Lost reverse, need help finding it. 727

Discussion in 'Transmission and Drivetrain Tech' started by Mopower71, Jun 26, 2018.

  1. fishy68

    fishy68 Tyr Fryr's Inc. FABO Gold Member

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    BTW For a performance 727 it's always a good idea to toss the little spring on the servo piston and shim it solid.
     
  2. '63GT

    '63GT Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to chime in, if I may... and I KNOW I'll offend someone here..
    It's your converter. I have the same gear/tire combo as you and run 122mph at 6400 rpm in the heat. Converter is nothing special.. just a $600 TurboAction S-800 med.
    I have seen this more times than I'd like to count... unless it's broke, you've got a junk converter. converter is Sooooooo inefficient, you loose all your ET in the back half cause the car don't mile-an-hour good.
    PLEASE, save this scenario for the phord/shivy guys.. I beg you.
    Dynamic Converters is just down the road from you. They'll treat you right, have decades worth of experience, and you'll think you added 100 more hp.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Mopower71

      Mopower71 Speed Demon

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      What is the rest of your combo.
      What stall is the converter you have.
      Is that their 11" converter
       
    • '63GT

      '63GT Well-Known Member

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      No, it's classified as a 10". but Paul @ Turbo Action will tell you, it's actually a 10 1/2"
      It flashes in the 4200 rpm range, but it only has about 5% loss. Yours is roughly 15% that's why your trap speed is down. just not coupled good. You could expect as much as 4 tenths and 4 mph with the right converter. seen it happen before.
      My combo? 3140# Dart, 12.34 CR 360, ported procomps, W5 int, .638/.656, 255/260 .050 solid, self done 650dp, ( trying to get a 950 working now) Dougs 450 headers, 3" Exh, 904, MRVB, TA 10", 4.11's/spool, MT 295's
      last pass: 11.103 @ 121.52 and an abysmal 1.6 60'. at 1625 DA
      I've got a Lupo 9 1/2 in now. I'm looking forward to my next time slip.
       
    • Mopower71

      Mopower71 Speed Demon

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      Trailbeast have you installed one of the super servos?
      I can't seem to get the seal to slide past the retaining ring groove. Without the seal it slides right in.
      I don't see how its even going to slide in with the stabilizing ring on it.
      Any suggestions?
      First I tried living it with transmission fluid, then I tried petolum jelly, as stated in one of the rebuild videos.
       
    • TrailBeast

      TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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      Put a hose clamp around the seal and tighten up pretty good, then stick it in the freezer for 20 min or so.
      Be ready to put in in AS SOON as it comes out of the freezer.
       
    • threewood

      threewood Well-Known Member

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      Freezing it is a good trick. I have also used a very thin feeler gauge to fold the seal down as I push the servo in. Slide the feeler around the bore as you give it a little pressure.
       
    • Mopower71

      Mopower71 Speed Demon

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      Thanks trailbeast, I will give that a try
       
    • Mopower71

      Mopower71 Speed Demon

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      Thats a good idea also. Not sure it would work with the stabilizing ring
       
    • CudaFactHackJob

      CudaFactHackJob Well-Known Member

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      My 2 cents; l stick it all the way down into the bore sideways, then start to straighten it up, all the while making sure it has gentle contact with the bottom, and maybe sometimes give it a little twist as it levels off. Then l pull it halfway out, cover the port with my thumb and try to push it in to pressure test it.
       
    • Mopower71

      Mopower71 Speed Demon

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      This ones not going in sideways K029_web.jpg K029_web.jpg
       
    • CudaFactHackJob

      CudaFactHackJob Well-Known Member

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      That's how Chrysler should have made all their L/R servo pistons. On that one, I would use a trick I learned from what I found in a lot of overhaul kits. Some of them provide a green plastic circle about five inches in diameter to help roll the edge of the lip seals in. Just cut a smaller circle of plastic out of a milk carton or anti-freeze jug; about 3" in diameter and roll it around the servo bore; using gentle pressure on the piston, until it clears the groove. I used to use a feeler gauge, but it's pretty easy to slice the lip. Some pistons; like the direct clutch one; has that flange that makes it so you can't get to the seal edge. On that one the freeze method works great. I put a big rubber band over them.