Load Leveling Coil Over Shocks

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Kyle Buffington

Kyle Buffington

Buff6116
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I have read a few of the articles on here about using the Monroe 58496 coil over shock to help with clapped out rear leaf springs. I know this is just putting lipstick on a pig but it is an avenue that would work best for me till I can get a garage built and do more intensive work to the rear suspension on my 67' Valiant. SO my question is what kind of spring rate do you all think these would be comparable to (Yes I know they are a variable rate but looking for a rough idea)? The issue is that with the wheels and tires that are on the car they rub on the wheel wells. A couple owners back they opened up the wheel openings to try and get more clearance and the last owner put on air shocks that were too tall and large in diameter so they would bottom out the shock hard if there is no air in them and than one one rubbed a hole in it so I am looking for something to keep the fenders and the tire from tearing each other apart for the summer.
 
Variable rate ? I believe all the Monroe rear coilovers I have run were all 50/50 shocks.
 
Coil over shocks will kill the stock upper mount over time.

A band-aid the will damage the car is not a good approach.

IMO, springs hold the car up and that is what should be replaced.
 
The Monroe Sensatrac shocks lift the rear end close to an inch.
Then again, just because some PO couldn't figure out the concept of proper wheel backspacing doesn't mean it should stay that way and you have to look for crutchy solutions to bypass the problem itself. But I think you know that already.
For a temp solution the Monroe's might work fine, as an increase in springrate is always welcome on these old cars.
 
I would sooner bolt a pair of half leaf / helper springs onto the OEM leaf springs. I actually did this to our first 67 B'cuda back in early 80s. Half leafs came from JC Whitney. packaged with long U bolts and jamb nuts for adjusting where one spring sagged more than other. I drawed them down tight, cut and killed the ends of those U nuts with a torch and hammer. Pretty well hidden and never going to loosen. Rear went up about an inch. A short time later,, passengers in back seat, trunk full of luggage, brothers boat on the bumper hitch, 660 mile round trip, no problem.
So new or re arched leaf springs is the optimal solution. Vehicle weight loaded on shock mounts is not the best "cheap fix".
 
Just took them off my Duster. Rode rougher than hell, I swear the back end felt like it went airborne when I hit a good bump.
 
I'm with Joe, it sound like the wrong offset and/or tire size. What do you have for a wheel and tire combo?
 
The other issue with just increasing the rear spring rate is it makes it more likely to fishtail. You won't notice it normally. Only on something like a wet downhill turn. Then its too late. So if you do it, really really take it easy in the turns and downhill situations.
 
I agree this is a terrible fix and comes with a lot of draw backs. I travel for work and am only home a few weeks a summer so I want to get it so it is running well and driving so I can put a 100-200 miles on it. I am looking at putting up a garage/shop this summer/fall so I can go through the suspension and other items to get them up to snuff in the winter months. Right now I just want to see how much this might raise the rear end and add stiffness. This sounds like an inch. I want to get rid of the air shocks that are there as they are too tall, bottom out, and will jar the teeth. I will also be looking into a different wheel and tire combo as the 275-60-15's are bit large for it. Hopefully this winter it will get all new suspension... at least torsion bars(the factory slant 6 bars are tired and a bit over whelmed with the 360 in there) and rear leaf springs if not the whole 9 yards.

The end goal is to lower it, make it handle and possibly add some minor fender flairs to help with the tire clearance/hide the cut wheel wells. Once that is done rebuild the 360 to get about 400 hp. She is not the prettiest and has some Jerry Rigging done to it so I am trying to sort it out and get to enjoy it along the way. Good news is the shifter linkage is now held in place with the proper spacers and pin rather than zip ties...
 
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