Looking at buying a 1968 Dart with 440

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daves66valiant

68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100
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Hey guys,
I'm headed out today to look at a 1968 Dart (my favorite year dart) It has a rebuilt (5 years ago) never run before 440. I don't know the specs on the 440 yet but he has most of the paperwork and receipts. He says the body is fairly straight and has a couple of rust spots. Of course I'll know more when I see it. It's a California original car so the rust can't be too bad I hope. It comes with a 8 3/4 3.91 rear SBP already installed. Rebuildable 727. NO idea on the trim and interior. He says it is pretty complete. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed. I may have a BIG BLOCK DART if things look reasonable.

I will post a bunch of pictures and get you guys' opinions on possible project #2.
I'll need help as far as price to offer. Current price is $3500. I think I could work that down a bit since the car is not running, no title just bill of sale, engine is on a stand.
 
Oh yes!!! Good luck Dave, is the Dart a factory big block car ,GTS? Here`s my `68 as I plug away on the body work. Man I hate body work, no wonder it`s so expensive!

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Good luck Dave ,but a word of advice its hard to do two projects at once.I know from experience and things not finished.
 
Here is what I found.....a 68 Dart 270 2 dr hard top. Originally /6 car column shift. The car looks like it spend all it's life near the ocean in Santa Barbara or Ventura county. So there are some rust issues. It can all be repaired but I'm not sure I can tackle it at this time. You know 2 projects and all :sad11:

The GOOD:

Bench seats and headliner are in very good condition. Dash pad is cracked of course. Door panels are good. Newer carpet. Gold color. All the glass is good.
The 8 3/4 has the 489 case with 3.91 sure-grip SBP. 727 tranny that could be rebuilt or used as a core. Brand new 3500 stall converter in the box. 440 engine was rebuilt in 1997. 292 comp cam. New valve train, spring, etc. on engine. Larger Valve. Adjustable rockers. Don't know about the pistons or compression but he had the engine blueprint cards. New Milodon pan, edelbrock torker II 440 intake, new water pump, timing cover, new valcover, full gasket kit for engine R&R. I did not see a flywheel or the bellhousing. Stuff was everywhere. The engine has not been fired up since rebuild and everything is very clean in the engine. Has the disc brake spindles, calipers and rotors. NO upper control arms. Grill needs some attention but is in pretty good shape. The bezels are nice. Bumpers are fairly straight. The trunk was almost perfect except for 2 spots where water collected near the shock bolts. The doors, hood and deck lid looked pretty good. The floor pans, trunk extension and frame rails were solid. Engine looks fairly clean

The BAD:

For a California car is has seen better days. Was told it sat out in a lemon grove for years. The last time it was registered was in 1988. Mother nature did a number in the C-pillars lots of bubbly stuff. I could not tell but I'm sure the quarters will need to be replaced too since they had some bondo and bubbly stuff. Front fenders look like they have some issues potentially. I saw some rust in the lower sections by the wheels. The driver's side door sticker had rusted out and had a manky repair job.

This car would definitely make a good project for somebody with a mind to have a big block in an original /6 car. Looks like a solid base to work with but the rust on the C-pillars worries me. I was thinking of making it a bracket/strip/street car with all fiberglass and roll cage. The drivetrain is practically all there and the body work can be done. I am thinking of holding off on this car until I find something better or more worthwhile. HEY JOHN you tired of that GTS....you can send it me and I'll do the body work....:D

The guy wants $3500. I honestly would not offer more than $2500 but am thinking about calling the guy and saying $2000 is the best I can do considering all the work it would take just to get it in driving shape.

***The 68 Dart is my favorite year. What do you guys think? Is this car worth getting as a future project? I probably will not be taking it to the level I have taken my Valiant though. It has alot of the parts already for a BBD. Would I be offering too little or too much? This guy looks like he needs to get rid of the car and his wife is tired of seeing it in the backyard.***


PICTURES

The bad stuff
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The Good Stuff
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surface rust. zero in the spare tire well
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68 dart.jpg


68 dart1.jpg
 
That actually doesnt seem to bad to me,from your descriptions I thought it would be alot worse-but then we get alot more rain up here!.I know you have a project going but it would be hard to pass that up if it could be had for 2,500.
 
That car would be considered very nice here on the East Coast! I find the best way to buy something well below the asking price is to show up with cash (C-notes) in hand and make your offer. It`s hard for someone to see all the money and say good-bye to it. That car would make a killer sleeper or a bad *** ride either way you go. Air conditioned too ,yeah! What K-member is with the car, motor mounts, exhaust, radiator, driveshaft? You could still spend a bundle on it. I`d guess the guy has $3500.00 in it for sure, so he`ll take a hit if he sells it for any less. I`d say go for it if you have the money, a place to store it, and the patience to leave it be until your Valiant`s done.
 
I pretty much have to agree with what the last 2 people said. When I read your description I expected to see a LOT worse than what I saw in the pictures. Most of the rust looked like it would be an easy fix compared to what a lot of guys on this site have had to deal with. Show up with the cash in hand. From past experinece when I needed money, I know how hard it can be to turn it down. Offer $2000. You can always be "talked up" to $2500 if necessary. You probably couldn't get an engine like that for the same money, & you're getting a 489 chunk 3.91 8 3/4, a decent interior, & you know you'd love driving that thing with a big block. :D You're young, right? You've got plenty of years ahead of you for another project!
 
