prodart340
Well-Known Member
I have a 74 swinger that is pro street. it's heading for the alignment this coming week and I'd like some numbers for caster,camber, and toe,,,,,any pros out there with real world set ups. thanx ahead of time
looking for "real" street worthy alignment specs???help
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LJS30
Well-Known Member
I know what you mean man. I just can't seem to find a shop that really knows what they are doing when it comes to wheel alignment.
demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
These are the numbers I had my alignment guy set the Demon to.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/susp/26.html
Terry
ramcharger
Dismember
Demon,
Is there such thing as too much caster on our cars? Also, could an improvement be seen by increasing camber on a sometime roadrace car to keep more rubber on the road when turning forces?
Is there such thing as too much caster on our cars? Also, could an improvement be seen by increasing camber on a sometime roadrace car to keep more rubber on the road when turning forces?
demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
Now ya got me thinking. Here's another article for ya eh. http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html
Terry
ramcharger
Dismember
Great article Demon. When I said increasing camber, I did mean negative camber. That's what get for marrying a SCCA road racer. Her old man knows his poop too, he built the cars for her, lol!
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
There's such a thing as too much camber (+/-) with a radial tire. I don't know what it is, but have experienced on two other cars with 65 & 75 profile tires. Both had a negative camber problem that wore out the inside of the tire prematurely.
Come to think of it, most of the NASCAR guys blow the right front and nudge the outside wall because of running a racing radial with too much negative camber.
Come to think of it, most of the NASCAR guys blow the right front and nudge the outside wall because of running a racing radial with too much negative camber.
socal_65dartgt
Well-Known Member
Just got mine aligned from one of the knowledgeable shops (mopar guy to boot)
Got it dialed in at + 5 degrees caster, -.5 degrees camber, 1/16 toe-in. Very stable and since I have powersteering, no problems with the high caster. I was very surprised that I could get so much on regular moog bushings and 73-76 disc upper control arms.
Handles great at speed. Running 205/50-15 front and 225/60/15 on the back on a completely rebuilt front suspension.
Got it dialed in at + 5 degrees caster, -.5 degrees camber, 1/16 toe-in. Very stable and since I have powersteering, no problems with the high caster. I was very surprised that I could get so much on regular moog bushings and 73-76 disc upper control arms.
Handles great at speed. Running 205/50-15 front and 225/60/15 on the back on a completely rebuilt front suspension.
redfastback
Don't ask me... my garage is empty
yep that sounds like a great setup. .5 negative camber is perfect for street driving. any more is bad tire wear but great for road racing. above 5 degrees positive caster you get poor steering wheel return.
Sorry to say but computerized alignment machines have made it too easy.
As long as there's a spec in the computer the tech can align anything. I worked at a GM dealer for 13 years and our alignment tech did most cars without specs. He knew what worked and the cars drove like a dream and didn't wear tires. When I went to tech school back in the 70's we would align
a car and three of us would go for a test drive. The driver would let go of the wheel at highway speeds and the instructor could steer the car from the back seat by setting on the right or left side of center.
Caster will make the car track straight, the closer to 0 the more you have to steer it. Camber adjustment is used to make up for road crown and banking on race track turns. Toe-in is just that. Usually toe is set slightly 'in' at the front because the tires want to push out as the car drives down the road.
Camber and toe are tire wearing angles. Caster and camber will cause the car to pull if set incorrectly. Any setting if a mile off will cause any problem.
toolmanmike
As long as there's a spec in the computer the tech can align anything. I worked at a GM dealer for 13 years and our alignment tech did most cars without specs. He knew what worked and the cars drove like a dream and didn't wear tires. When I went to tech school back in the 70's we would align
a car and three of us would go for a test drive. The driver would let go of the wheel at highway speeds and the instructor could steer the car from the back seat by setting on the right or left side of center.
Caster will make the car track straight, the closer to 0 the more you have to steer it. Camber adjustment is used to make up for road crown and banking on race track turns. Toe-in is just that. Usually toe is set slightly 'in' at the front because the tires want to push out as the car drives down the road.
Camber and toe are tire wearing angles. Caster and camber will cause the car to pull if set incorrectly. Any setting if a mile off will cause any problem.
toolmanmike
ramcharger
Dismember
Great information Red and socal. Looking forward to getting the Duster done one of these days and this will get filed away.
375inStroke
Well-Known Member
Also, the more caster you have, the more camber change you get as you turn the wheel. Think of how a chopper motorcycle front tire, with excessive positive camber, leans into the direction you turn the handle bars.
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