leaf spring removal and replacement

-

nashvegas99

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 29, 2014
Messages
121
Reaction score
0
Location
nashville, tn
while I'm waiting on all the ordered stuff to get here and get started on it, I wanted to ask about one of my upcoming projects for the 65 Valiant. I am going to be replacing the leaf springs and shocks. Whats the best way to get the car up and jack placement etc for the safe and easy removal and replacement of the leaf springs. Whats the best way to do this? I am going back with stock springs from General Springs...



Share on twitter Share on email










PBox_Border_Left_Top.gif
clear1x1.gif
PBox_Border_Right_Top.gif
clear1x1.gif
Our Price: $109.99

Product Code: 33-909
Qty:

clear1x1.gif
PBox_Border_Left_Bottom.gif
clear1x1.gif
PBox_Border_Right_Bottom.gif
clear1x1.gif
clear1x1.gif
Description
clear1x1.gif
clear1x1.gif
DBox_Border_Left_Top.gif
clear1x1.gif
DBox_Border_Right_Top.gif
clear1x1.gif

  • Spring Capacity = 640
  • Spring Rate = 120
  • Amount of Lift = 2-1/2"
  • Measures (A/B) = 35 x 20
  • Width = 2-1/2
  • # of Leaves = 6
  • Front eye bushing included
  • Rear Eye Uses HB891 (2 required per eye - order 4 for a pair of springs or 8 for spring and frame bushings) or V-100 shackle kit (1 per side)
  • Sold Per Side - Order Quantity 2 for a pair
 
IMHO. DO use anti-seize compound on ALL threads on the bottom of of car / truck. and dont forget the brake tubing fittings, and muffler U bolts. after 80,000 miles you will be glad.
 
OK! So, on to answer your question, the best way to go about replacing your springs....

Choke both front tires, jack car up and place jack stands on both side of the car, remove tires and place under car for just incase it should fall for some unknown reason like an aero plane falling out of the sky.
I like to also use stands under the rear and then let the car down onto the stands.

Start spring removal with the U bolts. You should have new one to replace them with. A wiz wheel makes quick work of this. I bolting them can be very hard and suggest that you have WD-40 on hand and a wire brush to clean the threads for easiest removal in this fashion.

Remove the front hanger, 4 nuts.
Remove the front hanger from the front spring eye.
(This may also be done on a bench because it can be really tough to do.)
Remove the rear of the spring from the car. (You'll probably need a pry bar to get the shackle out)
Remove the bushings from frame.

To install;

Install the bushings. A lot of grease or WD-40 will be needed.
Install the front of the spring onto the hanger.
Install the front hanger and spring into the car.
Attach the rear axle tubes to the springs.
Install rear shackles into the frame.
Attach the rear of the springs to the shackles.

You MAY find the rear of the springs a bit hard to get into place. A long (longer the better) steel tube, like a fence post can be used to pry down the rear section of the spring and your buddy can run the shackles in.

Jack the car up, pop on your tires, remove all stands and let it down.
Un-choke the front wheels, drive, enjoy, think about a road trip!

Oh, I forgot, do the shocks before or after the spring replacement, it is easy that way with less parts running around to get kicked and lost. Sometimes the shock will not extend far enough when your doing this.
 
do I need to put the jack stands under the axle shaft housings or on the car frame itself? unfortunately I have to do everything by myself so I just want to make sure that I don't get into something and the rearend fall down to the ground and get out of whack and im unable to get it back together.

thanks so much for the advice. currently I have it all jacked up on all 4's with the stands on the front and the rear end in the back to change out the tank when it gets here.
 
Put the jack stands under the frame rails in front of the springs. Use your floor jack to hold the rear axle up when swapping springs. Don't over torque the U bolt nuts for the leaf springs. They only torque to a max of 45 LB FT. It should be in your service manual. They are not supposed to be as tight as you might think. Also, you are really supposed to replace the U bolts and nuts, as they are only designed to be used once. General spring has those as well.
 
do I need to put the jack stands under the axle shaft housings or on the car frame itself? unfortunately I have to do everything by myself so I just want to make sure that I don't get into something and the rearend fall down to the ground and get out of whack and im unable to get it back together.

I use the stands on the car and rear. Keeping the tires on just creates less room but they need not come off the car. The above is just how I do it.

thanks so much for the advice. currently I have it all jacked up on all 4's with the stands on the front and the rear end in the back to change out the tank when it gets here.

Stands up front as well? I never did rear springs with stand up front and out back.
Keep the car on level ground so she donesn't move.
 
Put the jack stands under the frame rails in front of the springs. Use your floor jack to hold the rear axle up when swapping springs. Don't over torque the U bolt nuts for the leaf springs. They only torque to a max of 45 LB FT. It should be in your service manual. They are not supposed to be as tight as you might think. Also, you are really supposed to replace the U bolts and nuts, as they are only designed to be used once. General spring has those as well.

Please do not ignore Rusty's advice on the torque rate on those u-bolts. When he first posted about that a while back I thought he was joking about it making a difference on the way a car will ride. It DOES make a difference. Prior to his advice I was tightening the heck out of them. I'd even talked to a mechanic at a local Chrysler garage and they weren't aware that there was a specific torque spec, - they just tightened the crap out of them too.
 
I may have mislead...the stands up front are there now b/c I am getting ready to change out the fuel tank and lines up to the front and the MC and rerun lines to the front and back at the same time. sorry 'bout that
 
I did jack stands under the rear frame rails and then unbolted everything with a half inch drive ratchet and 12 point sockets. no stripping or broken bolts. I was shocked at how clean my car was underneath.

I recommend touching up your undercoating/paint where the spring sit while they are out and it's easier to get to.
 
Im getting ready to replace the springs and wanted to put on shocks at the same time. Is there a good driver quality shock to put on the 65 valiant that is just a plain ol' shock, not adjustable and not expensive? Anyone have some ideas as to comparison part numbers or brands?
 
Please do not ignore Rusty's advice on the torque rate on those u-bolts. When he first posted about that a while back I thought he was joking about it making a difference on the way a car will ride. It DOES make a difference. Prior to his advice I was tightening the heck out of them. I'd even talked to a mechanic at a local Chrysler garage and they weren't aware that there was a specific torque spec, - they just tightened the crap out of them too.

X2 I had no idea of the low torque until Rusty posted the info. I loosened mine and tightened them back up with a torque wrench and it did make a difference. Thanks Rusty.
 
-
Back
Top