long wheel studs for factory discs

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drockduster

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Does anyone know where to get long wheel studs for Kelsey Hayes disc I've got some old centerlines that take shank style lugs.
 
allright junior, it took some searching BUT i found a few options
i figured since you are running K/H brakes, you are small bolt pattern, and therefore you are 7/16-20 lugs, correct?

here are your options, what you need to do is figure out what knurl you need in order for them to fit tight in your spindle

JEGS Performance Products 65100: Press-In Wheel Studs 7/16"-20 Thread x 2-7/8" Long x .480" Knurl | JEGS

Moroso 46160: 7/16"-20 x 2-7/8" Press-In Studs .560" knurl | JEGS

JEGS Performance Products 65101: Press-In Wheel Studs 7/16"-20 Thread x 2-7/8" Long x .570" Knurl | JEGS
 
IMG_3568.JPG
allright junior, it took some searching BUT i found a few options
i figured since you are running K/H brakes, you are small bolt pattern, and therefore you are 7/16-20 lugs, correct?

here are your options, what you need to do is figure out what knurl you need in order for them to fit tight in your spindle

JEGS Performance Products 65100: Press-In Wheel Studs 7/16"-20 Thread x 2-7/8" Long x .480" Knurl | JEGS

Moroso 46160: 7/16"-20 x 2-7/8" Press-In Studs .560" knurl | JEGS

JEGS Performance Products 65101: Press-In Wheel Studs 7/16"-20 Thread x 2-7/8" Long x .570" Knurl | JEGS

I know I can get those but I'm not sure if they will work the stock has a long shoulder then knurling then more shoulder see pic
 
Well hemi71x has just read this thread, and has a bit of time to kill this morning, before leaving for my medical appointment at the Mather VA.
In my experience in rebuilding these Kelsey Hayes 4 piston caliper, disc brake systems , on the A body line of cars, i once purchased a set up to rebuild, from a guy that raced at the track here in Sacramento.
I don't think your gonna find long whell studs 7/16 inch diameter thread size for those KH disc brakes anymore in this day and age.
Whats available works for Drum brakes and not discs.
Here's what i once did for long wheel studs, on the KH brakes.
I had my machine shop friend just drill the rotor and hub to a larger diameter to accept wheel studs from the 70 71 72 B & E body line of cars, with disc brakes.
The studs are then 1/2 inch diameter, but so what. You buy 1/2 inch lug nuts, to suit your application, and wheels.
Then long studs are pretty much findable for the 70 71 72 disc brake B & E body line of cars.

Well anyway, that's my 2 cents worth of reply to your posting.
Good luck.
Jim V.
hemi71x
 
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Well hemi71x has just read this thread, and has a bit of time to kill this morning, before leaving for my medical appointment at the Mather VA.
In my experience in rebuilding these Kelsey Hayes 4 piston caliper, disc brake systems , on the A body line of cars, i once purchased a set up to rebuild, from a guy that raced at the track here in Sacramento.
I don't think your gonna find long whell studs 7/16 inch diameter thread size for those KH disc brakes anymore in this day and age.
Whats available works for Drum brakes and not discs.
Here's what i once did for long wheel studs, on the KH brakes.
I had my machine shop friend just drill the rotor and hub to a larger diameter to accept wheel studs from the 70 71 72 B & E body line of cars, with disc brakes.
The studs are then 1/2 inch diameter, but so what. You buy 1/2 inch lug nuts, to suit your application, and wheels.
Then long studs are pretty much findable for the 70 71 72 disc brake B & E body line of cars.

Well anyway, that's my 2 cents worth of reply to your posting.
Good luck.
Jim V.
hemi71x
Thank you for the input I think that's what I'll do. Also thank you for your service to our country
 
I just replaced my front wheel K/H wheel studs with a 1/2" version. My stock 7/16 knurl measured .560 with about a .760 knurl length. I replaced with ARP 100-7706. 1/2" ...568 knurl.....710 knurl length. Not perfect for length, but pressed in fine. Car isn't running yet so not tried and true.
 
You don't need long wheel studs, you need deeper lug nuts. Those wheels work with stock lugs with the correct lug nut. The lug nuts should be inserted in & be about 1/8" to 1/4" from the backside of the wheel.

Should be 1 3/8" like these.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/cll-l5122
 
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You don't need long wheel studs, you need deeper lug nuts. Those wheels work with stock lugs with the correct lug nut. The lug nuts should be inserted in & be about 1/8" to 1/4" from the backside of the wheel.

Should be 1 3/8" like these.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/cll-l5122
He explained it first time he posted the question (and I thought the same thing you though)

The wheel studs need to go past the end of lug nut to pass tech at the track I have open end lug nuts
 
He explained it first time he posted the question (and I thought the same thing you though)

I see, missed that part.

I have had long studs on the deep centerline type lug nuts & you want to keep a lot of antisieze on those because there is a lot of surface area of threads. I bolted them up when new one fall & it sat in the garage all winter then 6 months later it was a bear to get them to come loose.
 
Aussie Mopars have them 7/16-20 for KH. Will get a link posted later while I eat.
 
I don't think your gonna find long whell studs 7/16 inch diameter thread size for those KH disc brakes anymore in this day and age.
Whats available works for Drum brakes and not discs.
Here's what i once did for long wheel studs, on the KH brakes.
I had my machine shop friend just drill the rotor and hub to a larger diameter to accept wheel studs from the 70 71 72 B & E body line of cars, with disc brakes.
The studs are then 1/2 inch diameter, but so what. You buy 1/2 inch lug nuts, to suit your application, and wheels.
Then long studs are pretty much findable for the 70 71 72 disc brake B & E body line of cars.

