Lighting problem

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OK, it's time to get really serious, and not that difficult. Check the last diagram I posted, and "rig" a clip lead through a fuse and hook one wire up at a time to be sure the lighting wiring/ bulbs are OK

In other words, just hook 12V to the wires going to the front/ rear lights, mostly the rear. Hook first to the brown wire, then to the dark green, and check that the right, and left turn lamps light up

Do the same thing on the tan and green going to the front

If that all works OK, then hook everything up "normal" and "clip lead" (jumper around) the brake light switch.

"We" are all gonna feel stupid if it turns out the switch was really bad all this time.
 
67Dart273 said:
OK, it's time to get really serious, and not that difficult. Check the last diagram I posted, and "rig" a clip lead through a fuse and hook one wire up at a time to be sure the lighting wiring/ bulbs are OK

In other words, just hook 12V to the wires going to the front/ rear lights, mostly the rear. Hook first to the brown wire, then to the dark green, and check that the right, and left turn lamps light up

Do the same thing on the tan and green going to the front
Click to expand...

I did this, everything checked out. Haven't hooked a hot lead to the white wire from the brake light switch though. I guess when I tested that I had power going through the brake light switch when blinker/4 way was unplugged I assumed it was good.
 
Yeah, see, I didn't think of that. You could have something in that whole line from, say, the fuse box--poor connection at the fuse, bad wire, wire connection, or bad contacts in the switch itself that when you put a LOAD on it, it drops power, but the "light load" (pun intended!!) from the test light or meter shows it as OK.
 
Dustin said:
I think that maybe the problem. I just found this posted by Redfish which is the same problem im having but the wires for my rear lights are green and brown instead of green and yellow.
Click to expand...


Wrong, Same universal color code as found on a 4 or 5 wire trailer light harness. Green and yellow are brake/turn. Brown is park lamps.
 
Ok, the new brake light switch still didnt do the trick. Still losing all power from the fuse for the hazard and brake lights when the pedal is depressed. When the pedal is not depressed I got 12.6v to the switch, depress the pedal and I loose all power back to the fuse. Including the flasher relay. Now this is what I dont understand. I test the fuse body (steel ends), both ends have 12.6v. I test the 2 fingers that hold the fuse on the side that goes to the flasher relay and they lose power then the pedal is depressed. Yet the fuse itself still has 12.6 volts on both ends. How does that work? When pedal is not depressed the fingers get 12.6v.
 
Update to finish off this thread incase people search for this in the future. Turns out the fuse for the 4 ways and brake lights must of had a break right behind the end cap thats not visible. Redfish and I have been talking this last week, and he pointed out to me he has seen that problem before. The break would allow small amounts of current to pass through, but not allow large amounts of current when needed and cancel out. I replaced it with a new fuse and now all my lights work! Atleast I have all new switches now!:D Thanks a lot everyone who helped out!
 
Yup, exactly what I was trying to point out in my last post above. I often use a variety of "test lamps" to PURPOSELY put a load on the test connection just to look for that. One good thing to "rig" is a heavy duty bulb of some kind. I like to use an old stop/ tail socket, because I can choose several configurations.

You can wire the two filaments in series (use both hot leads, leave the shell unconnected)

You can have a "lightweight" filament, (use shell and tail lamp lead)

You can have a "heavier" filament, (use shell and stop lamp lead)

You can have "real heavy" filament, (use shell and BOTH leads together)
 
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