lights went out?!?

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1970PAValiant

1970PAValiant

master of the break down
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so I was driving home about 30 mins ago and when I came to a stop my dash lights got brighter and went normal, few seconds later they were gone, so was my radio and along with my 4 ways, my side marker, and brake lights. my headlights and turn signals stil work fine. wanted to get input about what it might be before I go searching tommorow. First I'll start at the fuses and go from there. only thing it has done different than the past few months is it sat for 2 days before I started it. (I usually drive it every day but just laid off of work)
 
replace the ceramic box i had a simalar prob back in the day with my 68 i changed the ceramic box and everything worked again
 
Check the output voltage of the alternator first. If it is over 14.5 volts it will take out bulbs, battery and everything else. Don't ask me how I know this, LOL.
 
I dont know what car or equipment you have. The mechanical voltage regulators would do that. Blow every bulb in the car except the headlights.
A melt down at the bulkhead connector could do it too depending on which wires were melted together. Good luck
 
oh sorry redfish I have 1970 Valiant with a 318, mostly stock,aftermarket radio and electronic points. Replaced the Alt. about 4 months ago
 
First thing I'd try is get the car running on a good fast idle "low cruise" rig your voltmeter with clip leads to the battery so your hands are free, and confirm it is charging normally. Rig the meter so you can see it through the windshield, then go in and wiggle up under the dash, around the ammeter, wiggle the harness down near the bulkhead connector. If no change, go out in the engine bay, wiggle that side of the bulkhead connector, wiggle the harness near the regulator,

AND MAKE SURE the regulator is actually TIGHT CLEAN and grounded.

I've posted this previously, but there are two other problems that can cause overcharging

They are a poor regulator ground

and voltage drop in the harness feeding switched ignition to the regulator.

To check this, get the engine running, simulate "low to medium cruise" and check with all loads off first, then check again with lights, heater on

Stab a probe of your meter DIRECTLY onto the regulator case, the other DIRECTLY onto battery negative post. Zero volts is perfect, anything over .2V (two tenths) is too much, and indicates you need a ground jumper from the regulator case to the engine block.

Now check the hot side. rig a voltmeter connection at the regulator ign terminal (blue wire on the coil ballast is close enough) and the other probe directly onto the battery hot post. Once again, zero volts is perfect, anything over .2V is too much.

Your supply path is from the battery, cables, ---bulkhead connector -- to the ignition switch connector--through the switch--back out the switch connector--back out the bulkhead connector--to the regulator ign terminal connector.

ANY OF THESE POINTS can be loose/ corroded.

Another thing I always forget to mention --I'm so used to just doing it--is the regulator connector itself on the 70/ later stuff. Wiggle the connector in/ out several times to "wipe" the connector clean, and make sure it is till tight. Inspect it for corrosion inside.


Areas of suspect in this problem are regulator ground and connector, the bulkhead connector, and the failure of a splice inside the under dash harness known as the "number one splice."
 
well found the problem it was under the dash. apparently the connectors from the bulkhead into the fuseblock was loose. took them out and recrimped the end connections and put a lil di electric grease. Everything came back on, pulled at the wires to check if they'll go out and they stayed on. thank god it was a cheap fix :)
 
Well don't stop now. The bulkhead connectors in these things --specially now that they are all getting old--are becoming a huge problem. My advice--pull the entire connector group apart and carefully inspect them. Look for melted/ burned connections. Consider the much bandied about modifications, especially if you are running a larger alternator, electric fans, etc.
 
oh I did just in case, everything seemed stil ok, no melting just a bit of corrosion, I cleaned it and die electric greased it. what would be a good update for it?
 
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