69413valiant
Well-Known Member
Looking for a 3500-4000 stall converter for my 440. What does everyone run these days? Not looking for tci or b&m
Looking for a 3500-4000 stall converter
- Thread starter 69413valiant
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fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
There are a lot of good converters. Dynamic, PTC, Coan, ATI, Ultimate, just to name a few. The last 2 converters I used were PTC and I have had good luck with them and the price wasn't too bad. Getting ready to install a new 904 with a 9-1/2 PTC spec'd to stall 3500 with my combo. Price was $500 to the door and they had it to me in 5 days.
Tracy, that's a screaming deal, for the technology involved.
I agree, that's a hell of a deal! If I was gonna run an off the shelf convertor (and I'm not), I would probably go with something like this convertor from Hughes. But at $536 I would go with the one Tracy mentioned above. I'm assuming that they took down all the info about his build and matched it to his intended usage?
tekslk
Well-Known Member
When something seams too cheap I question why? Sounds good.
69413valiant
Well-Known Member
Seems a lot of people like PTC after also searching old posts. Going to call them on Monday
stroked340
Well-Known Member
Ultimate Converter..i wouldn't use anything else....
Not everyone...
SoulSurvivor
Well-Known Member
cracked,
I respect your opinion. What would you suggest for a .040 340, 10.3-1 KB pistons, RPM airgap, Comp cams xe268 with comp cams rocker roller assembly, 800cfm edelbrock performer carb, a905 with a Transgo shift kit, and 3:91 suregrip with MT, drag radials. The car is mostly set up for 1/4 mile blasts. The car currently has a Hughes 3200 stall in it now. It seems to work fine.
I respect your opinion. What would you suggest for a .040 340, 10.3-1 KB pistons, RPM airgap, Comp cams xe268 with comp cams rocker roller assembly, 800cfm edelbrock performer carb, a905 with a Transgo shift kit, and 3:91 suregrip with MT, drag radials. The car is mostly set up for 1/4 mile blasts. The car currently has a Hughes 3200 stall in it now. It seems to work fine.
You could put more converter in it if you wanted too.
Does the 3200 really stall 3200? I know that behind a 340-360 SB, the 10" hughes 3500 units I've had never stalled the advertised rate. Most were ~500 rpm low. The closest was a 10" behind a 408 and it was still tight about 200 rpm.
If you want something that will work better, have a custom unit built. Primarily 1/4 mile hits, have a tight 8" unit built. You'll be in close to $1K Even with the smallish camshaft a 4000+ stall will pick the car up as long as it's efficient up top.
IIRC, your car runs pretty strong for the build.
Does the 3200 really stall 3200? I know that behind a 340-360 SB, the 10" hughes 3500 units I've had never stalled the advertised rate. Most were ~500 rpm low. The closest was a 10" behind a 408 and it was still tight about 200 rpm.
If you want something that will work better, have a custom unit built. Primarily 1/4 mile hits, have a tight 8" unit built. You'll be in close to $1K Even with the smallish camshaft a 4000+ stall will pick the car up as long as it's efficient up top.
IIRC, your car runs pretty strong for the build.
SoulSurvivor
Well-Known Member
The top end at 1/4 mile is still pulling due to the 800cfm carb. Don't want the engine starving for fuel at 6000rpm.
I don't think my Hughes converter is stalling at 3200rpm. my guess it closer to 2800. At least that's what I feel.
The reason I asked is because I am pondering installing more cam.
If I had to do it all over again I would have stroked a 360 but I got the 340 from intake to pan for $200. It came out of a '70 Duster.
I like seeing A bodies running low to mid 11s at 120+. With the emphasis on plus.
Even if you got it to a true 3500, it would likely pick it up a bunch.
What's it run now for et/mph along with weight?
I forgot the heads you had on it or any work to them? If you have a dyno sheet showing peak tq and hp rpm levels that would help whoever built the converter.
SoulSurvivor
Well-Known Member
At Fontana the best it ran was 11:98@115. Then it started to get warm and it ran 12:02s the rest of the day. The rear seat was removed as well as the spare. It had about three gallons of fuel and the drag radials has 20lbs of air. I plan on swapping the bumpers with fiberglass as well as the hood to lighten the car up a bit.
Best bet is the car is around 3000lbs?
The heads are the 916 J heads 2.02-1.60('69 date code) and my machine shop really cleaned them up nice. They did a 30-45-60 degree three-angle valve job. He also matched the RPM intake runners with the heads and polished both the heads and intake.
I do have a a dyno sheet but it is a engine dyno. I wanted to make sure all my money spent didn't go to waste after the engine was in the car.
The only thing good that came out of the dyno session was that it showed 410hp and 412 ftlbs of torque. And it started first time with one turn of the starter. Oh..and I learned my MP valve covers were interfering with the rockers. The baffles were to low so I purchased a set of Arrington valve covers to clear the rocker assemby.
When I took the car to my friend who has been tuning Mopar muscle since 1974 for final tuning he said that everything was out of adjustment and who ever did the dyno could have done a better job. He also set that the dyno operator was a Chevy person. I don't know how he knew that but he was right.
After he finished his magic with the MSD distributor(got one of those really nice HEI MSD distrutors)advance settings, and re-jetting of the carburator the car was so fast. The gears help and the car runs really good.
So who is the company that will build the 8" converter?
I'd call Lenny at ultimate, sean at Dynamic, ATI or A-1 for a converter. You could throw Paul at Turbo Action in there as well. I know there are many here that have been happy with the company in Alabama, I'm not one of them. Seen too many that have just not worked as well as others. Watched a friend kill a ton of converters and transmissions trying their stuff. Put an ATI in and no problems after that.
Engine dyno sheet is what you want. Chassis dyno's, blah...
Look at RPM the engine made max TQ. You want a converter right in that range. If you can get an efficient 9.5" around there, that will save you some money!
They must have done some port work on the heads, most builds like that and stock heads clock in around 350hp 380-400tq. It's definitely a great runner pulling 115mph. Try to scale it with you in it next time to verify.
Engine dyno sheet is what you want. Chassis dyno's, blah...
Look at RPM the engine made max TQ. You want a converter right in that range. If you can get an efficient 9.5" around there, that will save you some money!
They must have done some port work on the heads, most builds like that and stock heads clock in around 350hp 380-400tq. It's definitely a great runner pulling 115mph. Try to scale it with you in it next time to verify.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I thought so. Forgot to mention it has a billet snout too which I feel is the only way to go for a 904 trans
Yep, had to give them a full run down of everything about my car.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Look up FTI converters. They offer quality features like anti ballooning and 700 horsepower rating! I ordered one for my dart sport in the 3400-3600 stall range. Should shoot outta the hole like a bottle rocket on Red Bull and Viagra!! Ja-Ja!
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