Looking into doing my first paint job next year.

[SixPaksRule]

I am trained in the art of auto body repair and painting, been practicing for decades.
Great advice on the health hazards. Ventilation, full face respirator or fresh air supply etc.
Check out bondo Billy. Guy can paint, no nonsense. Many on the tube need to practice better hazard protection. Painter's poison is no joke.

Air supply needs to be clean and dry- the air intake for the compressor must not be in the shop as it pulls the fumes from the shop and contaminates the air in the compressor. The rule of thumb is 24 feet between the output of the compressor and the hose connection. Single stage non metallic paints do not require base coat clear coat and look better when done. A well known restoration shop once told me single stage is for painters, base coat clear coat is for applicators.

 

[Jim Kueneman]

A well known restoration shop once told me single stage is for painters, base coat clear coat is for applicators.

Completely agree with that. base/clear is way more forgiving to get a great job but requires more work. I tell people I am a crappy painter but a great sander/buffer.

 

[mgoblue9798]

I'm in the research stage of painting my 1973 Duster next year. I've done all sorts of mechanical work on my old Mopars over the years, but nearly nothing for paint and body. So it's all new to me.

The body has a few small rust spots, but overall is a very solid car. I know someone who could do a great job and I've seen his metal fabrication work, but he won't be cheap.

This will be no show car, just a half decent driver quality paint job. The phrase to keep in mind is "ALMOST AS GOOD AND A WHOLE LOT CHEAPER".

Here's what I have figured out so far for what I think I want to do.

Color - 1971 EL5 Butterscotch. Single stage solid enamel. I don't want any kind of base / clear, and it's not a factory metallic color. I don't know if urethane would be easier for a first timer to spray.

I could pay for a real paint job, but first of all, I don't want to, and second, that's not what this car is for, plus I don't want to have to worry too much about the paint getting marked up or keyed on a $20,000 paint and body job.

I've been watching some videos on the subject, and I have a fair idea of what needs to be done. But actually doing it is another thing. A few metal patches need made and welded in. Are quarter panel patch panels made for a '73-'76 Duster? I don't want to order a full quarter panel and cut it up.

Any suggestions on a brand and type of paint? I can get hold of a stand up air compressor, add a filter dryer, and get the best paint spray gun on the shelf at Harbor Freight, or ebay used.

Need to figure lots of stuff out.

I have 40 years in the business in one way or another. Forget regular enamel paint. Get it mixed in single stage urethane since you dont want to use clear coat.

If it were my car I would choose base/clear as it is a hell of a lot easier to get a good color match if something were to happen to it later.

If not at least get extra single stage mixed at the same time to put up in case you need it later.

Need to make sure your compressor is up to the task and can put out the required CFM's at the right pressure. That number will depend on the spray gun you choose.

I would check out paint from Revolt or from Tamco. High end quality paint for a much cheaper price than PPG or Axalta/Dupont. They are not the cheapest, but are the best bang for the buck for real quality stuff that will last.

 

[volaredon]

Last car I painted was a 75 cordoba in about 1987. I don't think centari exists anymore.
That said I have the body for my 83 D250 in a local shop. I have the frame At home on my lift as I blasted and painted that and am putting all brand new suspension/brakes and fuel/brake lines on myself. I delivered them a complete sandblasted bare body all in pieces, with mostly sheet metal from states that don't (didn't) use salt on roads and I was told $10 grand and that's with me doing the assembly.
This is nothing special as far as color choice, no 2 tone, no fade out etc. I asked for early 1980s Dodge truck forest green, code dt7947.

 

[barbee6043]

Shooting top coats require skill.
The prep is always the key as is always stressed, and that takes skill (knowledge), and much work!!!!
There are reasons a spray booth will give better results than .......
But, a good painter can get just as good results in a garage. Been there and seen it in different garage and painters over the decades.....but it took then many years to learn the tricks!!! and that was before bc/cc !

Solid, non metallic, I would go with a good single stage. Will the car be kept inside our out in the sun? Want affordable? YOU better learn to do the body work!!!! IF you do and get to the primer stages, block guide coat and if perfect, continue on! With plenty of practice on junk metal!

And..... how many old classics out there actually deserve a $10,000-150,00 and up body/paint job!???

How many guys will drive such!?????? If you don't drive it, then WHY!?????

 

[HPP]

I'm in the middle of doing this now. Its slow and tedious work. My current job also includes body work along the way, so it may not get color until next year, but we'll see. I also have some prior experience working in a sign shop where we painted large overhead signs for gas stations, so it's not exactly my first time behind the gun. I hung cheap tarps from the garage ceiling and put a couple of box fans with filters on them to push air for my improvised spray booth.

Last winter was rust repair, straightening and sanding, prime and paint of engine bay. Took all winter to do repairs and prep and then I sprayed it in the spring. Turned out nice, IMO, and I'll continue with the rest of the car.

Is it expensive, somewhat but that is relative. $20k+ for a pro job plus body work buys a lot of supplies. With required panel replacement and straightening, a pro job on my car would probably touch $50k, so that's some serious coin for a fun but not a show car. My fresh air supply compressor and mask system alone was $2500 and that has been the single biggest expense, but as others have said, coating your lungs in urethane isn't something I want to experience. I had a selection of basic body tools, but I've picked up a few more specialized pieces through this process along with a decent entry level spray gun set.

Sure, its only one car, and maybe I'll end up dropping $10k into it, but that still money ahead compared to subbing it out. I have had my son help me along the way. As a result of that, we also did a repaint on the front half of his Jeep and got a near perfect match to the factory. We had a bit more orange peel in the clear, but some sanding and buffing fixed that. He has also painted a replacement front fascia for one of his friend's cars, so having the tools around is actually getting more use than I expected.

 

[70SwingerGuy]

Shooting top coats require skill.

100% Maybe not so much in a backyard scenario, but try being a painter in a bodyshop that deals primarily with insurance jobs, there is NO time allowed to cut and polish every job so you better make sure you get your clear coat laying properly and as clean as possible, and thats after you make sure you have a good colormatch, AND getting your metallics to lay evenly, AND getting an invisible blend.
Even Will from GYC is just an applicator, he could never cut it in a regular bodyshop without some revamping of his skillset.

0The prep is always the key as is always stressed, and that takes skill (knowledge), and much work!!!!

I always said preppers werent given enough credit in the paint dept, they will make or break the final outcome of the job; painters tend to get all the glory, but neither one can ensure a good quality job without the other.

There are reasons a spray booth will give better results than .......

Again, totally agree

But, a good painter can get just as good results in a garage. Been there and seen it in different garage and painters over the decades.....but it took then many years to learn the tricks!!! and that was before bc/cc !

Ive only ever shot one vehicle in a garage, single stage white, ugh, swore Id never do it again.

Solid, non metallic, I would go with a good single stage.

Yup, and if you really want some balls in your paint, throw a couple of clear over top of the SS, after allowing proper flashtime(depending on paint system), or wetsanding the SS after fully cured and then clearing. Did that to my dads black 81 Z28. wow, did that ever look wet and deep.