"Liquid Sandpaper"

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SpeedThrills

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Back in the 80's, there was a product called, "Sand Free". It was a rattle can and it's intended use was for things that are hard to sand, like a door jamb. It wasn't intended for a high end resto. Just maybe a color change without all of the sanding labor. (I used it, but I don't remember what for.)

Is there still such a product? EDIT: I just searched and found this: SEM Sand Free 16 Oz Aerosol | Aircraft Spruce ® What is a good use for this, if any? I'm thinking of the trunk, door jambs and the engine compartment. I've sanded before, and I'll sand my Duster (that I'm prepping for paint), if this ain't worth it. Something tells me if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
 
Most of the body shops around here us a product called Bulldog. Expensive and super stinky. Use it for things like chrome or glass or like under a cab or something.
 
Most of the body shops around here us a product called Bulldog. Expensive and super stinky. Use it for things like chrome or glass or like under a cab or something.
I use Bulldog. Works well if ya have plastics or need to blend. Dying plastics or vinyl tops too.
Not cheap but Works. My wife had some plastic garden pots she wanted another color. I cleaned and shot with Bulldog then paint. Look like new 3-4 years later.
Wear real paint protection. A real respirator many skip it for small jobs , primers and prep.
 
I would just sand it...180 grit for primer and 400-600 grit for paint. The SEM TDS says its an adhesion promoter for plastics.
Whoops, I linked the wrong product. I meant to link to one for metal.
Most of the body shops around here us a product called Bulldog. Expensive and super stinky. Use it for things like chrome or glass or like under a cab or something.

I use Bulldog. Works well if ya have plastics or need to blend. Dying plastics or vinyl tops too.
Not cheap but Works. My wife had some plastic garden pots she wanted another color. I cleaned and shot with Bulldog then paint. Look like new 3-4 years later.
Wear real paint protection. A real respirator many skip it for small jobs , primers and prep.
Bulldog, okay. I probably will sand, though. But I keep getting ahead of myself. I'm not a painter, and I haven't found one yet for this job. I'll do what he prefers; or maybe wants to do it himself. I'll mention Bulldog.
 
Whoops, I linked the wrong product. I meant to link to one for metal.



Bulldog, okay. I probably will sand, though. But I keep getting ahead of myself. I'm not a painter, and I haven't found one yet for this job. I'll do what he prefers; or maybe wants to do it himself. I'll mention Bulldog.
Ya always sand but sometimes it difficult to get everywhere. Another product is Flash Bond XIM. Been around forever. Might have some compatibility issues with some products. Its like sprayable glue.
 

Whoops, I linked the wrong product. I meant to link to one for metal.



Bulldog, okay. I probably will sand, though. But I keep getting ahead of myself. I'm not a painter, and I haven't found one yet for this job. I'll do what he prefers; or maybe wants to do it himself. I'll mention Bulldog.
Nothing likes to stick to metal. Tooth and immediate application of a direct to metal product is what you want. Bulldog is not that product.
 
I’ll keep all of this info in mind. Thanks.
And maybe, if whomever the painter is, is busy, I’ll have plenty of time to prep it. (if that’s OK with him.)
I’m going to start asking around about a painter next week. We’re going to buy our Christmas tree on Monday. The guy we buy from has some pretty nice cars. I’m going to start by asking him where he gets his paint work.
And, my neighbor down the street has a nice 67 GTO. I’ll talk to him also. We live in a resort area, but there are possibilities for connections…
 
Degreasing is also a big part of it! Wax and grease remover or similar cleaner.
Yes, it's clean. Just have to be sure the final wax and grease remover application is with a product approved by the painter. Of course, that's if I do anything. The painter gets the final say. I don't want to hear that the stuff I used made the paint lift.

I hope to be able to make a decision on the painter soon. I've done as much prep as I can. Just waiting for t-day weekend to be over, then I start shopping for the biggest Christmas present I've ever had!
 
This has been an excellent and informative thread. Thanks to everyone who posted. I usually use small pieces of adhesive back dry sandpaper that I can put on my fingertips and get in small places. Or for finer work, I fold over wet sandpaper for smaller areas For really weird areas, I use scotch brite pads. But I am definitely going to try some of the products you guys talked about. Thanks.
 
This has been an excellent and informative thread. Thanks to everyone who posted. I usually use small pieces of adhesive back dry sandpaper that I can put on my fingertips and get in small places. Or for finer work, I fold over wet sandpaper for smaller areas For really weird areas, I use scotch brite pads. But I am definitely going to try some of the products you guys talked about. Thanks.
Thanks for that. I always hope what I post helps others down the road. God knows, I get plenty of help here on FABO. :)
 
Yes, it's clean. Just have to be sure the final wax and grease remover application is with a product approved by the painter. Of course, that's if I do anything. The painter gets the final say. I don't want to hear that the stuff I used made the paint lift.

I hope to be able to make a decision on the painter soon. I've done as much prep as I can. Just waiting for t-day weekend to be over, then I start shopping for the biggest Christmas present I've ever had!
Any painter who knows what they are doing will go over the car and look for issues before scuffing questionable areas and cleaning. I don't know what quality you are going for but it would be worthwhile to let them prime and block the car too.
 
There was a product called Jam-it years back. I used it . I didn't work. Over some time the jams peeled anyway. Nothing works better then labor.

Used it in a collision shop back in the day but it kinda faded out after 3M came up with the Scotch-brite. A scuff pad made it almost as easy as wiping it down.
 
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