Let's bring the pundits out! (your suggestions sought)

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drpreposterous

drpreposterous

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In Spring, 2018, two tremors will shake my automotive world. My daughter will graduate from the mega-bucks private university that has made me eat Ramen for four years. And the lease on my 2015 Jeep Renegade will end. When the ground stops trembling from those events, I will have $12K stashed and will need a daily driver. An A-body or perhaps a C-body will be that car.

Let's get this much out of the way...

Yeah, I know no upgrade will make it as safe as a '98 Civic. Yeah, I know even a solid example that is aggressively undercoated will be toast before three to four years(if that). Yeah, I'm aware of the reliability challenge for a guy who is a dynamite RN but has zero aptitude and experience with a wrench. But look, everyone...I figure the government is going to make us all sit smiley-faced in self-driving cars before too long. I had a ball before my kids started college running about (in succession) in a '64 Dart, a '60 Studebaker Lark, and a '77 LeBaron. I loathe the Jeep and anything built after 1990. I have seven years to go before retirement (six in Spring, 2018). And I have all of four miles to traverse to the hospital I work at. The thought of returning to vintage Mopar sustains me through tough days at work. So, with no further ado, I am tapping your collective experience and wisdom.

I want to find out what would be the first three things you'd do to make it safer and more reliable. I figure on spending enough to get a solid-bodied and solid running number 3 car. Don't mind more doors at all. Probably can't do a 2-door anyway, since that $12K is all I have budgeted to get going, including the car's selling price. I don't get too worked up if originality has gone away like Madonna's virginity. From what I've seen just as a lurker, I already figure on:

1. Converting to disc brakes,
2. Electronic ignition,
3. Better headlghts/3rd brake light (paging Daniel Stern),
4. Boiling out or replacing the fuel tank, replacing fuel pump, fuel and brake lines/hoses/etc.
5. Installing shoulder belts, maybe a seat swap for head rests, Scat Procar or Sebring convertible seats.

You may agree those are essentials.. But what would you consider highly desirable beyond these? I see things like Hotchkis TVS kits and Holley Sniper fuel injection, and everything looks wonderful! But I dunno! If you are so inclined, give me the three things you would do after what I listed. I truly appreciate all responses.
 
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drpreposterous said:
In Spring, 2018, two tremors will shake my automotive world. My daughter will graduate from the mega-bucks private university that has made me eat Ramen for four years. And the lease on my 2015 Jeep Renegade will end. When the ground stops trembling from those events, I will have $12K stashed and will need a daily driver. An A-body or perhaps a C-body will be that car.

Let's get this much out of the way...

Yeah, I know no upgrade will make it as safe as a '98 Civic. Yeah, I know even a solid example that is aggressively undercoated will be toast before three to four years(if that). Yeah, I'm aware of the reliability challenge for a guy who is a dynamite RN but has zero aptitude and experience with a wrench. But look, everyone...I figure the government is going to make us all sit smiley-faced in self-driving cars before too long. I had a ball before my kids started college running about (in succession) in a '64 Dart, a '60 Studebaker Lark, and a '77 LeBaron. I loathe the Jeep and anything built after 1990. I have seven years to go before retirement (six in Spring, 2018). And I have all of four miles to traverse to the hospital I work at. The thought of returning to vintage Mopar sustains me through tough days at work. So, with no further ado, I am tapping your collective experience and wisdom.

I want to find out what would be the first three things you'd do to make it safer and more reliable. I figure on spending enough to get a solid-bodied and solid running number 3 car. Don't mind more doors at all. Probably can't do a 2-door anyway, since that $12K is all I have budgeted to get going, including the car's selling price. I don't get too worked up if originality has gone away like Madonna's virginity. From what I've seen just as a lurker, I already figure on:

1. Converting to disc brakes,
2. Electronic ignition,
3. Better headlghts/3rd brake light (paging Daniel Stern),
4. Boiling out or replacing the fuel tank, replacing fuel pump, fuel and brake lines/hoses/etc.
5. Installing shoulder belts, maybe a seat swap for head rests, Scat Procar or Sebring convertible seats.

You may agree those are essentials.. But what would you consider highly desirable beyond these? I see things like Hotchkis TVS kits and Holley Spitfire fuel injection, and everything looks wonderful! But I dunno! If you are so inclined, give me the three things you would do after what I listed. I truly appreciate all responses.
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12 k is gonna get you a very nice A body and I wouldn't be surprised if it had most of the stuff already done to it for that price.

