Leaky Valve Cover

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Chrono

Chrono

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Ok, so I had a leaky valve cover when I bought the car.
Couldn't get ahold of a cover gasket, so I used black RTV.
Its leaking again....i plan on redoing it this weekend, any tips or ideas to help out?
Should I just get another valve cover gasket? Are there any kind of bolt kits that help hold it down or spread the load more evenly?
Any help is appreciated
 
a little more info....cast or tin covers? etc.
I always use gaskets rtv or silicone just don't do it for me
 
Use a rubber valve cover gasket. Clean the mating surface of the valve cover well, there should be tabs on the rubber gasket to insert it onto the cover first, and have it stay there without falling off. Rubber enables you to take the valve cover off and on again without having to replace it each time if you had a cork gasket.

Why not check/adjust your valves while the cover's off? A simple valve adjustment can go a long way for better drive-ability and fuel economy.

Best,

1970Dart198
 
Make sure the gasket surface of the cover's gasket edge is straight and flat; it often becomes dimpled in around the bolt holes and you need to flip it over, lay on the edge of a wood block and use a small hammer and flat to drive it flat again.
 
1970Dart198 said:
Use a rubber valve cover gasket. Clean the mating surface of the valve cover well, there should be tabs on the rubber gasket to insert it onto the cover first, and have it stay there without falling off. Rubber enables you to take the valve cover off and on again without having to replace it each time if you had a cork gasket.

Why not check/adjust your valves while the cover's off? A simple valve adjustment can go a long way for better drive-ability and fuel economy.

Best,

1970Dart198
Click to expand...

This just about sums it all up.
 
1970Dart198 said:
Use a rubber valve cover gasket. Clean the mating surface of the valve cover well, there should be tabs on the rubber gasket to insert it onto the cover first, and have it stay there without falling off. Rubber enables you to take the valve cover off and on again without having to replace it each time if you had a cork gasket.

Why not check/adjust your valves while the cover's off? A simple valve adjustment can go a long way for better drive-ability and fuel economy.

Best,

1970Dart198
Click to expand...

Thanks. I actually did the valve lash adjustment when I put the RTV on it. Made a huge difference.

Its not a cast unit by the way. Stamped I believe?

Also, has anyone tried valve cover spreader bars? Would they help?
 
The stock valve covers on slants are very sturdy and hardy covers. I would not recommend installing one of those chrome valve covers as they are thin and look cheap. I just cleaned the bolts and threads and put on anti seize lubricant on the valve cover bolts and torqued them just a little past snug. Clean both the head and valve cover mating surfaces as any dirt or grime that can cause a leak.

Best,

1970Dart198
 
They will seal up well without spreader bars. Just don't overtorque and use a skim coat of blue RTV on the gakset, both sides.
 
Real Gaskets of TN makes silicone valve cover and oil pan gaskets. I put both on my 64 slant, but haven't run the engine yet. Pricier but should last forever. They are stiffer than most rubber, so need a very flat surface.
 
we are going to use studs with castle nuts when we put the valve cover back on my slant. we installed 3 breathers i bougth at edelbrock to help the engine breath better. i'll post some pics as soon as it's done.
 

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Clean all the rtv off, that you used. VC & Cylinder head.
Glue a new VC gasket ( i like cork)to the VC, using Edelbrock Gasgacinch. Put Gasgacinch on both the VC and gasket. Let it set up, then install the gasket on the VC. Set the VC flat on a bench with some weight on top, and let dry over night. Now the gasket is glued to the VC.

Now apply a thin layer of grease to the other side of the gasket,and lay it on the head.
Use the factory bolts, that's all you will ever need.
Tighten them snug, do not over tighten them.
That's it.
 
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