Lifter clearancing

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lenweiler

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I'm using a 340 repro block for my build, and there are clearance issues when using roller lifters. And there is a choice lifter to keep the grinding to a minimum.
These are MP pieces. Crane is now the supplier for these. The 'rivets' are not as thick as other man.
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A couple of shots.........
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You'll notice how close these are to the block. Shady Dell suggested about .040" clearance. I've got to hold my tongue just the right way to get these puppies in the bores.
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I had a similar problem with my stock '73 340 block and Comp rollers, I just ground the block here and there to make then clear. I can't put my lifters in at the same height, one has to be lower than the other and the tongue thing too.

Chuck
 
I hear that. These are especially tight on these new blocks. And the water is 'right' next door.
 
I probably should have used the word sanded instead of ground because they fit but a couple of pairs was just barely dragging on the block and I didn't want to take a chance on binding.

Chuck
 
I have no experience ;) Ill say that first are foremost, but what I have read(that is ALOT), especially in my stroker book, is that a roller cam is NOT suggested in these blocks for that specific reasoning, do not try to clearance it either, you WILL hit water. The only solutions I know of are having shady dell speed shop clearance it, as they apparently are doing now, or use Jesel tappets with the special tappet bushing that have a keyway and dont use a tie bar. It is supposed to work very well, but comes with a big $$$ price tag. The only other option is to use ISKY tappets that have the tie bar located below the seat for the pushrod. If you grind, you will hit water ;) Dont waste your block, do it right once.

Good luck!
Ryan
 
Len, whos set up is that again? Nevermind, I re-read MP, AKA, Crane. Right?
MP race block right.
Stock blocks lack proper clearance?
I thought someone out there, Crane and/or Comp Cams have drop in units. I'm sure there not race rollers though. (If I'm right and remember correctly.

OK, why is it the bar is on that side and not the other.

Can someone surpply a picture of an Isky set up?
 
Fish. If the tiebar is on the inboard, then they run interference with the pushrods. I looked into those special Iskies. Talked to them. They knew nothing about them
As far as "don't waste a good block". Well. I've done a pile of grinding in my time, and I know my way around a side/end grinder. Shady Dell gave me a few hints about the process. This was supposed to be a helpful thread for anyone doing the same on one of their own repro/R3 blocks. Just need a lite touch. And this is a newer repro, so there is a little more room.
 
I havent messed witht eh new blocks either...So thanks for the heads up. The Comps I use require that same tongue action too...lol.
 
Moper, are the comps the retro fits?

Who has used the Crane retro fits?

Ya, you can guess what homework your helping me with.
 
Rob, Those are solid lifters. The retro fits are Hyd. Im not sure if the have the same clearance issues or not.
 
Yeah, I went through to water on my early R3 block with the older MP lifters. They sent "new and improved" lifters but I never got around to installing them. Since then I've heard the Crane lifters are breaking and not recommended anymore. I don't know this for a fact though.
 
Thanks Adam. I'm want to go Hyd. roller actually. (Hummm, me thinks I was braking up the wrong tree here.)
I'm still going on the street with the next 3 or so engines. Unless I win some money (or get back into making **** films.)
 
Now phase 2.
Now that I can drop the lifter down on the boss, I can measure the amount that has to be ground to 'sink' the lifter.
The tappet boss is higher than a normal OE block by as much as .400".
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If no metal is removed from the casting, the cam/lifter will lose contact near the heel of the cam. At zero lift, there was about a .200" space between mine. Depending on your cams' base circle, that space could be more or less. I ground mine down about .400".
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It was recommended that I have at least .040" between the link's rivet and the casting. Sorry about this pic.
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That's a W7 head. I'll not be using them on this build. They're just there plugging the holes.
 
Big sigh of relief. ALL the grinding is done now. The block can now be delivered to the machine shop. Rest of the parts are supposed to be on the way. Looking forward to seeing RJ's artestry.
 
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