However, if not done, I'd upgrade the cooling system, complete suspension rebuild, and then look into an od trans or even a gear vendors if the budget allows.

Best of luck
 
Best of luck[/QUOTE said:
Thanks, Duke! I don't know how nice of one I can get when that cash figure not only needs to cover the car's purchase price but also the mods/repairs needed to make it daily ready. I have to out-source the work needed as I haven't the tools, experience or time to do it.
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Depending on exactly what you're looking for, there's some very nice drivers between 7-8 k, even less for a 4 door or a wagon
 
And I'm not sure where you're located but there's a 68 cuda 340 in very nice shape for sale here in Indiana for right at 10,000. I know you're talking 6 months or more from now but that gives you a rough idea of where things stand
 
I'll go a different direction.

I found this via word of mouth. 88k miles, one repaint. Original interior & top, engine bay also.

A35 towing package so it has some HD suspension goodies.

383-2 barrel, plenty of pep, sucks gas but a joy to drive & very comfortable.

It came with the body color steelies, so they are on it now.

I sold the chrome wheels pictured for almost enough to pay for Plymouth Division hubcaps, a NOS cone style sure-grip unit & having it installed.

No other modifications needed or desired.

So with your 12 K budget in mind that would have left me 8K for gas, upkeep & insurance. :)
fury.JPG
 
#1 Tires
#2 brake upgrade/refresh
#3 cooling system
#4 fuel system

But there's more to it.
Here's an old article I kept (hope pic is legible)

image.jpg
 
Alaskan_TA said:
I'll go a different direction.

I found this via word of mouth. 88k miles, one repaint. Original interior & top, engine bay also.

A35 towing package so it has some HD suspension goodies.

383-2 barrel, plenty of pep, sucks gas but a joy to drive & very comfortable.

It came with the body color steelies, so they are on it now.

I sold the chrome wheels pictured for almost enough to pay for Plymouth Division hubcaps, a NOS cone style sure-grip unit & having it installed.

No other modifications needed or desired.

So with your 12 K budget in mind that would have left me 8K for gas, upkeep & insurance. :)
View attachment 1715064092
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I think I whimpered when I saw it! Wow! That's a dream-mobile. I want. I want. I want.
 
I searched for one like it for years, I do love the more-doors.

A guy I knew down in Hanover had some broadcast sheets to donate for the 'found' section on HH, so I went to visit him.

He mentioned possibly 'letting one of the cars go', so I asked 'which one?' He got it out of storage the next week so I went & paid for it. VERY happy to have it, I love it.
 
Mine has AC.

It does not work.

I do not care. ;-)

Crank out vent windows rock!
 
I put 80 miles a day on a 73. Daily driver for at least 15 years.
But it's got an 86 318 and trans and Diplomat rear.
I've driven them car across country and back about 10 years ago.
So here's my advice since it looks like you know what you are doing mechanics wise.
Since its going to be driven get something you can get spare sheet metal and accessories for. Not an odd model.
Forget a land barge. Small block A body with disk brakes. Probably something from them 70s. I'm tall. Darts don't have the head room. Dusters are better for big people.
Yes headlight mod first thing. I've gotten by rill this year. The original wiring had a melt down. There's a thread on it . Prompted me to put in Bosch relays. Bought them pieces on Amazon and did it like that.
 
adriver said:
I put 80 miles a day on a 73. Daily driver for at least 15 years.
But it's got an 86 318 and trans and Diplomat rear.
I've driven them car across country and back about 10 years ago.
So here's my advice since it looks like you know what you are doing mechanics wise.
Since its going to be driven get something you can get spare sheet metal and accessories for. Not an odd model.
Forget a land barge. Small block A body with disk brakes. Probably something from them 70s. I'm tall. Darts don't have the head room. Dusters are better for big people.
Yes headlight mod first thing. I've gotten by rill this year. The original wiring had a melt down. There's a thread on it . Prompted me to put in Bosch relays. Bought them pieces on Amazon and did it like that.
Click to expand...
I'm 6'3" (ya, I get called Big Nurse). But it seems to me I fit okay in Dad's '74 Dart when I was a teen driver. I have a short trunk and long legs, though...
 
I'm not sure of what else to get, but your first 5 items are well thought out. I know head rests are a nuisance and hard to see around, but about 3 years ago I came to emergency stop (with my Camry) at intersection with a fire engine coming crossways. I stopped in time, but some young woman really whacked me from behind.

