Leaks around windshield gasket

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goldfish65

goldfish65

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This new windshield gasket came from Precision. Since then I've heard that gaskets from some suppliers fit better than others. The bodyshop had a 'specialist' install it.

The old one fit about the same, with large gaps, it leaked too. Water is coming in at the lower corner and dripping on the carpet from the edge of the dash.

I want to fix the leak myself without removing the windshield again. So far all I've heard is not to use a silicone product. Anyone with how-to advice? Thanks!

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ugh that doesnt fit at all have you tried pushing the glass side of the gasket up to the body try that with like a block of wood see if it will slide up some to hide that terrible fit and fix that leak
 
Looks like the same p.o.s gasket i got.Mines not leaking but looks the same.Some use window urethane when installing as a backup.Messy though.
 
I'm wondering if it's better to install it on a warm day and stretch it some. It was very cold the day it was done. I will try pushing at it with a block of wood. I would not have thought of that....thanks and keep the suggestions coming guys.
 
goldfish65 said:
I'm wondering if it's better to install it on a warm day and stretch it some. It was very cold the day it was done. I will try pushing at it with a block of wood. I would not have thought of that....thanks and keep the suggestions coming guys.
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Hmmm, got to thinking, if I try to work the rubber futher outward, the lockstrip won't be long enough anymore. Grrrr.
 
the lockstrip will move with it what your trying to do is move the gasket higher off the glass edge and more into the body channel another words stretching the gasket more out toward the cars window channel only thing that would happen with the lockstrip is there will become more of a gap were each end meets
 
They make a black windshield adhesive that comes on a roll. You can roll up smaller diameter pieces and tuck it in under the gasket. Time consuming but not messy..
 
On my old 72 Valiant I had a small leak in the gasket as well, what I did was got some black Mono it is a latex product. I pealed back the rubber and and used a Q-tip to apply it under the gasket, it worked great.
AL
 
I just pulled the rear glass out of my 68 fastback and i found a rope like substance with a sticky tar like adhesive on it. Pain to get off. What I am getting to is I used the Butyl Ribbon on many newer cars that i have repaired over the years. Very close to what was in mine! I put a bead of this in the channel were the seal slips on the glass, this will seal this area completely but remain flexible. I then rope the edge and pull the rope to insert the glass into the veh.. This is were it gets relavent to your issue! Get a a cartridge of 3M Urethane and just nip the tip off 1/16th" to allow for a small bead of urethane. I use a trim tool to lift the edge of the seal up enough to get the tip in without making a mess. Pull the trigger on your caulkgun and work around the W/S... Not done yet!! Get some 1 1/2" blue tape and stick it to the seal in the corners and pull tight until it meets the pillar. Tape it to the pillar and let it sit for 24 hours. DONE!
 
Often overlooked....windshield wiper transmissions. Water leaks through them and drips on your feet.....a real pain in the butt.:-D
 
Ya, I just replaced my wiper pivot seals in my '65 barracuda, pain in the butt. But I dont think that is his problem after looking at that gasket. I'm now really hesitant to go out and buy a new windshield gasket if they are going to fit like that.
 
cowl only leaks when the little drain holes on each side of the cowl were the hood torsion bar rest plugs up best to clean them out every so often on the 64 to 66 cudas. I always clean them out and same with the drain holes on the bottom of each door that will prevent any rust for years
 
Thanks, every one of you, for your excellent advice. I will mull it all over and get the windshield opening FIXED! Then I can move on to figuring out why water from the cowl drips on the drivers side (drain holes are not clogged) and do the wiper pivots...one thing at a time :-k



blackjax said:
cowl only leaks when the little drain holes on each side of the cowl were the hood torsion bar rest plugs up best to clean them out every so often on the 64 to 66 cudas. I always clean them out and same with the drain holes on the bottom of each door that will prevent any rust for years
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440Ken said:
Often overlooked....windshield wiper transmissions. Water leaks through them and drips on your feet.....a real pain in the butt.:-D
Click to expand...
 
Today I squeezed this black stuff under the gasket where it meets the metal, per CUUDAK's instructions. Messy and hard to know how much got in there, and it dries pretty quick. I pressed down on it firmly to (hopefully) get a good seal. I was able to coax the gasket outward quite a bit but there's still a gap as pics show. My question is should I fill in the gap with the acrylic goop? Thanks for your suggestions.

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What a mess. That professional installer didn't know ambient temp minimum is 70 degrees ? The gasket was supposed to be pushed all the onto the fence, then the glass put in the gasket. Keep in mind that if a percentage of you metal fence has rusted away you would have issues requiring more sealant between the glass and gasket. Anyway... if that was mine I'd just start over.
Good luck with it.
 
I replaced both the windshield and the weatherstrip in my 65 cuda. I purchased the strips from Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts and while it does not fit much better than yours it does not leak. I did not install it but it looks like no "sealer" material was used. Do you have any rust under the w/strip? I would remove the w/s and start over, checking for rust or anything that could cause a break in the seal. Then re install using the current sealer for new cars as a back up. FYI most windshield replacement Co's will back up their work if it leaks. I also had the water drip on my feet problem and found the seal at the top of the vent box to the underside of the cowl was the problem. Hope that helps
 
Thanks everybody. I think the sealant worked. Still have the leaks elsewhere to work on. 65cuduh, how did you fix the leaky vent box seals...was it hard to do?
 
No the outer gap between rubber and autobody will be there! However you do not want a gap between fence and inner rubber flap, that shoul be sealed. My "professional installer only ran blak krap over upper half and leak like a sieve. They only want to pay for 1 tube due to 15-19 dollar price! Greed.
Anyway bought 2 tubes from NAPA and resealed all around.
Before you open tube heat it up, in sun, or hot water, NOT MICROWAVE! LOL
There is electric gun available, the stuff is real thick and dries FAST!!
Let us know how it goes..........
Opps! I think I read this too late!
 
I needed to replace the box itself because the door was missing. When I pulled out the old one I noticed the foam seal was rotted so I inspected the "new" used one, and it's seal was in about the same shape so I scraped the rotten foam material off and put a BIG bead of black windshield sealant in it's place and then installed the box. Check your gasket and if it's rotten replace it with sealant.
 
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