no advance from the distributor, I have it set at 10 degrees BTC at idle and it stays at 10 degrees when increasing the engine speed. I’m using and old MOPAR Prestolite tach drive distributor that came with the engine and am using a stock coil and wires and one of those blue hi rev ignition modules.
I’m going to replace the distributor with something newer / better, what’s a decent distributor to get for a car that’s just going to be street driven?
 
You could just fix the distributor you have....

But IMO for what you have the MSD Ready to Run with vac advance is hands down the best. And best of all, the advance weights are way easier to adjust.
 
I'm a bit late to this party, but, I would suggest checking those 4 extra bolt holes that are uncovered using the original gasket. They could be drilled, or broken through to the plenum to cause a vacuum leak. By the way, those holes are for using an early AFB with the narrow bolt pattern.

JMHO....

c2ddf300-701a-46b2-ba0b-576d0c7c736f-jpeg.jpg
 
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