Let's talk instrument cluster voltage limiters!

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Bill Crowell

Bill Crowell

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A replacement voltage limiter costs $51.00. NO WAY!!

I'm aware of the 7805 integrated circuit mod and want to perform it on my car:

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-instrument-voltage-regulator64.html

But the above link pertains to a 1964 model-year Mopar. The parts book lists 3 different voltage limiters, depending on year.

My question is: can the 7805 integrated circuit mod in the above link be done on any year Mopar that has an instrument cluster voltage limiter? Or must the circuit be modified for later-model Mopes?
 
It looks like the same mod Mopar Muscle did in there mag some years back. I did it in my Cuda many years ago and it has performed perfectly since.

I'll have to get back to you on the details later.
 
Every one keeps talking 7805. Per the '62-'65mopar site, a 7805 is a 7805. Amazing. He went to numerous Radio Shacks and found the parts. I've checked numerous Radio Shacks around here and no one has it, nor Knows what I'm talking about. But.. if you look at the picture the number on the chip is NTE960. So what gives. That part is available. I've also had several computer die hards trying to find the 7805 and all they find is the NTE960. So...
 
Bill Crowell said:
A replacement voltage limiter costs $51.00. NO WAY!!

I'm aware of the 7805 integrated circuit mod and want to perform it on my car:

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-instrument-voltage-regulator64.html

But the above link pertains to a 1964 model-year Mopar. The parts book lists 3 different voltage limiters, depending on year.

My question is: can the 7805 integrated circuit mod in the above link be done on any year Mopar that has an instrument cluster voltage limiter? Or must the circuit be modified for later-model Mopes?
Click to expand...

Talk to RedFish. He is a member here... he'll fix you up!
 
Quantum53 said:
Every one keeps talking 7805. Per the '62-'65mopar site, a 7805 is a 7805. Amazing. He went to numerous Radio Shacks and found the parts. I've checked numerous Radio Shacks around here and no one has it, nor Knows what I'm talking about. But.. if you look at the picture the number on the chip is NTE960. So what gives. That part is available. I've also had several computer die hards trying to find the 7805 and all they find is the NTE960. So...
Click to expand...


I'm an old time electronics guy and I can assure you those computer types know nothing of components. That NTE 960 # is a cross reference to the original part. 78XX part #'s were a series of 3 terminal voltage regulators. A 7805 would be a +5V regulator. In the bad old days, most semiconductors were known by what were called JEDEC part #'s. GTE/Sylvania had a very successful line of replacement semiconductors and developed a cross reference that has become a standard of it's own. Originally, the parts were labelled ECG ***, but NTE took up where GTR/Sylvania left off and you can substitute NTE for ECG.

As to the very common regulator mod, yes, regulating the voltage to +5V will give you acceptable results, but the original regulator was more of a pulse regulator. It worked much like a turn signal flasher, turning the power on and off with about a 40% duty cycle.

So much for my electronics history lesson.
 
A solid state unit that will plug in to your panel just like original may be your best choise.
The DeMonIVR was designed spacificly for the a-body rallye panel, replacing that limiter inside the fuel gauge. Since Aug.07 I have serviced 34 of those gauges for use with this ivr.
Becuase this ivr design is universal enough for other applications it has found a home in many brands of cars, trucks, vintage tractors, etc..
Other instrument service companies purchase 3 at a time and I have no clue where those are being used.
#85 ships out today. To my knowledge there isn't one unit failed.
 
Sorry, later never came, I got busy and forgot. I was thinking about Redfish sometime after I posted, but again, I forgot about this thread.

Sorry about that fellas. I like Redfish's idea. The write up I mentioned is much like what he has except, his is nice and finished product where as the write up has you do it and it was a pain in the butt to finish up nicely.
 
The problem is that both of the plug-in replacement voltage limiters/regulators mentioned above cost about $50, while a 7805 and a heat sink cost only approximately $7.50.
 
RedFish, I was reading on your site that the Gas gauge needs to be "calibrated" for the IVR install. Looking inside my gauge, it looks like there is no adjustment, just the removal or insulating of the bimetallic strip that needs to occur. What sort of calibration needs to be done? Isn't it just your IVR that is required (given we know what to remove from the inside of the gas gauge?)

Thanks! Looking at ordering one before I reinstall my dash.
 