Well anyway, that's my 2 cents worth of reply to your posting.
Good luck.
Jim V.
hemi71x
[/QUOTE]

For my 70 Duster with KH front disc w/ 8 3/4" rear end.
I did the same. Moser axle drilled my KH to the larger bolt pattern and for 1/2" threaded studs.
Got rid of the smaller right and left studs.

You can get redrilled rear axles also. To use stock rear brakes. IIRR
So you have to redrill your drums too.

I bought new axles with the BBPattern for the rear, the flange plate is bigger, but if you do it this way, you have to change out the rear brakes to a larger size, and to larger drums with the correct pattern.
If I remember right.
So I just went with summit disc in the rear, with green bearings which are required.

I think, The axles they have listed are the racing axles,
They make a cheaper one, may have to ask, which is what I bought.
I also bought their threaded studs and bearings. They installed the bearings, free install, and threaded studs, and I bought it through Summit, so no shipping charge.
Something to think about.
There are a bunch more rims to choose from, with 4 1/2" bolt pattern.
Hope this helps.
Moser Engineering - A-Body Axles - MOPAR Car Axles - MOPAR AXLES - Axles - Stock Application
 
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Dorman makes almost every size of studs -- I went on their website and just looked through all the 7/16 options.
 

Pentastar Parts & Restorations went into receivership (bankruptcy) in September.

Hemi Performance (also of Australia) offers "overlength 7/16" wheel studs". I ordered and received a set of 10 wheel studs from them, and in direct comparison to original KH front disc brake studs, they are almost identical, differing only in the overall length of the shoulder, but the shoulder is still plenty long to securely engage the hub. Delivery took less that a week and cost just over $90.

hemiperformance.com.au

IMG_3516.JPG
 
My rears were MORSO off the shelf in the 80’s. Still on the car and look brand new.
 
Yes. A member here installed the Aussie wheel studs. The shoulder is a little short but I don't recall any modifications needed. Search in Brakes subforum and you should find the thread.

For the rear wheels I'm using Moroso 7/16 long studs I had machinist grind down and reknurl.
Oh. This thread's like a year old...well hope its useful to someone lol
 
Does anyone know where to get long wheel studs for Kelsey Hayes disc I've got some old centerlines that take shank style lugs.
15 years ago I switched my 70 Duster from aluminum slots to Convo pros and was told that I needed longer studs because the stock ones did not come through the open lugs by our local track tech inspector. There was nothing available anywhere so I removed a stud and took it to a machine shop that had the tooling to copy the shank with a 3 inch threaded stud.I had 15 made for 120 dollars 10 plus spares.

20181024_185101.jpg


20181024_185028.jpg
 
You don't need long wheel studs, you need deeper lug nuts. Those wheels work with stock lugs with the correct lug nut. The lug nuts should be inserted in & be about 1/8" to 1/4" from the backside of the wheel.

Should be 1 3/8" like these.

Center Line Wheels Lug Nuts L5122

Them's the lugnuts i used(only 1/2") and then took a die grinder with a cut of wheel to the cap end of the nut. Long Wheel Stud stick thru and tech inspector happy.
 
Hey FABO, I know I am resurrecting an old post from a few years ago but, I just reached the crossroad of needing longer studs for my KH calipers. I’ve read through a number of posts on this topic and looked up the companies that were originally suggested. I’m curious if anyone has recently stumbled on another source that may be a better fit for this application before I drill my rotors for 1/2” studs?
 
I don’t have my rule book here with me, but unless the rules have changed most guys don’t need those worthless long PITA studs.

The rule book used to say that “one times the diameter of the stud must go into the hex portion of the lug nut” and that’s all it said. My have changed, but I doubt it because that’s how most fasteners work.

That means if you are using a 1/2 inch stud, only a 1/2 inch of the stud needs to be into the hex portion of the lug nut. That’s it. The track tech dude will argue, so have your rule book handy. Because making the stud any longer has ZERO affect on strength of the fastener or bolt.

If said tech dude snivels, either run open ended lugs or pull off one lug to show him, while reading the rule out of the rule book to him.

He won’t be your buddy any more, but most likely he never was. And he should know the rule book.
 
Interesting. I did look up the rule and it appears to still require all studs to protrude the nut. Is there a more recent release on this rule?
Regardless of the rule, I do need to replace the studs. Just so this post doesn't turn into an NHRA rule post and stays a stud replacement topic :)


SECTION 21: GENERAL REGULATIONS, TIRES AND WHEELS:5 5:2 WHEELS (Page 21) (4/24/2019)
Hubcaps must be removed for inspectors, who will check for loose lugs, cracked wheels, worn or oversize lug holes, and condition of spindles, axle nuts, cotter pins, etc. Snap-on hubcaps are prohibited on any class car. The use of “spinner” style wheels or any wheel design that incorporates movable pieces while vehicle is in motion or stationary are prohibited.


Each car in competition must be equipped with automotive-type wheels with a minimum 12 inches of diameter unless Class Requirements stipulate otherwise. Motorcycle wheels or lightweight automotive wire wheels must be equipped with .100- inch minimum diameter steel spokes, properly cross-laced to provide maximum strength. All spoke holes in rim and hub must be laced. Omissions to lighten wheels prohibited. The thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolts to wheel hubs, must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud/bolt. Length of the stud/bolt does not determine permissibility. (Example: A 7/16-inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a minimum of 7/16-inch.)
 
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