Lousy brakes

[philthyphil]

Bought car with all the parts to finish installing disc fronts from donor 74 Dart. Purchased new calipers and pads and finished install, had reasonably good brakes. Car sets a lot so after some years it all at once started locking up the rears. Checked the rears, good drums, shoes, W/C etc. and adjusted up etc. Replaced front rotors, rubber hoses with stainless (Aeorquip) lines, pads and NEW castings calipers (I think Cardone). Pedal got worse, less braking power overall. Then installed SSBC adjustable prop valve, got rid of rear lockup but still had soft, low pedal. Next was a 15/16 Master, went around car 3 times bleeding before I got any kind of pedal. Still mushy, low, needs pumping 4-5 times to get anything, tried a panic stop and it just coasted to a slow stop. Will a residual pressure valve help? ready to rebuild the original calipers and reinstall those. Car is 65 Barrcuda, 318, 4 speed, 8 3/4 with 10 inch rears. I HAVE ABOUT HAD IT!!!!!!!!!!

 

[dano]

Did you bench bleed the maser cylinder?

 

[ricks70dart]

Make sure you have the calipers on the correct sides,They will go either way but the bleed ports are not fully on top therefor not able to remove all the air in the system.

 

[philthyphil]

Yes and again on the car before hooking up the lines, I did not mention I purchased from JEGS, I think it nay be sourced from Chim-na (SHIVER--SHIVER). Thanks for all responses I'm desparate

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

Sounds like the master still has air in it. Edit: what kind of brake fluid are you using? Brakes are hydraulic so you should not need to pump them up unless there is air. I once had a defective brand new master. Poured two large bottles thru the system and still could not get it bled. Not saying that is your problem. Do you have someone helping you do the MC bleed? How are you bleeding the MC? I use the OE style metal tubes style and I cut the tubes and put plastic tubing over them and down into the fluid. I can then see bubbles and slowly push the brake pedal back and forth until all the air is out. You need to push the pedal all the way down with long, slow strokes. Only after ensuring no air is in there should you reconnect the lines and bleed at each wheel. If you're using an iron MC, it has compensating ports in the bottom. If you slowly pump the pedal and see silver in the port that means there is still air trapped.

 

[sam69sat]

Have you looked at the rear brake lines for the rear brake lockup issue?

 

[philthyphil]

thanks ricks70duster340 and sam69sat. In response, I talked to Jegs and they said M/C is a Right Stuff product and they have very few quality issues, anyway the video was helpful but would have been more so
before I had it happen to both my 07 300c and my 04 Ram1500. I' try bleeding the master by it self on the car (again) and then around the car with the lines hooked up. I may be able to borrow a pressure bleeder from a friend if I get to the city.

 

[philthyphil]

I still don't quite trust the A1CARDONE calipers,they were brand new castings and I'm sure made in China, so I have tons of caliper cores and 1 pair of rebuild kits. those same calipers go all the way up to my 87 5thAve as do the rotors. just have to get the energy to get to it. thanks for guys pitching in with ideas!!