LED bulbs for garage/shop

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Oh, yeah, if you're doing colour-critical work (body/paint, etc) then colour rendering is super important. There are high-CRI (95+) LEDs, but they're not widely marketed to consumers and they're expensive. The highest-CRI artificial light source is (wait for it) halogen. A halogen light fed its full rated voltage gives 99+ CRI (100 is perfect). Most fluorescents and LEDs are down around 75-82, metal-halide HIDs are around 70-75, high-pressure sodium (the salmon-coloured ones) are 60-65, and low-pressure sodium (the deep orange ones) are 10-15.
 
Thanks for the tech/theory info.

I used to be the property lighting guy at a HUGE, sprawling resort complex.

I worked with everything from 32v front desk counter lights, through Halide and HPS street lights.

I kind of inherited that job and learned by self taught OJT.

Amazing what wrong and costly practices were in place prior to me taking over.

I even put in some very early medium base CFL for testing circa 1990 back when they were two-piece. I still have some of those.
 
YY1 said:
Thanks for the tech/theory info.

I used to be the property lighting guy at a HUGE, sprawling resort complex.

I worked with everything from 32v front desk counter lights, through Halide and HPS street lights.

I kind of inherited that job and learned by self taught OJT.

Amazing what wrong and costly practices were in place prior to me taking over.

I even put in some very early medium base CFL for testing circa 1990 back when they were two-piece. I still have some of those.
Click to expand...
You mean the fixture that screwed in with transformer, then the bulb plugged into that?
 
yep


...and I need to correct the specs on my new LED shop lights.

4500 lumen, not 3000.
 
If anyone's interested, here's my lower lever train layout progress.

For all of You Train Lovers

Those 3000-3500 color temp bulbs do give photos an almost cephia tone coloration.

My "camera" is a 2011 cell phone with no flash.

In person, the light looks very natural.
 
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