The motor alone is worth 3500. It's a steel crank motor with a nice soild lift can & rebuilt heads with bigger valves. You can't hardly build the motor for that. & you'd get a pretty solid car fromt what I see with it also. I'b buy it I you are able to before it ends up selling on ebay for 8000
 
I look at the pictures more, & it's a steal at 3500 & anyting less is icing on the cake. It's a manual steering car, has 8 3/4 with 391, I see 3 speed wipers. The rust in the pictures is all normal & looks like you could eat out of the trunk. If you really want a 68, you'd be foolish in my opinion to pass this one up for the price. IF you had to get rid of it you could sell it for more than 3500
 
I'll keep all this in mind as I am seriously thinking about it. With all the experience I gained from working on the valiant I bet I could get that thing running and looking real nice. A big block would be kick ***. I would have to store it for a while. I really want to enjoy the convertible for a while before starting this project.

I would do all the bodywork and paint myself this time around. LOL don't ask why. Check this out...I already have the AAR fiberglass Hemi Dart Hood Scoop. Can you say Hemi/Wedge Dart clone. Primer would be easy for me to paint :D

I will keep you guys updated. If I decide not to get it I will take a donation finder's fee :wink:
 
I look at the pictures more, & it's a steal at 3500 & anyting less is icing on the cake. It's a manual steering car, has 8 3/4 with 391, I see 3 speed wipers. The rust in the pictures is all normal & looks like you could eat out of the trunk. If you really want a 68, you'd be foolish in my opinion to pass this one up for the price. IF you had to get rid of it you could sell it for more than 3500

Now you are really getting me thinking. I may call my buddy and see if he can bring down the trailer. And I will have the $ 2500 cash in hand. I'll decide tomorrow.
 
just called the guy back. i think i might have him on the fence for $2500 cash tomorrow. will know his answer in the morning. I guess I could get talked up to $3000 max. We shall see how it goes. Toes crossed.
 
The more I look at the pictures and read the description the more I like it too. Are those Crane rockers on there? A decent torque converter will cost a pretty penny too. There`s a lot of good money there, I think you can do well on this deal. Keep us posted and good luck!
 
hell for that price id buy it for the motor alone if the guy is telling you the truth. Plus that is a good looking car i love 68s to they are my favorite as well and i have two already both slant 6 drivers and i paid 1500 for one of them and i got a hell of a deal at that i say go for it. Good Luck Justin
 
UPDATE

Got it for $3000!!!!!!! Added bonus 2 engine hoists and the engine stand. Going to get a tow dolly this afternoon and the cash.

Hopefully this will be a good project and I won't be disappointed once I tear into the body rust. I'll have photos coming tonight.


I'll be surfing for dart parts at the Fall Fling Saturday.
:wav::wav::wav:
 
Dave, great news! I think that is a pretty damn good deal! A friend up in the SF Bay Area is parting out a '68 4-door. If you need anything off of it, let me know and I will pass on his contact info to you. We are driving down early Saturday morning (leaving at 2-3am) and perhaps he can bring something you need but I will let you two discuss it. Again, congratulations on the new project!
 
Dave,

When I first saw the car I thought 1500 max. Seeing pics and stuff on the engine, I would have offered 2K and let him come down to a number he was OK with. I saw that car the same place you did. You know what can be found around here. That car isn't rusty by east coast standards, but, us spoiled westies look at that and cringe.... :wink: All that stuff is an easy fix and pretty normal rust areas. I just took some original panel stuff that could have patched the trunk to da scrapper... :eek:ops:

Back east guys all talk about that's worth X here... and then when it comes time move, nobody wants to get the car to them, even if the total cost plus shipping is 1K less than what they say. BTDT with more than one east coaster. No offense guys, but cars out here that are rust free are plentiful and don't garner the $$$ you all think they do. Cars are worth what the local market will bear, it's not a national market. Ex. I just bought a 71 Dart Swinger originally 318/904, no eng/trans, great trim, perfect grille, SBP 8 3/4 with SG, interior nice but needs dashpad, no rust anywhere one small crease in pass lower rear 1/4 and hood has a bend in front edge... $300. The guy had it for sale for 3 months with no takers!!!

You're going to have to pull the engine down to inspect the bores beings your by the coast and salt air can be killers on fresh bores.

Even at 2500, that's not bad if it's something you really desire. I have a rot box that I paid WAY too much for, but, really wanted the particular car. I'll always pay a bit more for something I really want and $500 isn't a deal breaker in most cases.

Boomer!!!

Rob
 
UPDATE

Got it for $3000!!!!!!! Added bonus 2 engine hoists and the engine stand. Going to get a tow dolly this afternoon and the cash.

Hopefully this will be a good project and I won't be disappointed once I tear into the body rust. I'll have photos coming tonight.


I'll be surfing for dart parts at the Fall Fling Saturday.
:wav::wav::wav:

Congratulations Dave, but don`t get too sidetracked, we`ve all waited too long to see the Valiant through to fruition. :eek:ccasion:
 
If you need a door striker panel, let me know. I have one off a 72 Duster I cut up a while back.

Make a list of what you need for metal patches. I'll see what I can do to find some scrap around here. :D
 
Go her home this afternoon. I am very excited but I also know that there is some serious work to be done on the c-pillars and lower quarters. Hopefully this work will not be too extensive.

Here is what I uncovered tonight. What do you guys think? Major or minor?

not all the way through the metal here and some think bondo
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Holes C-pillar area

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Hood with a spot or two. Thinking a fiberglass would be the way to go on the front fenders and hood.


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I think you did okay Dave. The rust on the C-pillars is odd, it seems to be right where the lead joint is? None of it looks too bad though, it should be a relatively easy fix barring that red paint isn`t covering up something. Dun da dun da!
 
not exactly on the cheap side but you could also go with a power bulge gts hood. They look nice too but the fiberglass would probably be much cheaper. Good Luck Justin
 
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