Long valves on W2's with .600 lift?

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So I ordered the cam last night from Jones.

I'm going to have to put off any thought of going to the 1.6 rockers and, perhaps, the lightweight valves.

We are doing a minor kitchen redo right now on a tight budget and now I find a leaky 100 year old drain pipe that has damaged a bedroom wall. That repair ( pipe and drywall) is going to take $$$ out of my engine project. Plus I lost a week of work do to the shutdown at Miller Brewing in Milwaukee due to that shooting two weeks ago... I haul beer out of that brewery.

I ordered my Superformance gaskets plus the Cometic head gaskets.

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So I ordered the cam last night from Jones.

I'm going to have to put off any thought of going to the 1.6 rockers and, perhaps, the lightweight valves.

We are doing a minor kitchen redo right now on a tight budget and now I find a leaky 100 year old drain pipe that has damaged a bedroom wall. That repair ( pipe and drywall) is going to take $$$ out of my engine project. Plus I lost a week of work do to the shutdown at Miller Brewing in Milwaukee due to that shooting two weeks ago... I haul beer out of that brewery.

I ordered my Superformance gaskets plus the Cometic head gaskets.


That's sucks about the pipe. That's the kind of thing you find when doing remodeling that just stomps the budget.

The good news you bought exellent gaskets. If you've never used either brand before, you will be impressed with both of them. Great stuff and worth every last penny.
 
That's sucks about the pipe. That's the kind of thing you find when doing remodeling that just stomps the budget.

The good news you bought exellent gaskets. If you've never used either brand before, you will be impressed with both of them. Great stuff and worth every last penny.
Mark was very nice on the phone... good guy. I like the person to person service.

Summit had the Cometic's.... never spent that much on a head gasket before but I got a slightly thinner gasket (.027) and one that is the same as my bore (4.040).... should have just a little more squeeze.
 
Here's the Outlaws at Shawano last year... the track is banked around 12 degrees up top but pretty flat on the bottom. These guys are a few notches about what I bring to the table... maybe a dozen notches...



Going back to 1996 look for the black #5 car driven by MJ McBride. Third heat race around 12:30... That car is sitting in my shop. Bought it out of a field about 4 years ago. Last raced in 2000-ish. McBride is a NE Wisconsin racing legend having won 14 track championships and many big money races. He raced for 40 years at Shawano and NEVER MISSED A SATURDAY NIGHT in all those years, Amazing.

 
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mine's 1916 you're older than i am-house that is
that 15 spring would work at .600 lift 385lbs
the 16 also works at 1.85 130/375 if u have to stick a spring locator in
still like the 1220x
if that is what lunati has they are $10
if knock off's i'd pass
 
Mike writes on YB
We take the Johnson lifters, and EDM a .024" oil hole in the face of the lifter. We've been doing that for about 30 years, and in circle track, we see cam life about triple over std lifters.

For break-in we recommend lowering the spring pressure to below 300# at max lift, and running for 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm, using PennGrade 1 break-in oil.

I talked to them at the PRI show, and I was assured the formula hasn't changed.
We have had zero issues, with their oils.
If they changed it, we would have seen lab test results, showing the change.
different poster
There was a thread about Brad Penn versus Penn Grade oil. I have been using Brad Penn and sold it for many years. I called Brad Penn and talked to an engineer when the buy out by DA oil was going on as there was a time you could not get any Brad Penn. He said it was because Penn Rite was changing the bottling line, packaging, and was not set up yet in Lebanon Indiana where DA home office is.. He assured me DA was continuing to buy the oil stock from the Bradford Pennsylvania refinery He also said his wife was involved in the formulation of the oil and it had not changed since the change/ improvement that was made when it was renamed from Kendall GT1.

In contrast later I saw a post on here that DA had not purchased any oil stock from Bradford Pennsylvania for over a year. I have both Brad Penn and Penn Rite 20-50 oil here and the color and feel is the same, if that means anything. Both say "The original green oil" and "very high Zinc, ETC content" But the Penn Rite does not say made from Pennsylvania crude oil like the Brad Penn does.

