Looking at car hauler/trailer, need some dimensions, please.

[Demonracer]

My trailer only had brakes on one axle when I purchased it new. I picked up another complete set at a swap meet as a spare set and am thinking about putting them on the other axle, just because. I normally only haul my Demon which only weighs 2500#, but when I hauled a friends Dakota pickup I noticed the brakes weren't quite as sufficient.

 

[ProjectBazza]

Putting aftermarket wheels on a trailer can be a bit dicey, in my experience I make sure of the wheel weight rating. I've used mostly steel wheels instead of aluminum because of the side stresses put on the wheels when turning the trailer.

I had 2-1/2 hours of windshield time to think about those wheels as I was driving home, but I hadn't considered side stresses. I'm sure they worked just fine for the PO, who used it strictly for his open wheel car, but I may be using this for things a bit heavier....

(Hmmmm. I wonder what I can get for those Lincoln wheels on CL? )

 

[ProjectBazza]

My trailer only had brakes on one axle when I purchased it new. I picked up another complete set at a swap meet as a spare set and am thinking about putting them on the other axle, just because. I normally only haul my Demon which only weighs 2500#, but when I hauled a friends Dakota pickup I noticed the brakes weren't quite as sufficient.

Considering that you noticed the difference in braking hauling "only" (my term) a Dakota, and that I want to be able to do this at will:

Sounds like I had better make sure both axles have brakes!

Learn something new here every day! Thanks!

 

[ProjectBazza]

Dove tail and 6 foot slide out ramps. Deck the same width as the outside of the fenders front and rear so you can work on the car on the trailer. The trailer can also haul a dual wheel truck. Fenders lift off to open doors on low car. Fiberglass shield on front to protect what you are hauling. The trailer deck is 26 foot. We copied it from the red one next to it Just made the deck longer and wider.

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I like those d-rings on the outside of the frame. On the trailer I just bought yesterday the d-rings are welded to the deck, as the PO used wheel straps to hold his open wheel racer down. But for all of my uses, I'd have to run over them when loading a vehicle, and while I'm sure I could do that w/o a problem, it just doesn't seem right to me for some reason, so I'll cut them off and either move them, or replace them with new.

Nice looking trailer, by the way!

 

[Demonracer]

I added extra tie down points on my trailer so my straps are as short as possible. I had an experience with using long straps because I had no other option at the time. I was stopping every so often to tighten them because the stretched (also cheap straps). I bought Kevlar sleeved axle straps, as well as straps with Kevlar woven into them.

 

[ProjectBazza]

I added extra tie down points on my trailer so my straps are as short as possible. I had an experience with using long straps because I had no other option at the time. I was stopping every so often to tighten them because the stretched (also cheap straps). I bought Kevlar sleeved axle straps, as well as straps with Kevlar woven into them.

More good advice!

Right now all I have are 4 or 5 ratchet straps that look something like this (below). The PO kept his wheel tie downs and just threw these in with the deal. Not sure what condition they're in just yet...

Kevlar, huh?

Thanks again!

 

[Demonracer]

Those look similar to the Tractor Supply straps that I had (cheap). Search Kevlar reinforced axle straps and tie downs. They are a bit salty compared to the Harbor Freight/Tractor Supply, but are worth the peace of mind knowing that you won't look in the mirrors and see a strap flapping in the wind! LMAO

 

[JDMopar]

If the new to you trailer was built in the last 10 or 15 years, it probably has brakes on both axles and a break away system on it. If it doesn't, adding brakes to it will be easy. Given that the roads are probably salted a lot in winter where you live, you'd be better off just buying loaded backing plate assemblies to replace your brakes anyway. I do that even where I live. The cost difference between brake shoes and hardware, vs shiny new assemblies is not enough to even fight brake springs....let alone crud and rust.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I like those d-rings on the outside of the frame. On the trailer I just bought yesterday the d-rings are welded to the deck, as the PO used wheel straps to hold his open wheel racer down. But for all of my uses, I'd have to run over them when loading a vehicle, and while I'm sure I could do that w/o a problem, it just doesn't seem right to me for some reason, so I'll cut them off and either move them, or replace them with new.

Nice looking trailer, by the way!

If you look at the trailers there are Larger ratchets On each front corner as used on tractor trailers. There are also 2 in the center of the back. We welded 6 ft chains on them and they are tie downs built in.

The ramps slide out and are held in with John Deere mower deck attachment clips. If you look at the trailer next to it we copied it and extended the deck to the tail lights. The red trailer is a triquest I bought new in 1995. It had the tie downs on it when I bought it. We copied them.

We also upgraded the axles from 5 lug 15's to 6 lug 17's. 7000 gvw to 12000 gvw.


GVW's is the most important. Trailer with winch and chains plus the cargo or car usually went over 7000. Stopped once leaving Carlisle with the red trailer loaded. The fine was ridiculous . We have 6 open trailers the biggest is 22000 40 ft goose neck and a 14000 dump we built. Getting plates requires enhanced inspection for special construction title.

 

[TT5.9mag]

I know you already bought one but I’ll add this for reference. My 19’ Carson dove tail car hauler is 82” between the fenders. Congrats on the purchase. Now go buy more cars and put them on it!!

