Yeah, so that brings me to this question bc I have a bad back and don’t wanna go to crazy the car has a 727 trans. I have the heads obviously off and the headers out of the way. What’s the best approach to pull just the engine ? A jack under the trans and undo the bell housing bolts since I can get to them all in the engine bay ?
Lifter and cam damage.
- Thread starter nick0705
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I also don’t have that much room in the garage so if I can just remove the engine it would be easier I know doing both is ideal but just trying to pull the engine.
In addition to what you said, pull the starter, and take off the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate.
EVERYTHING has to be cleaned, or you’ll be wasting your time and money.
EVERYTHING has to be cleaned, or you’ll be wasting your time and money.
I wouldn't even bother with the filter at this point and put a new oil pump on the list of things to buy.......it's scored for sure.
Thanks guys. I guess I got a lot to do. Sucks that I just bought it a couple months ago it sounded fine no issues other than some electrical didn’t hear any noise in the motor either. Gotta love hot rods. It also blows I live in a area where idk where the closest engine shop is for machine work so that will be a hassle as well. I guess I have some decisions to make maybe buy a short block or save up for a crate from bluepoint
What area in the states are you?
Before you do anything you might want to consider your options. Think about what your goals are for the motor and how you will use the car. Then do a thorough accounting for time and money that will need to be spent for each option. I would recommend doing this before you go any further.
I just went through this. Twice in a row. It sucks, but that's the only way to do it. What really sucked was, the second time, the filter got every single bit of it, but there was no way to tell except to pull it back down again.
Gator
Mopar or No Car
I just experienced the same problem with the cam and lifter failure and since my 340 had already been bored out to .030 about 30k miles ago instead of tearing it down and pretty much rebuilding it adding all bearings I opted to go with a 408 Blue Print Crate Engine from Summit where it has a 30 month 50k mile warranty. This was a no brainer for me. Good luck to which ever avenue you decide to go.
Yep, I was reading along.
I’ve been through the cleaning thing twice.
My partner and I wiped a cam on our Stocker back in the 90’s.
Right now I’m cleaning my 360. It spun a rod, but same cleaning process.
And yep, you don’t know where that metal got to.
And to the OP: @nick0705 Even if your cylinders were perfect, they most likely have had metal going up and down them.
It sucks, you have to have the right attitude about pulling it down, if that’s the route you take. I’ve taken the opportunity to get a valve job and guides, plus I’ve been learning a ton of other stuff with help from the good folks on FABO.
Negative Ghost Rider!
All flat tappet that I have seen
What is your budget to rebuild this motor? What are your goals for the motor? Power? Mileage?What fuel do you plan on using? How do you plan to use this car? What rear end and gear ratio does it have now and do you plan on keeping them? What tire size do you have now and do you plan on keeping them? Pictures of the car are always nice.
I know that a lot of questions but the more information you give out the better the advice you will recieve.
I know that a lot of questions but the more information you give out the better the advice you will recieve.
Gator
Mopar or No Car
And the previous owner said he ran it for only 500 miles? From the looks of the lifters, cam Lobe and pistons he absolutely new something was wrong and did not disclose that to the buyer.
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