I must warn you, DO NOT attempt to adjust your gauge.
I really should update the website. It says I use a sender to calibrate a gauge along with other "shade tree" like statements. Truth is I bought the book of factory specs for all Stuart-Warner / Mopar gauges and senders, along with the equipment to properly test and recalibrate when needed. Nearly every gauge I've touched has needed some adjustment.
There is a bimetal strip inside that bows when heated. Thats what moves the needle. Over time that bimetal strip gets a fixed bow in it where is was originally straight as a arrow. The adjustment is made with a small screw driver in those slots on the back of the gauge ( look again at your gauge ).
again I must warn you, DO NOT attempt to adjust your gauge.

calibraitiing hidden.jpg
 
you want info hear it is. www.mcmelectronics.com they put radio shack to shame. part# an7805 voltage regulator 79 cents. punch the number in google and you can find circiuts. you can build it cheap but you really have to know what your doing. heat sinks are free. find a piece of scrap metal in the garage.
 
I really dont want to try and justify my sales price but...
all heatsinks are not created equal. There are 1000s of them to choose from.
If you would like to find a sourse for the extrusion I use then have it machined, go ahead. If you do it for less than 13.00 each PLEASE tell me how. If you can buy the hook up wire I use for less than 51.00 per spool , That would be great too.
Now leaving this thread. Happy moparing :)
 
for all the time and hastle to build one redfishes regulator is a good investment and you know it will be right.
 
"you can build it cheap but you really have to know what your (sic) doing"

With only 3 wires to connect, it would be pretty hard to make a mistake.

"...all heatsinks are not created equal. There are 1000s of them to choose from. If you would like to find a sourse (sic) for the extrusion I use then have it machined, go ahead. If you do it for less than 13.00 each PLEASE tell me how."

A really hefty finned heat sink for a "TO"-case semiconductor is $.98 from Mouser Electronics.

"for all the time and hastle (sic) to build one redfishes (sic) regulator is a good investment and you know it will be right."

Not much time and hassle are involved in mounting the 7805 to a heat sink and connecting 3 wires.
 
Before we get too invested in a 7805-versus-custom-built-limiter war, let's keep in mind that the #7805 really is not well suited to this task. It works okeh, but that's all. It has serious operational deficiencies compared to the original points-type limiter and to purpose-built electronic regulators. I don't have a problem paying the price for a purpose-built regulator, for a few reasons:

1. It has real, substantial operational advantages over a 7805-based limiter. These are covered in great detail in the link I provided further up this thread.

2. Under-dash work is a PITA, particularly on cars with the limiter built into the gauge. I want to do it once and never have to think about it again for as long as I own the car.

3. Because it is a one-time purchase, the higher price of a proper limiter vs. a 7805 hack spreads out really thin over the life of the car.

I would really rather fix one thing right than two things half-assedly.
 
A voltage regulator is a voltage regulator.

The instrument panels on my old Mopars are of the printed-circuit type, and they are easy to remove from the dashboard. Once they're out, it is really easy to install the 7805 and heat sink.
 
The DemonIVR is 33.55 shipped to your door if I'm not mistaken..... not $50.


I personally don't see a problem with the $33.55 price tag for the regulator. Lot of people have the talent to get the required parts and build the regulator themselves, but there is lot of people that don't. Those people without that talent will buy the regulator like someone buying a soft drink.... think nothing of it. Some people might have the talent but do not have the time to buy the parts and assemble the regulator. These people just buy it and go on with their lives.

So Bill......it's really how you look at different situations that others might be in rather than the way Bill see it. Not everyone is in Bill's world.
 
slantsixdan wrote: The device in question is not a voltage regulator in the sense you are thinking of. Go RTFlink (or don't, and remain ignorant. Your choice.)"

Right, Dan. The devices you and the others have mentioned aren't really regulators because they only regulate the instrument voltage intermittently, whereas the 7805 IC will regulate it continuously. I would rather have continuous regulation.
 
Bill Crowell said:
Right, Dan. The devices you and the others have mentioned aren't really regulators because they only regulate the instrument voltage intermittently
Click to expand...

Incorrect.

I would rather have continuous regulation.
Click to expand...

If you ever choose to understand how your gauges work, you will no longer have this preference.

But again, it is your choice to remain ignorant. The consequences are on your head (and/or your dashboard).
 
I'll match my knowledge of electronics and the workings of Mopar instruments with yours any day of the week. I don't feel there is any need for you to insult me just because you don't happen to agree with my analysis. It just betrays your insecurity about your opinions. If you really felt secure in your opinions, you wouldn't feel the need to push them to the point of insult. You really need to chill.
 
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