 

[Msmith3054]

Dove tail and 6 foot slide out ramps. Deck the same width as the outside of the fenders front and rear so you can work on the car on the trailer. The trailer can also haul a dual wheel truck. Fenders lift off to open doors on low car. Fiberglass shield on front to protect what you are hauling. The trailer deck is 26 foot. We copied it from the red one next to it Just made the deck longer and wider.

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Where did you get the fiberglass shield? I need one for my trailer.

 

[ProjectBazza]

Well, now! This certainly must have been, uh, “interesting”, stopping with a load….

Picture of the backside of one of the LH hubs (typical of both):

And a typical picture of the backside of the RH hubs:

WTF???

 

[red67gts]

I would be afraid of the frame with rust We just don't see that here in Alabama, Joe

 

[ProjectBazza]

I would be afraid of the frame with rust We just don't see that here in Alabama, Joe

Frame is still solid.

But with brakes on only one side….

 

[TT5.9mag]

Meh, trailer brakes are over rated

 

[Wvbuzzmaster]

Having bought and rebuilt several trailers I hope you didn’t pay over $1000 for that trailer because to replace all wheels tires and brakes you are going to spend about $1000. With 5x5 bolt pattern it is not standard trailer 5x4.5 so don’t expect to buy a spare at a local tractor supply if you have an issue. Also, the bearing buddies you speak of is a function of the spindle being drilled for a grease zerk, and without that no bearing buddies. You would need to replace the axles at that point, which would be more cost effective. By now you are about $1500. Sorry to bust your bubble, cause I like a good trailer project but that one I saw rust holes in that “solid” frame… so I have concerns for you… and I replaced all but the frame on my car trailer for $1500, but the frame was solid and the trailer was bought for $1000 by a friend and and given to me to repair, then keep. At the time $3500 up was (and still is) the going rate for good car trailers, so it was worth it to refurbish. I fear you jumped the gun by not crawling under it before purchase.

 

[ProjectBazza]

Meh, trailer brakes are over rated

That’s what the previous owner must have thought!

 

[ProjectBazza]

Having bought and rebuilt several trailers I hope you didn’t pay over $1000 for that trailer because to replace all wheels tires and brakes you are going to spend about $1000. With 5x5 bolt pattern it is not standard trailer 5x4.5 so don’t expect to buy a spare at a local tractor supply if you have an issue. Also, the bearing buddies you speak of is a function of the spindle being drilled for a grease zerk, and without that no bearing buddies. You would need to replace the axles at that point, which would be more cost effective. By now you are about $1500. Sorry to bust your bubble, cause I like a good trailer project but that one I saw rust holes in that “solid” frame… so I have concerns for you… and I replaced all but the frame on my car trailer for $1500, but the frame was solid and the trailer was bought for $1000 by a friend and and given to me to repair, then keep. At the time $3500 up was (and still is) the going rate for good car trailers, so it was worth it to refurbish. I fear you jumped the gun by not crawling under it before purchase.

When I saw this I poked around the entire frame this afternoon, and while it may look a little ugly in those pictures, there really aren’t any “rust holes”, or even any thin and/or soft spots in the frame. But there are a number of holes drilled through it that have started to grow, or maybe get a little rough around the edges a bit….

I was planning on replacing the brakes anyway, so that’s already been accounted for.

The only real surprise I’ve found so far is the wiring. The lights do work, but for the life of me I don’t know how!

 

[Swinger 340]

I'll try to keep this short. I'm looking for a used trailer/hauler, and I found this one:

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Seller states right in the Listing: "...works great for cars...but fenders are a bit narrow for a full size pickup." But no dimensions were given in the Listing....

So I reached out to him, and he responded back with a dimension of 81" between the fenders (they're selling the house and have moved out, so he asked his neighbor to get this for me).

"That's great!", I'm thinking, as U-Haul trailers are 79" between the fenders, and I've used them quite a few times in the past.

So I drove out there this morning (a 1-1/2 hour trip), and his neighbor must be an absolute idiot, as here's the inside width dimension I get:

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No idea where the neighbor got 81"...from anywhere or anything!

So here's the ask: Those of you with trailers, what is your "inside width dimension", and what do you haul with it?

I'm curious about this because I assume moving cars around would be ok, but I'd also like to move some 1/2 ton trucks every now and then, and this 75-3/4" dimension is "right there" on two of my trucks (depends on the tires), and I'm wondering what others here have on their trailers so I can decide whether to grab this one (if that dimension is a "standard"), or if I should hold-off and keep looking.

Thanks!

Jim

He is probably lying to his wife or girlfriend also.

 

[Swinger 340]

When I saw this I poked around the entire frame this afternoon, and while it may look a little ugly in those pictures, there really aren’t any “rust holes”, or even any thin and/or soft spots in the frame. But there are a number of holes drilled through it that have started to grow, or maybe get a little rough around the edges a bit….

I was planning on replacing the brakes anyway, so that’s already been accounted for.

The only real surprise I’ve found so far is the wiring. The lights do work, but for the life of me I don’t know how!

As long as the axles are still in good condition, I'll remove them, sand blast and paint them heavy. May do the same to the frame. A little rust neutralizer my help.