Also I see Driven Oil has come out with semi synthetic/ Pennsylvania crude oil based line. Sounds like the old Brad Penn?

Any updates on the Penn Rite.
mike answers
You can read all about PennGrade1 oil, right here.
https://penngrade1.com/wp-content/uploads/DA-Lube_White-Paper_FINAL_FINAL.pdf
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So I got some of my new engine parts...
First I find I ordered head gaskets for a Magnum motor.... They are going back to Summit.

The Superformance gaskets are very nice.

Got the hardware kit, too plus a carb kit. Plusa couple shock mounts for the chassis.

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So sorry, remind what the target compression ratio is again.
 
We were at 13.5 according to the original 1993 build sheet at the engine shop. That was with a 1008 gasket @ .039 thickness and a 4.140 bore on those gaskets iirc.

I will now use a .027 Cometic with a 4.040 bore which will kick it up a bit along with a skim cut on the decks after the one new sleeve is installed.

These slugs are a thing of beauty. Honestly not what I ordered but they will work fine. Maybe better than what I wanted so perhaps they will be a Godsend for my build. I won't say much more just that I was shocked when I opened the box.
 
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I'm just glad I took an extra $500.00 out of my 401k to buy the pricier stuff for my project... these things were priced like I bought them at Tiffany’s!
 
And now today....more gifts from who knows who. I disavow any knowledge of their origin...
Front hub.
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Two used steering racks that are faster than the two I have now.

A pair of magnesium bells for my quick change. The center section I have is a Frankland magnesium but the bells were aluminum from Winters. They are interchangable but I prefer to have these parts all match
I sold the aluminum bells and added $50.00 to get these. Good deal.

These are the boxes that came today... I half expected them to be booby trapped!
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Ok...so I got one axle dropped into the sidebell but I screwed up the second one and I didn't have enough heat in the bell and the axle stuck part way in the bell.

Turned out to be a Godsend as I dropped the left side axle in the right side bell!!! Oops!

So now I have to heat the bell/axle that is assembled and press the tube out of the bell. Same with the one thats only partially installed. Then redo it.

You have to heat the bell and cool the axle then drop the tube into the bell. I used our kitchen oven to heat the bell to 200F... not hot enough. 350F did the trick. I soaked the tubes in a bucket of ice water before I did the procedure.


I think I got distracted after the first heated bell was turned over and the carrier bearing race fell out of the bell from the bell expanding. I reacted by picking up the race with my bare left hand. HOT! The boss (wife) was watching this whole deal and I didn't want that bearing race in the way so I grabbed it.

Cold water kept the burn on my fingers to a mnimum.
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axle??
maybe we should use starboard and port and a dab of red and green paint
eye doctor has nurse put a little sticker above mom's eye that get macular shot then he checks it
 
Stopped by my engine's shop todsy. I bought a few wheel bearings, a couple spindle nuts that I need plus some Bert Blue Magic synthetic transmission fluid for the race car transmission and a couple other small things.

I decided to do a short fill in the water jackets to help stabilized the cylinders. Baxter will do it for me... they stock Hardblock brand and use it on quite a few engines. I also talked with them about the piston rings I got along with the pistons from Ractec. They sent along a set of Hastings Performance rings which, I believe, are the ductile moly top ring and the Napier second ring. The shop foreman says they also use that ring and it's been a good performer for them...so Hastings it is.
 
I need +200 which is generally 5.140 depending on who makes them. Those stock sizes are all over the place.

I know a guy who has an R3 blocked Brodix headed engine that uses 5.140 on the intake and 5.160 on exhaust. I have 5.165 exhaust available from Manley. I'll do a mock-up to see if the longer exhaust will work. Or I can shorten the stem.

I'll copy that build sheet....has some interesting specs in the build.
 
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