I went to the ER and only had a minor headache, but I shudder to think what it would have been like without those head rests. I'm going to put them in my Barracuda.
 
drpreposterous said:
I'm 6'3" (ya, I get called Big Nurse). But it seems to me I fit okay in Dad's '74 Dart when I was a teen driver. I have a short trunk and long legs, though...
Click to expand...

At 6'3" I find a Dart has very little headroom for me.
A Duster works great.
Don't overlook the later Dart Sport.
They came with good things that make good drivers.
Disk, A/C, fold down seats.

I was typing on a cell last night. And I didn't think about the AC question.
I get from point A to point B on the interstate. And my home trip is at night.
So AC isn't too much of an issue with me in my daily commute.
But down here there are two or three months that you will miss having AC.
Detroit?
The car and interior color will make a difference in the summer.
I know from experience.

The other thing you will have to think about is cold weather up there.
We don't get the snow and ice you probably do.
What about that? Do you have a back up plan?
Salt?

And insurance.
It looks like a limited use policy isn't going to work for this car.
If you don't have collision and some one hits your 12K car, you will be fighting someone else's insurance to get it fixed.
I don't know if a standard insurance company will be much help.
It can be a problem.
 
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Well, I don't know exactly what I would do based on what it is exactly that I end up with. The future car may or may not have disc brakes to start with and I find it pointless to up grade the factory brakes for a causal driver. I am not knocking the bennifit of bigger brakes in anyway shape or form.

Same with ignition. Factory points or electronic is OK. Aftermarket material helps a good bit more in efficiency.

I'll take it from a point of a good running car that is fit for duty as is and as it was stock. So the 3 (or possible 4th) things I would upgrade right off the bat would be;

Fuel injection
Ignition
(which may come with the F.I. set up.)
Suspension
(Wider tires at all 4 corners for sure)
Exhaust
Even duals off of the exhaust manifolds is good.

The F.I. Manufacturer could be a F.I. Tech, MSD or Holley Snipper. A trio of inexpensive units that work well.
Read up on the systems to what they include and need.

Upgrade stock suspension can be OK! Depending on what your doing. Thicker T bars, quality shocks, anti roll bars, stock or not. All a good start and not bad stuff. Jumping up in the aftermarket stuff like a Gerst, RMS, etc... can get expensive quick and may be overkill for a around the town driver. But it is what you want to build the car into. All that have these set ups race about them.
(Talk to Abodyjoe about his RMS)

Exhaust. Be it duals from the manifolds or a full TTI set up from stem to stern, a otherwise stock 273 or 318 will pick up power & efficiency.

I left the ignition for last because (most) modern F.I. set ups come with timing control. However, if a F.I. set up is a little far away, a few basic parts can help what you have to start with inexpensively. If you have an electronic ignition, you could just swap on a MP Chrome box or equal with the proper ballast resistor and a good coil. Call it a day with new wires & plugs. Tune the carb crisp and it will be good to you.
 
everyone has their receipe. main thing is having a car that everything is in good working condition, be it replaced with quality new parts or rebuilt originals. case in point. example: I had a 71 demon 10 yrs back with completely r ebuilt slant, new everything, radiator, carb, choke, brakes, exhaust, frontend,rebuilt trans, it would start with 2 pumps of the pedal in Missouri at 5 below and run like new....... ( it was NEW)..... and NO FI. i am old and old school...OK so it still had the original PS ( I hate old mopar PS)...
discs are great IF you have to stop in a hurry. seats. my tastes send me to the high back buckets of the early seventies. MY TASTES. ha
drive in winter in Detroit? by a car that came undercoad, and do it all AGAIN!

I picked up a rust free pretty much survivor 79 Volare slant car, runs and drives perfect.....you would be surprised what a pleasure it is and how affordable it was. I just had to get some exhaust replaced and those gosh awful 20 inch wheels and bandage tires!!! happy hunting!
 
Allpar shows a '76 Valiant sedan 38.3" of front headroom and 37.2" for a same vintage Duster. Is it possible they're off base, or does a Duster just seem taller?
 
Sedan 4-doors have taller windshields than the same model 2-doors.
 
ya just cut 4 inches out of the floor pan and lower it all. get a builder that needs new floor pans anyway!!? ha

I would not know bout fit, I am only 6 foot.
 
$12K will get you a lot of car. In A or C body. I'm 6'1", and I fell into a 94 LHS that grew on me. I'm putting money into it to bring it back to where it's reliable and safe. I like 4drs and it can carry my golf clubs and anything else I can think of in the truck and the 6way power leather seat rules...lol. With the parts I have about $1800 into it. So look around and find something you can go see, maybe bring a more technical friend to see it too.
 
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